Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. This is a chassis-only job with no HV exposure, but a post-repair alignment is mandatory due to toe change.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model Y / Model 3 platform, side-specific if applicable) × 1 — Tesla OEM outer tie rod end — verify left/right by VIN
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin sized to castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on 2024 Model Y — refer to the in-vehicle service mode disconnect procedure if available).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting if the 12V is still connected, to disable air-suspension-related logic and self-leveling routines (Model Y has coil suspension but Service Mode also suppresses fault logging).
7. Loosen the front lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark the original tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, clean the tie rod threads with a wire brush. Use a paint marker or calipers to record the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod and the lock nut, OR count the exact number of turns when removing. This preserves approximate toe so the vehicle is drivable to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut (jam nut)
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench on its flats and break loose the lock nut where the outer tie rod end threads in. Do not fully remove it — just break it free so the outer can be unscrewed later.
   ⚠Do not twist the inner tie rod's bellows boot. Always counter-hold on the inner tie rod flats.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard it. Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end ball stud.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a proper tie rod end separator (puller-style, not a pickle fork unless the boot is being discarded). Apply steady pressure until the tapered stud releases from the knuckle. Do NOT hammer the aluminum steering knuckle.
   ⚠Tesla steering knuckle is aluminum — striking it can crack it. Use a press-style separator.
5. 5

   Unscrew the old outer tie rod end
   Counter-hold the inner tie rod on its flats. Unscrew the outer tie rod end, counting full turns until it releases. Record this number. Inspect the inner tie rod boot, threads, and the steering rack area for any damage, leakage, or contamination while you have access.
6. 6

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod, matching the same number of turns recorded during removal. Do not yet tighten the lock nut — final torque happens after alignment.
7. 7

   Reinsert the ball stud into the steering knuckle
   Seat the new tie rod end's tapered stud into the knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, only ADVANCE the nut further — never back off.
   ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Always tighten further. A loose castle nut can cause loss of steering.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install a new cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud hole. Bend the legs over per standard practice so it cannot back out.
9. 9

   Snug (do not final-torque) the lock nut
   Snug the tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end so the assembly will not rotate during the drive to alignment, but leave it short of full torque. Final torque is applied AFTER alignment toe is set.
   ℹ️Final lock nut torque is applied during alignment — see reassembly section.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
6. Drive carefully and directly to an alignment rack — do not perform any aggressive maneuvers.
7. After alignment toe is set, the technician must final-torque the tie rod lock nut to specification while counter-holding the inner tie rod flats.

Verification

• Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight after alignment.
• Confirm no clunking or play when rocking the steering left-right at full lock with the wheels on the ground.
• Visually verify the new cotter pin is installed and bent over on the castle nut.
• Verify the lock nut has been final-torqued AFTER alignment — refer to torque spec for Tie Rod Lock Nut.
• On a test drive, confirm no steering pull and that Autosteer / Autopilot tracks straight (an off-center steering angle sensor will cause Autopilot drift even when mechanical alignment is correct — a steering angle sensor recalibration may be required at the alignment shop or via Tesla service).
• Inspect tires after the next 500–1000 miles for any abnormal inner/outer edge wear, which would indicate alignment is still out. Note: Model Y tire wear is unusually high — rotate every 6,250 mi as Tesla recommends.

More procedures for this vehicle