Back to 2024 Tesla Model Y

2024 TESLA MODEL Y

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
5 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs87Labor363Torque4119Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls5
ev-cooling

EV Coolant Lines

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
9
Steps
13

Replacement of EV coolant lines on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. This procedure covers low-voltage coolant hoses and lines that are NOT part of the HV battery thermal loop, octovalve, or heat pump assembly — those require Tesla-certified service.

Warnings

⚠️If the coolant line you are replacing connects to the HV battery pack, octovalve, superbottle, or heat pump assembly, STOP. Those circuits require Tesla Toolbox software to safely depressurize and refill — this procedure does NOT cover them.
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. Orange = high voltage and potentially lethal even with the 12V disconnected.
Tesla uses G-48 (HOAT) coolant. Do not substitute with conventional green/IAT or universal coolant — incompatible chemistry will damage the cooling system and may void warranty.
The Model Y has an aluminum-intensive body and substructure. Do not strike components with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or soft-face mallet only.
ℹ️Tesla now recommends battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi. Document the service date and mileage in the owner's records.

Tools required

Metric socket set (8-19mm)Essential
Torque wrench (5-30 Nm range)Essential
Hose clamp pliersEssential
Coolant catch pan (minimum 12 qt capacity)Essential
Vacuum coolant fill tool (Airlift-style)Essential
Trim removal tool set (plastic)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Shop towels and absorbent pads
Insulated gloves (1000V rated)

Parts

  • Replacement coolant line(s) — match OEM routing and fitting style × 1 — Tesla Model Y 2024 OEM coolant hose/line — verify exact part by VIN
  • Hose clamps (if spring-clamp style is replaced with worm-gear) × 4 — OEM-spec replacement clamps
  • O-rings / seals at quick-disconnect fittings × 2 — OEM-spec coolant fitting seals

Fluids

  • Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48) — 10 qt

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the rear seat / rear cargo area on 2024 Model Y). Refer to Tesla Service Manual for the exact access procedure on your build.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Verify the specific coolant line being replaced is part of the low-voltage / non-HV cooling path (e.g., front cooling loop accessory plumbing). If it routes into the octovalve, superbottle, heat pump, or battery pack, STOP — that work requires Tesla Toolbox.
  7. Allow the vehicle to cool fully — coolant system can retain pressure and heat for hours after driving or charging.
  8. Raise and securely support the vehicle on jack stands rated for the Model Y's curb weight. Use OEM-specified lift points only.
  9. Remove the front underbody/aero shield as needed to access coolant routing.
  10. Position a coolant catch pan beneath the work area before opening any fitting.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Identify and confirm the target coolant line
    Trace the failing or target coolant line end-to-end. Confirm it does NOT connect to the HV battery pack, octovalve, superbottle, or heat pump. If the line passes into any of these components, abort this procedure — Tesla Toolbox is required to safely service those circuits.
    ⚠️Battery thermal loop service is dealer-only. Do not proceed if the line ties into the octovalve or pack.
  2. 2
    Relieve cooling system pressure
    Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap to release any residual pressure. Re-seat the cap loosely while you work to reduce siphoning at disconnects.
    Even cool, the system can retain pressure. Open the cap with a shop towel and turn slowly.
  3. 3
    Drain coolant from the affected loop
    Position a clean catch pan under the lowest point of the loop being serviced. Loosen the lowest hose clamp on the target line and allow coolant to drain completely. Capture all fluid for proper disposal — G-48 coolant must not be mixed with other types or poured into storm drains.
  4. 4
    Remove protective covers and brackets
    Remove any plastic covers, splash shields, or routing brackets blocking access to the coolant line. Note the exact routing and any clip locations — take photos before removal to aid reassembly.
    Torque spec
    Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
    Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Disconnect electrical connectors near the work area
    If any low-voltage sensors (coolant temp, level, flow) are mounted on or near the line, carefully disconnect them. Press the locking tab fully — do not pry the connector body. Note any bolted ground or signal connections.
    Confirm 12V is disconnected before unplugging any sensor to avoid setting fault codes.
    Torque spec
    Connector Bolts7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
    Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Release hose clamps or quick-disconnect fittings
    Use hose clamp pliers to release spring clamps, or back off worm-gear clamps with a 7mm driver. For quick-disconnect fittings, depress the locking collar evenly and pull straight out — do not pry sideways or you will damage the fitting body.
    Quick-disconnects are plastic and brittle when cold. Warm them gently with shop heat if they resist.
  7. 7
    Remove the old coolant line
    Free the line from any remaining retainers and route it out of the chassis. Inspect the mating ports for debris, scoring, or damaged seal lands. Cap or plug open ports with clean lint-free material to prevent contamination.
  8. 8
    Compare old and new lines
    Lay the new line next to the old line. Confirm length, bend geometry, fitting types, and any integrated sensors or check valves match exactly. A mismatched part can cause poor flow or chafing failures.
  9. 9
    Install the new coolant line
    Lubricate new O-rings with clean coolant (never petroleum grease). Seat quick-disconnect fittings until you hear/feel a positive click and verify with a gentle pull-back test. For threaded fittings, start by hand to prevent cross-threading, then torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Secure clamps and routing
    Reinstall hose clamps at the OEM positions. Ensure the line follows its original routing — clear of suspension travel, steering components, and heat sources. Reinstall any clip retainers.
    Torque spec
    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reinstall brackets, sensors, and covers
    Reattach any line-mounting brackets, reconnect sensor connectors, and reinstall covers. Verify all connectors are fully latched.
    Torque spec
    Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
    Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
    Connector Bolts7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
    Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
    Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Vacuum-fill the cooling loop
    Connect a vacuum fill tool to the reservoir. Pull the system down to manufacturer-specified vacuum and verify it holds (no leaks). Then draw in fresh G-48 Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant. Vacuum filling is essential — gravity fill on a Tesla cooling system will leave airlocks.
    Use only Tesla-spec G-48 coolant. Mixing chemistries causes gel and pump damage.
  13. 13
    Top off and seat reservoir cap
    Top the reservoir to the COLD/MAX line. Reinstall the cap fully. Wipe down the area to make any future leaks easier to spot.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall any underbody aero shield using OEM fasteners — torque to OEM specification; refer to Tesla Service Manual.
  2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative last after positive). Close the access cover.
  4. Allow the vehicle's BMS/ECUs to wake and self-check for ~60 seconds before powering on.

Verification

  • Power on the vehicle. Check the touchscreen for any cooling system, battery thermal, or sensor faults. Resolve any DTCs before driving.
  • With the vehicle in P, run a Climate cycle (Defrost on max) and a brief Supercharger or DC-FC pre-conditioning request via the Trip planner to circulate coolant. Listen for gurgling — a sign of trapped air.
  • Inspect every disturbed fitting and clamp for weeping after 10–15 minutes of operation, then again after a short test drive.
  • Recheck reservoir level once cool — top up with G-48 only if needed.
  • Document service: Tesla now recommends battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi. Log the date, mileage, and coolant brand/lot for the owner's records.
  • If the vehicle is due, this is a good time to also verify brake fluid age (2-year interval) and cabin filter age (2-year interval).

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