suspension
Sway Bar Links - Front Pair
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
9
Steps
8
Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. Straightforward suspension job; the most common issue is corroded link studs spinning in their sockets when loosening.
Warnings
⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted directly under the cabin. ONLY lift this vehicle on Tesla-specified jack points using the proper puck adapter — lifting on the battery case can crack the pack and create a fire/electrocution hazard.
⚠Model Y aluminum suspension components: do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift only if persuasion is needed.
⚠Sway bar link studs frequently spin in their sockets when corroded. Use the hex/Allen feature on the stud end to hold it while loosening — do not let the impact gun spin the stud freely or you will damage the new link's seat.
ℹ️Front links are torqued unloaded (in the air); they are not control-arm bolts and do not require ride-height re-torque.
Tools required
Floor jack and 2x jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad adapters (puck) to protect battery caseEssential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (15mm, 18mm, 21mm)Essential
Metric Allen/hex key set (for holding link shaft)Essential
Open-end wrench set (metric)Essential
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Breaker bar
Parts
- Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — OEM Model Y front sway bar link, manufacturer-specified
- Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — OEM Model Y front sway bar link, manufacturer-specified
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is accessed in the front trunk area under the cowl trim — refer to the owner's manual for exact access.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place Service Mode out of the equation — with 12V disconnected, the vehicle cannot shift or wake. Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle ONLY on the manufacturer-specified front jack points using a proper puck adapter. Support on jack stands rated for the load.
- Remove both front wheels.
Procedure
- 1Inspect existing linksVisually inspect both front sway bar end links for torn boots, play in the ball studs, or knocking. Confirm replacement is needed and note orientation/clocking before removal so the new links install in the same direction.
- 2Apply penetrating oilSpray penetrating oil on the upper (strut bracket) and lower (sway bar end) nuts of both links. Allow several minutes to soak. This is critical — corrosion causes the stud to spin inside the ball socket and destroy the link before the nut breaks free.
- 3Remove driver-side (LH) sway bar link upper nutInsert an Allen/hex key into the end of the link stud to hold it stationary. Use an open-end wrench on the nut to loosen and remove. If the stud spins, grip the stud body with locking pliers as a last resort (link is being discarded). Repeat technique for both ends.⚠Do not use an impact gun without holding the stud — it will heat-weld the ball in the socket and destroy the link before the nut moves.
- 4Remove driver-side lower nut and linkLoosen the lower nut at the sway bar end using the same hold-the-stud technique. Remove the nut and pull the link free. Inspect the strut bracket eye and sway bar eye for damage or elongation.
- 5Install new driver-side linkCompare new link to old for length and stud orientation. Install in the same orientation noted earlier. Hand-thread both nuts to seat the studs into their tapers.
- 6Torque driver-side linkHold the stud with an Allen key at each end and torque the nuts to specification. The link nuts on Model Y front are torqued to the verified value below.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 7Repeat for passenger-side (RH) linkRepeat steps 3 through 6 on the passenger-side front sway bar end link.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 8Final inspectionConfirm both new links are seated, boots intact, and there is no contact with the strut, brake hose, ABS wiring, or wheel-speed sensor harness through the full range of suspension travel (push down on each fender to compress).
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts to seat.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Close the frunk and allow the vehicle to wake. Expect a brief delay; the touchscreen may show TPMS or stability-control alerts that clear after a short drive.
Verification
- Test drive at low speed over uneven pavement and listen for clunking — properly torqued links should be silent.
- At highway speed, confirm no steering wander or looseness on transitions.
- Re-check both link nuts after the first 50–100 miles of driving.
- While the front end is up, this is a convenient time to inspect the cabin air filter (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and to check tire wear — Model Y tires often need rotation by 6,250 mi due to high curb weight and instant torque.
- If brake fluid is approaching its 2-year service interval, consider scheduling that service as well.