Replacement of the rear subframe (cradle) bushings on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The rear subframe carries the rear drive unit, control arms, and sway bar, so this is a heavy, high-consequence suspension job requiring a transmission jack and proper subframe support.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear subframe bushings (OEM replacement set) × 4 — Tesla Model 3/Y rear subframe bushing — OEM specification
• Subframe-to-body mounting bolts (one-time-use stretch bolts if specified by Tesla Service Manual) × 4 — OEM specification — replace if TTY

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the electric parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and remove the frunk liner to access the 12V low-voltage battery. Disconnect the 12V negative terminal and isolate the cable. (2024 Model Y uses a low-voltage Li-ion 16V-class battery in the frunk area.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. The rear drive unit area contains orange HV cabling routed along the top of the subframe.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable under tension, an HV component you must disconnect, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Raise the vehicle on a 2-post or 4-post lift using Tesla's specified rear lift points (puck pads on the reinforced pinch-weld locations — never lift on the HV battery case).
7. Remove both rear wheels.
8. Remove the rear underbody aero shield / diffuser panel to expose the subframe mounting bolts.

Procedure

1. 1

   Diagnostic confirmation
   Before committing to bushing replacement, confirm the failure mode. Common Model Y rear subframe bushing symptoms: clunking on throttle on/off transitions, rear-end shimmy under hard cornering, visible cracking or separation of the rubber at the four subframe mount points, or rear toe that won't hold alignment. With the vehicle on a lift, have an assistant rock the rear drive unit fore/aft with a pry bar against the subframe while you watch each of the four mounts — any visible movement of the subframe relative to the body indicates a failed bushing. Replace all four as a set; never replace one in isolation.
2. 2

   Mark subframe position
   Using a paint marker, scribe a witness line at each of the four subframe-to-body mounting points, marking the subframe edge against the body. Also mark the subframe bolt head orientation. This is the only reference you'll have for re-centering the subframe on reinstall — incorrect positioning will throw rear thrust angle out and cause uneven tire wear.
3. 3

   Disconnect rear sway bar end links
   Locate the rear sway bar end links where they attach to the lower control arms. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut on each side. Swing the links clear of the sway bar.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect rear lower control arms from knuckle
   At each rear knuckle, remove the bolt securing the lower control arm (toe link and camber link) to the knuckle. Mark cam bolt positions before loosening so alignment can be approximated on reassembly. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the half-shaft.
   ⚠Do not let the rear knuckle hang from the half-shaft — internal CV joint damage will result. Support with a bungee or stand.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Inspect and document HV/coolant routing on top of subframe
   Before lowering the subframe, visually trace every orange HV cable, coolant hose, and low-voltage harness routed across the top of the subframe and rear drive unit. The subframe must be lowered ONLY enough to access the bushings — typically 4–6 inches. If full subframe removal would be required to press the bushings, this job exceeds the scope of this procedure and the bushings should be pressed in-situ with the subframe partially lowered, OR the job should be referred to a shop with HV-certified technicians who can disconnect the drive unit.
   ⚠️If any orange HV cable will become taut when the subframe is lowered, STOP. Do not proceed without HV training.
6. 6

   Support the subframe
   Position a transmission jack or subframe support table under the rear subframe so it cradles the structure evenly across both sides. Snug the jack up so it carries the subframe weight but does not lift the body off the lift arms.
7. 7

   Loosen the four subframe-to-body bolts
   Locate the four large subframe mounting bolts (one at each corner of the rear subframe, threading up into captive nuts in the body structure). Crack each bolt loose but do not remove yet. Verify the subframe is fully supported on the jack.
8. 8

   Lower the subframe to access bushings
   Slowly lower the transmission jack 4–6 inches — only enough to expose the bushing pockets in the subframe. Stop immediately if any HV cable, coolant line, or harness goes taut. Remove the four subframe bolts as the gap opens up. The bushings remain pressed into the subframe; the upper crush sleeve / washer stays with the body side.
   ⚠Lower in small increments and re-check HV cable tension at each increment.
9. 9

   Press out old bushings
   With the subframe accessible, use a sleeve-and-cup bushing tool (or a hydraulic press if the subframe is fully out) to press each of the four old bushings out of the subframe. Note the orientation of each bushing before removal — many subframe bushings are voided/directional and MUST be installed in the same orientation. Mark the orientation with a paint pen on the subframe before pressing out the first one.
   ⚠If the bushing has a voided (hollow) section, orientation matters. Installing rotated 90° will change ride compliance and can cause clunking.
10. 10

    Install new bushings
    Lubricate the bushing outer sleeve with a thin film of soapy water (NOT grease — grease can attack the rubber). Press each new bushing into the subframe pocket using the bushing tool, ensuring it seats fully and squarely against the shoulder. Match the orientation marks made during removal. Repeat for all four positions.
11. 11

    Raise subframe back into position
    Slowly raise the transmission jack to bring the subframe back up to the body. Align the bushing center holes with the body-side captive nuts. Use a tapered alignment punch through the bushing center if needed to draw the subframe into position. Verify your witness marks from Step 2 line up before installing bolts.
12. 12

    Install subframe-to-body bolts
    Install all four subframe mounting bolts (use new bolts if Tesla specifies one-time-use). Run them in by hand, then snug evenly in a cross pattern. Final torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the rear subframe-to-body torque value, as this spec is not in the verified data set for this procedure.
    ⚠Do not invent a torque value for the subframe-to-body bolts. These are critical structural fasteners — verify the spec in the Tesla Service Manual before final torque.
13. 13

    Reattach control arms to knuckles
    Reinstall the lower control arm / toe link / camber link bolts at each rear knuckle. Align cam bolts to the marks made during removal. Snug only — final torque happens with vehicle weight on the wheels.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reattach sway bar end links
    Reconnect both rear sway bar end links to the lower control arms. Hold the shaft with an Allen key and torque the nuts to spec.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Final torque under load
    Reinstall both rear wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the tires. With the suspension at ride height, perform the final torque on the rear control arm bolts — this is critical: torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure.
    ⚠Control arm bolts MUST be final-torqued with vehicle weight on the wheels. Torquing at full suspension droop will destroy the new bushings within months.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear underbody aero shield / diffuser panel.
2. Reconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery negative terminal in the frunk.
3. Reinstall the frunk liner.
4. Cycle the key fob into the vehicle and confirm the car wakes and powers up normally — no chassis or stability control errors on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Mandatory 4-wheel alignment immediately after this job. Rear toe, camber, and thrust angle must all be checked and adjusted — subframe disturbance always shifts rear geometry.
• Test drive at low speed first: listen for clunking from the rear over bumps and during throttle on/off transitions. A properly bushed subframe should be silent.
• At highway speed, the rear should track straight with no shimmy or wandering. Any wander indicates either a missed torque step (control arms torqued at droop) or misaligned subframe.
• Inspect the touchscreen for any chassis, ABS, traction control, or stability control fault messages. Any fault means a sensor harness was disturbed during the job — re-inspect routing.
• Recheck all subframe and control arm fasteners after the first 100 miles to confirm none have settled.
• Note: Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every 6,250 miles on Model Y due to high-torque wear patterns — log this alignment as the baseline for the next rotation.

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