steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replace a tie rod assembly (inner and/or outer tie rod end) on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The job requires a four-wheel alignment afterward, as toe will be disturbed.

Warnings

⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. Although this is a suspension/steering job, orange HV cabling is routed under the vehicle floor — stay clear of it.

⚠A wheel alignment is mandatory after tie rod replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service without verifying toe (and ideally full alignment).

⚠The Model Y has aluminum suspension components. Do not strike steering knuckles or control arms with a steel hammer — use a tie rod separator or dead-blow.

⚠Lift only at Tesla-designated jacking points using a proper puck. Lifting elsewhere can damage the HV battery enclosure on the floor.

ℹ️Steering wheel must remain locked (or steering column held still) once 12V is reconnected and the rack is disconnected from the wheels — avoid turning the wheel with a tie rod off to prevent clock spring damage.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands (or two-post lift)Essential

Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential

Metric socket setEssential

Tie rod end puller / ball joint separatorEssential

Inner tie rod removal tool (crow's foot or dedicated inner tie rod wrench)Essential

Wire brush

Tape measure or digital caliper (to record outer tie rod position before removal)Essential

Penetrating oil

Diagonal cutters / needle-nose pliers (for cotter pin)Essential

Tesla-approved jack pad / puckEssential

Parts

Tie rod assembly (inner + outer) or outer tie rod end — manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model Y × 1 — OEM Tesla replacement — verify by VIN
Cotter pin for tie rod end castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on 2024 Model Y). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
Raise the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jacking points and support on jack stands. Confirm stability before working underneath.
Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
Center the steering wheel and either lock the steering column or tape the wheel in place — once the tie rod is disconnected, the wheel must not rotate.
Before disassembly, measure and record the exposed thread length of the outer tie rod (or count threads) so the replacement can be installed close to the original toe setting. This is a temporary reference only — alignment is still required.

Procedure

1
Inspect and clean the tie rod area
Wire-brush the threads on the outer tie rod end and the lock nut. Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut and to the castle nut on the steering knuckle. Allow several minutes to soak.
2
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required on reassembly. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the stud and catch the joint when it releases.
3
Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
Use a tie rod end puller or ball joint separator to release the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer. Once the joint pops free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
⚠Pickle-fork separators can damage the ball joint boot. If reusing the tie rod end (outer-only swap not applicable), use a screw-type puller.
4
Mark and loosen the lock nut (outer tie rod replacement only)
If only the outer tie rod end is being replaced, loosen the lock nut against the inner tie rod, then count the rotations as you unthread the outer end so the replacement can be threaded back to approximately the same position.
5
Remove the inner tie rod from the rack (if replacing the full assembly)
Pull back or remove the steering rack boot clamp on the affected side and slide the boot inboard to expose the inner tie rod-to-rack joint. Using an inner tie rod removal tool (crow's foot or dedicated inner tie rod socket), unthread the inner tie rod from the steering rack. Hold the rack shaft from rotating by its flats — do NOT clamp the rack body.
⚠Do not turn the rack shaft using the inner tie rod as leverage — this can damage internal rack components.
6
Install the new inner tie rod
Thread the new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner tie rod-to-rack torque, as this value is not in the verified data set. Reposition the rack boot and secure with a new clamp if the original is a one-time-use type.
7
Install the lock nut and outer tie rod end
Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end on to approximately match the recorded thread count from removal. Do not fully tighten the lock nut yet — final torque is set after alignment.
8
Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
Insert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to the verified Tie Rod End Castle Nut torque. If the castle slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never back off) until alignment is achieved. Install a new cotter pin and bend its legs to secure.
⚠Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten to the next slot.
Torque spec
Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9
Preliminary lock nut snug
Snug the tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end to hold the rough toe setting for the drive to the alignment rack. Final torque to the verified Tie Rod Lock Nut spec is performed AFTER alignment.

Reassembly

Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified Wheel Lug Nuts spec (136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
Power up the vehicle and check for any steering, ABS, or stability control warnings on the touchscreen.
Drive the vehicle gently and directly to an alignment rack — do not commute on it.
Perform a four-wheel alignment. After toe is set, hold the outer tie rod end flats and torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to the verified spec.
After alignment, the vehicle may require a steering angle sensor calibration. If the steering wheel is off-center or the touchscreen displays a power steering / EPAS warning, perform the calibration per Tesla service procedure (this typically requires Tesla service tooling).

Verification

Confirm no power steering, ABS, traction control, or EPAS warnings on the touchscreen after reconnecting 12V and driving.
With the vehicle on the alignment rack, verify front toe is within Tesla specification for the 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD.
Test drive: steering wheel should be centered when driving straight; vehicle should not pull; no clunking or play over bumps.
Re-inspect the cotter pin installation at the tie rod end castle nut — legs must be bent and not protruding into rotating parts.
Confirm the steering rack boot is properly seated and clamped — a torn or unseated boot will allow contamination into the rack.
Re-verify lug nut torque after the first 50-100 miles, per general best practice on alloy wheels.
Note: while the vehicle is up for this job, it is a good time to verify tire rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi on Model Y) and inspect front brake pads.