Replacement of both inner and outer tie rod assemblies on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. This job affects steering geometry — a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after completion.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod assembly × 2 — OEM Tesla Model Y front inner tie rod (left and right)
• Outer tie rod end × 2 — OEM Tesla Model Y front outer tie rod end (left and right)
• Castle nut cotter pins × 2 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is accessed beneath the rear seat / front trunk area depending on build — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the exact location for your VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using ONLY Tesla-approved lift points and rubber pucks. Support securely on jack stands rated for the Model Y curb weight (~4,400 lb).
8. Remove both front wheels.
9. Center the steering wheel and lock it (steering wheel lock or seatbelt through the wheel) so the rack does not rotate during inner tie rod removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document existing tie rod position
   Before disassembly, clean threads with a wire brush and apply penetrating oil to the outer tie rod lock nut. Mark the outer tie rod's position on the inner tie rod shaft and count exposed threads on each side. This provides a baseline toe setting to drive safely to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer tie rod end
   On the driver's side, straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud, then loosen the castle nut. Back the nut off but leave it threaded on flush with the stud tip — this protects the threads when separating the taper.
   ⚠Discard the cotter pin. It must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.
3. 3

   Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller (preferred) or a pickle fork to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. A puller is preferred — pickle forks can damage the boot if the tie rod end is being reused, but here parts are being replaced. Remove the castle nut fully and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not strike the knuckle directly with a hammer.
4. 4

   Loosen lock nut and unthread outer tie rod end
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench on its flats while loosening the outer tie rod lock nut. Count rotations as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner shaft so you can approximate original toe on reassembly.
5. 5

   Access and release the inner tie rod boot
   Slide back or remove the rubber rack boot clamp on the rack end. Some clamps are crimped — cut carefully and plan to install new clamps. Slide the boot inboard to expose the inner tie rod ball housing.
   ℹ️Inspect the rack boot for tears. If torn, replace it; a damaged boot will allow contamination of the steering rack.
6. 6

   Remove inner tie rod from steering rack
   Using an inner tie rod removal tool (crowfoot-style socket sized to the inner tie rod flats), unthread the inner tie rod from the steering rack. Hold the rack shaft to prevent it from rotating or extending — never pry against the rack housing. Note any shims/washers and their orientation.
   ⚠️Do not allow the rack to rotate or be forced. Damage to the electric power steering rack on the Model Y is an expensive repair.
7. 7

   Repeat inner/outer removal on passenger side
   Repeat steps 2-6 on the passenger side. Keep left and right components separated — they are typically not interchangeable.
8. 8

   Install new inner tie rods
   Thread each new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten to OEM specification using the inner tie rod tool. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner tie rod-to-rack torque value (the verified list does not include this specific spec).
   ⚠Do not substitute the 'Tie Rod Nut' or rack bolt torque values — the inner tie rod ball housing has its own spec. Verify in service documentation before final torquing.
9. 9

   Reposition rack boot and secure with new clamps
   Slide the rack boot back into position over the new inner tie rod, ensuring it is seated in the groove on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod shaft. Install new boot clamps. Confirm boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear under steering travel.
10. 10

    Thread new outer tie rod ends and lock nuts
    Install the lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft, then thread the new outer tie rod end on. Set the position to match the thread count recorded in Step 1. Do NOT torque the lock nut yet — final torque happens after alignment.
11. 11

    Insert outer tie rod end into steering knuckle
    Seat the new outer tie rod end stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to spec, then continue tightening (only if necessary) to align the slot with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over.
    ⚠️Use a NEW cotter pin. A loose castle nut will cause sudden loss of steering.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat outer tie rod installation on opposite side
    Repeat steps 10-11 on the other side. Verify both sides have approximately equal thread engagement on the outer tie rods.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread lugs first to avoid cross-threading the aluminum hub.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Power on the vehicle and verify no steering, ABS, or stability control faults are displayed on the touchscreen. Some 2024 Model Y vehicles may require a steering angle relearn — drive at low speed in a safe area or have a Tesla-capable scan tool perform the calibration if a fault appears.
6. Drive carefully and directly to an alignment shop — do not drive long distances on the rough toe setting.
7. After four-wheel alignment is complete, torque the outer tie rod lock nuts to spec.

Verification

• Confirm steering wheel is centered after alignment; if not, alignment was performed incorrectly.
• Check for any orange or red wrench/steering warning icons on the touchscreen — none should be present.
• Lock-to-lock steering should feel smooth with no binding, clicks, or knocks.
• After a short test drive, re-inspect both rack boots for proper seating and no twisting.
• Visually verify both new cotter pins are installed and bent.
• Check for any clunking over bumps — indicates loose castle nut or improperly seated taper.
• Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 miles — note current mileage and schedule the next rotation, since tie rod replacement is often prompted by uneven wear and proper rotation cadence will preserve the new alignment.

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