Replace a front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Model Y AWD. The hub is a bolt-on unit secured to the steering knuckle by four bolts from the rear; the half-shaft must be disengaged from the hub to remove it.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing/hub assembly (Model Y 2024) × 1 — OEM Tesla front hub assembly — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM Tesla front axle nut, single-use
• Hub mounting bolts (if specified single-use) × 4 — OEM-spec hub bolts — replace if torque-to-yield

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y the 12V (Li-ion) is located under the front trunk/frunk trim — refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact access on your build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable self-leveling logic and prevent unintended low-voltage wakeups.
7. Loosen the axle nut and wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground (axle nut torque is very high — safer with wheel loaded).
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking pads using a hockey-puck style adapter; support on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and bracket
   Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts (or the caliper bracket bolts) and lift the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with a bungee cord from the strut — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. If only the caliper slides off the bracket, also remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle to access the hub face.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Hanging weight on the hose can damage the inner liner.
2. 2

   Remove brake rotor
   Remove the rotor retaining clip or screw if present, then slide the rotor off the hub. If corroded to the hub, tap evenly around the rotor hat with a dead-blow — never strike the hub face or the wheel speed sensor.
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the steering knuckle and carefully withdraw the sensor. Unclip the sensor harness from any retainers on the strut/knuckle so it is free of the hub. Inspect the sensor O-ring; replace if torn.
   ⚠Do not pry on the sensor body — it is brittle. If seized, twist gently while pulling.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the axle nut and free the half-shaft from the hub
   With the axle nut already loosened, fully remove it. Push the outer CV stub axle inward to break it free from the hub splines. If the splines are seized, use a manufacturer-specified hub puller — do NOT hammer the axle inward, as this can damage the inner tripod CV.
   ⚠The axle nut is single-use on most Tesla applications. Install a new nut on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support the half-shaft
   Once the outer stub is free of the hub, swing the half-shaft outboard and support it level with a bungee or wire. Do not let it hang. If needed, separate the outer tie rod or lower ball joint per the Tesla Service Manual to gain swing clearance — torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. 6

   Remove the hub assembly bolts
   From the rear of the steering knuckle, remove the four bolts retaining the wheel bearing hub assembly. Access may be tight — use a wobble extension or short bit socket. Note bolt orientation and length if any differ.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the hub from the knuckle
   Pull the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle. If seized, apply penetrating oil to the hub-to-knuckle interface and use a dead-blow on the hub flange edge — never on the hub center or sensor area. A puller threaded into the hub bolt holes is the safest method.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — do not pry with steel tools against the bore or you will gouge the seat and prevent proper hub seating.
8. 8

   Clean the knuckle bore and mating surfaces
   Wire-brush corrosion and debris from the knuckle bore and the bolt-hole faces. The new hub must seat fully flat against the knuckle — any debris causes runout, brake judder, and ABS faults. Apply a light film of anti-seize to the knuckle bore (not the bolt threads or hub face).
9. 9

   Install the new hub assembly
   Position the new hub into the knuckle, aligning the wheel speed sensor encoder ring (if integrated) so it faces the ABS sensor opening. Install the four hub bolts. Apply medium-strength threadlocker if the OEM bolts do not arrive pre-coated. Torque in a cross pattern.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Re-engage the half-shaft outer stub through the hub splines. Push by hand — if it will not seat, verify spline alignment; do not hammer.
2. Install a NEW axle nut and snug it to hold the axle in place; final torque is set with the wheel on the ground.
3. Reinstall the brake rotor and any retaining clip/screw.
4. Reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper. Apply threadlocker to caliper bracket bolts and torque to spec (Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front: 120 Nm).
5. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor with a light dab of silicone grease on the O-ring; torque the ABS sensor bolt to 10 Nm. Re-clip the harness in its original routing.
6. Reinstall the wheel; snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
7. Lower the vehicle so the wheel is loaded but not at full weight; final-torque the axle nut to 250 Nm. Stake the nut or install a new cotter pin as applicable.
8. Lower fully and torque the wheel lug nuts to 136 Nm in a star pattern.
9. Reconnect the 12V battery. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
10. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the pads against the rotor.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, confirm no warning lights on the instrument cluster — particularly ABS, traction control, or 'Vehicle may not restart' messages tied to wheel speed sensor faults.
• Drive at low speed (5–15 mph) in a safe area and confirm ABS self-test completes without fault. The system pulses each wheel speed sensor briefly after first motion.
• Listen for any humming, grinding, or growling from the front corner that increases with speed — indicates improper hub seating or contaminated bearing.
• Check for brake pedal pulsation on first stops — would indicate rotor not fully seated on the new hub face.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck wheel lug torque (136 Nm) — Tesla wheels can settle on the hub.
• Note: while in this corner, this is also a good opportunity to inspect tire wear (Model Y burns front tires quickly — Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi) and to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years).

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