Replace the inner tie rod end on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and requires removal of the outer tie rod end and bellows boot to access; a wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end assembly (Model Y / Model 3 platform) × 1 — OEM Tesla inner tie rod — match by VIN
• Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Steering rack bellows boot clamps (if damaged on removal) × 2 — OEM-spec boot clamps
• Steering rack bellows boot (if torn during removal) × 1 — OEM-spec rack boot

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y). Follow Tesla's documented 12V disconnect procedure to avoid waking the vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Set the steering wheel straight ahead and lock it in position (use a seatbelt loop through the wheel) so the rack stays centered while the tie rod is removed.
7. Loosen front lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using rubber pucks to protect the battery pack edge. Support on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Before disassembly, measure and record the exposed thread length (or count visible threads) between the outer tie rod jam nut and the inner tie rod — this preserves a near-baseline toe setting until alignment.

Procedure

1. 1

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the stud. Break the taper free using a tie rod separator tool (preferred) or carefully with a pickle fork — note that a pickle fork will damage the boot if the outer is being reused. Once the taper releases, remove the castle nut and lift the outer tie rod stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Use a tie rod separator or strike the steel stud area only.
2. 2

   Loosen the outer tie rod jam nut and unthread the outer tie rod
   With the recorded thread position noted, loosen the jam nut against the outer tie rod end. Count the exact number of full and partial turns required to remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod shaft. Record this count — it is your reinstallation reference.
3. 3

   Remove the steering rack bellows boot
   Release the outer (small) boot clamp and the inner (large) boot clamp on the rack housing. Most Tesla rack boots use crimped or spring-band clamps — cut or release as appropriate. Slide the bellows boot off and inspect it for tears; replace if damaged.
   ℹ️Inspect the boot for grease loss or contamination — a torn boot is often the root cause of inner tie rod failure on this platform.
4. 4

   Unthread the inner tie rod from the steering rack
   Hold the rack shaft from rotating using the flats provided on the rack (do NOT clamp the rack shaft in vise grips — it scores the seal surface). Using an inner tie rod tool sized for the inner tie rod's housing, unscrew the inner tie rod counterclockwise from the rack. Some inner tie rods have a staked locking feature — inspect for and release any staking before turning to avoid damaging rack threads.
   ⚠️Damaging the rack shaft threads or seal surface will require full steering rack replacement. Use the correct inner tie rod tool — do not improvise with pipe wrenches.
5. 5

   Inspect the rack and prepare the new inner tie rod
   Inspect the rack shaft threads, the rack bushing seal, and the boot landing groove for damage or grease loss. Compare the new inner tie rod to the old one — confirm length, ball stud size, and thread pitch are identical. Apply a small amount of thread locker only if specified by the new part's manufacturer instructions; many OEM-style inner tie rods come pre-applied.
6. 6

   Install the new inner tie rod
   Thread the new inner tie rod onto the rack shaft by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten using the inner tie rod tool. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner-to-rack torque value, as this specific value is not in our verified database. If the new part includes a staking feature, stake per its instructions.
   ⚠Do not guess the inner-tie-rod-to-rack torque. Under-torque will allow loosening; over-torque can damage the rack. Consult the service manual for the verified value.
7. 7

   Reinstall the bellows boot
   Slide the bellows boot back over the rack housing and inner tie rod. Seat both ends in their grooves. Install new clamps if the originals were single-use. Ensure the boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear within a few thousand miles.
8. 8

   Reinstall the outer tie rod end
   Thread the outer tie rod onto the new inner tie rod the SAME number of turns recorded during removal, returning to the recorded thread count. Snug the jam nut against the outer tie rod by hand — final torque on the jam nut is performed AFTER alignment.
9. 9

   Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
   Insert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to spec. Align the castellation with the cotter pin hole — if needed, tighten slightly more (never loosen) to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over.
   ⚠Always use a NEW cotter pin. Never reuse.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to fully wake — confirm no chassis or steering warnings are displayed on the touchscreen.
6. Drive the vehicle slowly and carefully (parking lot speeds only) to a wheel alignment shop. Do NOT drive at highway speeds with an un-aligned front end.
7. After a four-wheel alignment is performed, torque the tie rod jam (lock) nut to its final spec.

Verification

• Confirm steering wheel is centered while driving straight after alignment — Model Y EPS will not auto-center a crooked wheel; it must be set mechanically.
• Check that no steering, EPS, or chassis fault messages are present on the touchscreen.
• Inspect the new bellows boot at full lock left and full lock right — confirm it is not pinched, twisted, or contacting the subframe.
• Verify both cotter pins (outer tie rod castle nut) are installed and bent properly.
• Confirm a four-wheel alignment was performed and the alignment sheet shows toe within Tesla spec — keep the printout, since Model Y is highly sensitive to toe and tire wear is already accelerated on this platform.
• Lug nuts: re-torque after approximately 50 miles of driving — Tesla recommends a re-torque verification on lug fasteners.
• After the lock nut is final-torqued post-alignment, confirm the outer tie rod end does not rotate freely against the inner.

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