Replace the front lower control arm on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The control arm bolts must be final-torqued at ride height with the vehicle's weight on the wheels to properly preload the bushings.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (LH or RH as required) × 1 — Tesla Model Y front LCA — confirm side and revision via VIN
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin for ball joint castle nut
• Control arm mounting bolts (if single-use per OEM) × 2 — Verify reuse policy — replace if specified by Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, access is under the front trunk (frunk) trim — refer to the Tesla Owner's Manual for exact location, as Model Y 12V location differs from Model 3.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Service Mode considerations aside — this job does not require Toolbox, but air suspension is N/A on Model Y (coil only).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Chock the rear wheels, raise the front of the vehicle at the Tesla-designated front jack points only, and support on jack stands. Never lift on the HV battery case.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the existing lower control arm, ball joint boot, bushings, and surrounding components (sway bar link, tie rod, axle boot). Photograph routing of any wiring or brake hose clips that pass near the control arm so you can reroute them identically on reassembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Locate the front sway bar end link where it connects near the control arm/strut area. Hold the stud with an Allen key to prevent spinning, and remove the nut. Swing the link clear of the work area.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut and discard it. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect threads and catch the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, remove the nut completely and lower the knuckle off the ball joint stud. Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a bungee or stand — do not let it hang by the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
   ⚠Do not damage the ball joint boot if reusing any related components. Avoid pickle-fork on a ball joint you intend to reuse.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove control arm-to-subframe bolts
   Locate the two inboard mounting bolts securing the lower control arm to the front subframe (front bushing bolt and rear bushing bolt). Support the control arm, then remove both bolts. Note bolt orientation and any washers/spacers for reinstallation.
   ⚠The aluminum subframe is easily marred. Do not pry against it with steel tools.
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe pockets. Compare the new arm side-by-side with the old one to confirm correct part, side (LH/RH), and bushing orientation before installing.
6. 6

   Install the new lower control arm (snug only)
   Position the new control arm into the subframe mounts. Install the inboard mounting bolts in the same orientation as removed and tighten only snug — do NOT final torque yet. Bushings must be torqued at ride height to avoid premature failure.
7. 7

   Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckle
   Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain.
   ⚠️A missing or reused cotter pin can allow the ball joint to back off — loss of steering control. Always use a new pin.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect the sway bar end link
   Reinstall the sway bar link nut, holding the stud with an Allen key to prevent rotation. Torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
   Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the suspension at normal ride height.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final-torque control arm bolts at ride height
    With the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels and suspension at ride height, final-torque both lower control arm-to-subframe bolts to specification. This is critical for proper bushing preload and longevity.
    ⚠If you cannot access the bolts at ride height with a torque wrench, use a drive-on ramp or alignment rack. Do NOT torque while suspension is drooping.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners are torqued and the new cotter pin is installed and bent.
2. Confirm brake hose, wheel speed sensor wiring, and any harness clips are seated in their original retainers and not contacting the control arm or tire.
3. Reconnect the 12V battery.
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle on the ground to confirm no binding or interference.
5. Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — do not drive long distances before alignment due to Model Y's tendency to wear tires rapidly when toe/camber are off.

Verification

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and during steering input.
• Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight; if off-center, alignment is required (expected after this repair regardless).
• Re-check control arm bolt torque after the first 100-200 miles, as bushings settle.
• Inspect tire wear at the next 6,250 mi rotation interval — Tesla's recommended rotation interval for Model Y due to high tire wear from instant torque and curb weight. Uneven inner-edge wear after this repair indicates alignment was not performed correctly.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, this is also a good opportunity to verify brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and inspect drive unit fluid service status (Tesla now recommends 12,500 mi initial then 25,000-50,000 mi intervals).

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