Replacement of a rear upper control arm on a 2024 Model Y Long Range AWD. The rear suspension uses a multi-link design shared with the Model 3 platform; this job involves unloading the suspension, removing the upper arm's inboard and outboard fasteners, and reinstalling with final torque applied at ride height.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear Upper Control Arm Assembly (OEM or OEM-equivalent) × 1 — Tesla Model Y rear upper control arm — verify left/right side
• Replacement fasteners if specified single-use by manufacturer × 1 — OEM specification — inspect and replace any stretch/torque-to-yield bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion on most 2024 builds) is located under a trim panel in the front trunk area or under the rear seat depending on production — consult the in-vehicle service mode location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Tesla in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) to disable self-leveling routines and prevent unwanted system activation.
7. Chock the front wheels.
8. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Raise the rear of the vehicle using ONLY the manufacturer-designated lift points with proper puck adapters, and support on rated jack stands.
10. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side and set aside.
11. Confirm the side (LH vs RH) and orientation of the new upper control arm before beginning disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear knuckle/hub
   Place a floor jack with a soft pad under the rear lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the upper arm is disconnected and keeps the half-shaft from being overextended.
   ⚠Do not let the suspension hang at full droop — overextension can damage the half-shaft inner CV joint.
2. 2

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the existing upper control arm orientation, fastener positions, and any alignment cam markings on the inboard bolt. The rear upper arm is a primary camber adjustment — note its current position to ease post-repair alignment.
3. 3

   Disconnect the outboard end of the upper control arm
   Locate the outboard fastener where the upper arm attaches to the rear knuckle. Depending on configuration this may be a through-bolt or a ball joint stud with a castle nut and cotter pin. If a cotter pin is present, remove and discard it. Loosen and remove the nut/bolt. If a tapered ball joint stud is used, separate it from the knuckle using a manufacturer-specified separator — do NOT strike the aluminum knuckle with a hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a proper ball joint separator or press, not impact.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect the inboard end of the upper control arm
   Locate the inboard mounting bolt at the subframe/cradle bracket. Mark the position of any eccentric/cam alignment washer relative to the bracket so the new arm can be installed in approximately the same camber position. Loosen and remove the inboard bolt.
   ℹ️If the bolt is seized or corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak. Do not heat — adjacent components and harnesses can be damaged.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the upper control arm
   With both ends free, maneuver the upper control arm out of the vehicle. Take care not to damage the wheel speed sensor harness, parking brake cable, or any nearby brake/ABS lines routed along the upper arm or knuckle.
6. 6

   Compare old and new arms
   Lay the old and new arms side-by-side. Verify length, bushing/ball joint orientation, and side-specific (LH/RH) features match. Confirm any included hardware matches OEM specification.
7. 7

   Install new upper control arm — inboard side
   Position the new arm into the inboard subframe bracket. Insert the inboard bolt with the eccentric/cam washer aligned to the marks made during removal. Hand-thread the nut. Do NOT final-torque yet — this fastener is torqued at ride height.
8. 8

   Install new upper control arm — outboard side
   Connect the outboard end to the rear knuckle. If a ball joint stud is used, seat the taper fully before installing the nut. Torque the ball joint nut to specification, then install a NEW cotter pin (advance the nut slightly to align the slot if needed — never back off).
   ⚠Always install a new cotter pin. Never reuse.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
   Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full vehicle weight is on the wheels (or use ramp stands / a drive-on lift to simulate ride height). Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final-torque the inboard control arm bolt at ride height
    With suspension fully loaded at ride height, torque the inboard control arm bolt to the specified value. This is critical — torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushing and cause premature failure and ride harshness.
    ⚠CRITICAL: Final torque must occur with vehicle weight on the wheels.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify the cotter pin at the ball joint (if applicable) is fully seated and bent per OEM specification.
2. Confirm the inboard bolt is final-torqued at ride height.
3. Verify wheel lug nuts are torqued in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the vehicle to complete its self-checks.
6. Clear any chassis or suspension-related fault codes that may have set during the repair.
7. Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately — the rear upper control arm controls camber, and any change in eccentric position will alter rear alignment.

Verification

• Visually verify the new upper control arm is seated, both fasteners are torqued, and no harnesses or brake lines are pinched or routed against the arm.
• Bounce-test the rear suspension and listen for clunks, squeaks, or contact noises.
• Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed. Confirm no pulling, no clunking on bumps, no tire rub at full lock.
• Confirm on the touchscreen that no chassis warnings (ABS, stability control, vehicle hold) are present.
• Perform a 4-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable rack — the Model Y rear camber spec is tight, and uncorrected alignment will rapidly destroy the rear tires (a known Model Y wear pattern; Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi regardless).
• Reminder: while in for service, check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends every 2 years), cabin filter age (every 2 years), and rear drive unit gear oil interval (Tesla now recommends ~12,500 mi initial then 25,000-50,000 mi) — none are 'lifetime' despite older marketing claims.

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