Replacement of a rear lower control arm (the long lateral toe/camber link assembly) on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The rear suspension uses a multi-link design with separate toe, camber, and trailing arm links — verify which link you are replacing before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear lower control arm assembly (specify link: toe, camber, or trailing — match by part number to your VIN) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear lower control arm for 2024 Model Y AWD
• Replacement control arm bolts (single-use if specified by Tesla service info) × 2 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is accessed by removing the rear trunk floor/scuff cover; disconnect the negative terminal and isolate it.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Break the rear wheel lug nuts loose with the vehicle on the ground.
8. Identify which rear lower link you are replacing (toe link, camber/lateral link, or trailing arm). Photograph the original arm in place before removal — alignment cam markings on adjustable links must be preserved as a starting reference.

Procedure

1. 1

   Raise and support the vehicle
   Lift the rear of the vehicle using only the Tesla-designated rear jacking points with proper pucks. Support the chassis on jack stands rated for the vehicle's curb weight. Never place a stand under the HV battery case or its perimeter rails outside of the marked lift points.
   ⚠️Improper jacking can crush the HV battery case. Use Tesla pucks at the marked lift points only.
2. 2

   Remove the rear wheel
   Remove the lug nuts and pull the rear wheel on the side being serviced. Set the wheel aside flat to protect the finish.
3. 3

   Mark adjustment positions
   If the link being replaced has an eccentric/cam alignment bolt at the inboard (subframe) end, paint-mark or scribe the cam washer position relative to the subframe before loosening anything. This preserves a baseline for the alignment shop and helps the car drive home without scrubbing tires.
4. 4

   Support the rear knuckle
   Place a floor jack with a wood block or rubber pad under the rear knuckle (hub carrier) and take up the suspension load. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the link is disconnected and protects the half-shaft inner CV joint from over-extension.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the half-shaft — overextension can damage the inner tripod CV.
5. 5

   Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the rear sway bar end link blocks access to the control arm being removed, unbolt the end link from the lower mount. Hold the stud with an Allen key on its internal hex while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the outboard control arm bolt
   Remove the nut and through-bolt securing the outboard end of the control arm to the rear knuckle. Tap the bolt out with a soft drift if needed; do not hammer the aluminum knuckle directly.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — strike only the bolt, never the casting.
7. 7

   Remove the inboard control arm bolt
   Remove the nut and through-bolt securing the inboard end of the control arm to the rear subframe. If equipped with an eccentric cam bolt, withdraw the cam washers and keep them with the bolt — they are reused (or replaced as a set per OEM specification).
8. 8

   Remove the control arm
   Maneuver the control arm out from between the subframe and knuckle. If the bushing sleeve is seized in the subframe ear, work the arm gently with a pry bar against a protected pivot — do not pry against the battery case or the subframe sealing surfaces.
9. 9

   Inspect adjacent components
   With the arm out, inspect the remaining rear suspension links, bushings, ball joints, the half-shaft boots, and the parking brake wiring routing for damage or wear. Now is the time to address anything marginal — access will not be this good again.
10. 10

    Install the new control arm
    Position the new arm between the subframe and knuckle. Insert the inboard bolt first (with cam washers in their original orientation if applicable), then the outboard bolt. Thread both nuts on by hand — do NOT torque yet.
11. 11

    Reconnect the sway bar end link if disconnected
    Reattach the sway bar end link to its lower mount. Hold the ball stud with an Allen key and tighten the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Snug the pivot bolts (do not final torque)
    Snug both control arm pivot bolts so the arm is captured but the bushing can still rotate slightly. Final torque is applied later, with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.
13. 13

    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts, then snug in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire contacts the ground and supports vehicle weight (or, preferably, drive the vehicle onto ramps so all four wheels are loaded at ride height).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque the control arm bolts at ride height
    With the suspension fully loaded at ride height, final-torque both inboard and outboard control arm pivot bolts. This is critical — torquing while the arm hangs will twist the bushing and shorten its life dramatically.
    ⚠If you cannot access the bolts with the wheels on the ground, use drive-on ramps or a drive-on lift. Do not skip this step.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Final-torque the wheel lugs
    With the wheel on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Re-check after 50 miles.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal and reinstall the trunk floor cover.
2. Close all doors, reintroduce the key, and allow the vehicle to wake and run its self-checks before driving.
3. Drive directly and slowly to an alignment shop — do not drive at highway speed on a freshly installed rear link until alignment is verified.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension warnings or chassis-related alerts on the center display after wake-up.
• Inspect the new control arm at both pivots for full bolt engagement and absence of bushing distortion.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed. Rear toe and camber on Model Y are tightly specced and the car will eat a set of rear tires in a few thousand miles if alignment is off — and Model Y already wears tires faster than typical due to weight and instant torque (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi).
• After 50 miles, re-check wheel lug torque and re-inspect the control arm bolts visually for any sign of movement or bushing displacement.
• Road-test for clunks over bumps, pull under braking, or off-center steering — any of these indicates incorrect torque sequence or alignment out of spec.

More procedures for this vehicle