suspension
Sway Bar Bushing - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Easy
Time
30 min
Tools
8
Steps
10
Replace the front sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The bushings sit in two brackets that clamp the sway bar to the front subframe; access is from underneath after removing the front underbody shield.
Warnings
⚠️Never lift this Model Y on the battery pack or pinch welds. Use only the designated jack pad locations with rubber pucks — the floor-mounted HV battery sits directly under the cabin.
⚠Do not pry against or strike any orange HV cabling, coolant lines, or the front subframe-mounted electronics. If you see an orange cable, stop.
⚠The front subframe and many suspension components are aluminum. Do not strike with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is needed.
ℹ️Sway bar bushings should be replaced as a pair (left and right). Mismatched old/new bushings cause uneven roll behavior.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (or 2-post lift)Essential
Torque wrench (10–80 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (incl. 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm)Essential
Metric Allen/hex key setEssential
T-handle Torx set (for underbody fasteners)Essential
Plastic trim/panel tool
Silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water
Tesla jack pad pucks (puck-style lift adapters)Essential
Parts
- Front sway bar bushings (pair, matched to bar diameter) × 2 — OEM Tesla Model Y front sway bar bushing — verify bar diameter before ordering
- Sway bar bracket bolts (replace if corroded or stretched) × 4 — OEM specification — reuse only if in good condition
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located under the rear cargo area / behind rear seat area on 2024 Model Y — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the exact access panel on your build).
- Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jack pad locations with rubber pucks. Support securely on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Remove the front underbody aero shield (multiple plastic push clips and Torx fasteners) to access the sway bar and brackets.
Procedure
- 1Inspect the work areaWith the underbody shield removed, locate the front sway bar running across the subframe behind the front wheels. Identify the two bushing brackets (one left, one right) clamping the bar to the subframe, and the two end links connecting the bar to the struts. Visually confirm there are no orange HV cables or coolant lines routed across your work path.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end links (one side)To allow the sway bar to drop and rotate for bushing access, disconnect at least one end link from the sway bar. Hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key and remove the nut. Pull the link stud out of the sway bar eye. You may leave the opposite end link connected to ease reinstallation alignment.⚠Do not use an impact gun on the end link nut without holding the shaft — you will spin and destroy the ball joint boot.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Support the sway barPlace a jack stand or transmission jack lightly under the sway bar so it does not drop unexpectedly when the bracket bolts are removed.
- 4Remove the bushing bracket boltsRemove the two bolts securing each sway bar bracket to the subframe (four bolts total). Note bolt orientation and length if they differ. Set the brackets aside.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 5Lower and access the bushingsCarefully lower the sway bar enough to slide the old bushings off, or to split them open if they are clamshell-style. Inspect the sway bar surface where the bushing rides — clean off old rubber residue and corrosion with a non-abrasive pad. The bar surface must be smooth so the new bushings seat correctly.⚠Do not over-flex the sway bar downward — excessive movement can stress the still-connected end link or strain brake hose / wiring routing nearby.
- 6Install new bushingsPosition new bushings on the sway bar in the same orientation as the originals (note any slit direction — typically the slit faces forward or upward per OEM design). Apply a silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water if specified by the bushing manufacturer; do NOT use petroleum grease, which will degrade the rubber.
- 7Reinstall bracketsPlace each bracket over its new bushing and start all four bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum subframe. Once all bolts are seated, snug them in an alternating pattern, then torque to specification.⚠Aluminum subframe threads strip easily — never start bolts with an impact gun.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 8Reconnect end linkReinsert the end link stud into the sway bar eye. Hold the stud with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall underbody shield and wheelsReinstall the front aero underbody shield with all original clips and fasteners — missing fasteners cause the panel to flap at highway speed and reduce range. Reinstall both front wheels hand-tight.ℹ️Replace any broken plastic push clips — the aero panel must seal flush for proper airflow.
- 10Lower and torque lug nutsLower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Close the access panel and reinstall any cargo trim removed for 12V access.
- Cycle the ignition (press brake pedal) and confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen — a 12V disconnect can briefly trigger TPMS, ABS, or driver-assist calibration messages that should clear after a short drive.
- If the touchscreen requests it, allow the vehicle to complete any self-calibration drive cycle for steering/ESP.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, push down hard on each front fender corner — the sway bar bushings should not creak or clunk.
- Test drive at low speed over a driveway transition or speed bump and listen for clunks from the front end. Properly seated bushings produce no noise.
- At highway speed, the steering should feel stable in crosswinds and during lane changes. Excessive body roll or vague turn-in suggests the bar is not properly clamped.
- After approximately 100 miles, recheck the sway bar bracket bolts and end link nuts to confirm they have remained at torque.
- While underneath, take the opportunity to note tire wear — Model Y front tires wear quickly; rotation is recommended every 6,250 miles.
- If the vehicle is approaching 2 years since the last brake fluid service, schedule that maintenance per Tesla's published interval.