Replace a failed rear power window regulator on a 2024 Model Y. The rear door card must be removed, the window glass detached from the regulator carriers, and the regulator/motor assembly extracted through the door's service opening.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear door window regulator assembly (with motor) — Model Y specific, left or right as needed × 1 — OEM Model Y rear regulator — confirm LH vs RH
• Replacement door card retention clips (often damaged on removal) × 1 — Model 3/Y shared door panel clip set
• Replacement vapor barrier butyl/foam sealant (if original tears) × 1 — Generic automotive butyl rope sealant

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob carried well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even though this is a non-HV job.
3. Open the rear trunk and access the 12V low-voltage battery (location varies by build — on this 2024 Model Y refer to architecture notes; it is under interior trim, not under the frunk). Disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure whether a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V, lower the affected rear window approximately halfway (or to a position where the regulator-to-glass bolts are visible through the door's service holes). If the regulator is already failed and the glass is stuck down, plan to support the glass from inside the door cavity.
7. With the window in the desired position, disconnect 12V, then secure the glass to the upper door frame with strong painter's tape across both sides of the glass to the painted frame.
8. Lay down a soft cover on the rear seat and door sill to protect interior surfaces during panel removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear door card
   Starting at the lower rear corner, use a non-marring trim tool to release the perimeter clips around the rear door panel. Work upward along the rear edge, across the bottom, and up the front edge. Lift the panel up and off the window belt line. Tilt the top of the panel away from the door, then disconnect the wiring harnesses for the door switches/speaker by depressing each connector lock. Set the door card aside on a soft surface.
   ⚠Expect 1-3 clips to break — have replacements on hand.
2. 2

   Peel back the vapor barrier
   Carefully peel the plastic vapor/acoustic barrier away from the inner door sheet only as far as needed to access the regulator fasteners and harness routing. Preserve the butyl sealant by folding the barrier back onto itself rather than stretching it. Have replacement butyl ready in case the original tears.
   ℹ️A torn or improperly resealed vapor barrier will cause water intrusion and wind noise — both are common Model Y complaints.
3. 3

   Verify glass is secured, then unbolt glass from regulator carriers
   Confirm the painter's tape holding the glass is secure. Through the door's service openings, locate the two fasteners that clamp the window glass to the regulator's lifter carriers. Loosen and remove these fasteners. The glass should now be free of the regulator and held only by the tape.
   ⚠If the glass slips, it can shatter against the inner door structure. Add a second layer of tape if uncertain.
4. 4

   Slide glass up and secure
   Slide the glass fully upward into the door frame and re-tape it firmly to the outer door frame so it cannot drop while you work. This keeps the glass out of the way of regulator removal.
5. 5

   Disconnect regulator motor harness
   Locate the window motor electrical connector on the regulator assembly. Depress the locking tab and disconnect. Free the harness from any clips on the regulator so it remains with the door when the regulator is removed.
6. 6

   Remove regulator mounting fasteners
   Remove the fasteners securing the regulator assembly to the inner door panel — typically several bolts/nuts along the regulator rail and around the motor. Support the regulator with one hand as the last fastener is removed; it will drop slightly once free.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Extract regulator through service opening
   Maneuver the regulator/motor assembly through the largest service opening in the inner door panel. The motor is the bulkiest part — angle it out first, then slide the rail out. Do not force it; if it snags, reposition rather than pulling hard, to avoid damaging the inner door sheet or wiring.
8. 8

   Compare new regulator to old
   Lay the new regulator next to the old one. Verify rail length, motor orientation, connector type, and lifter-carrier height. Confirm LH vs RH if applicable. Pre-position the new regulator's carriers to roughly the same height the glass is currently held at to make glass re-engagement easier.
9. 9

   Install new regulator
   Feed the new regulator into the door through the service opening, motor first. Align the mounting points with the inner door panel, start all fasteners by hand, then torque to the manufacturer-specified bracket value.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect motor and re-engage glass
    Reconnect the window motor electrical connector and ensure the harness is routed in its original clips. Carefully release the tape holding the glass and lower the glass onto the regulator carriers. Align the glass mounting holes with the carriers and install the glass-to-carrier fasteners. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    ⚠Do not overtighten the glass clamp bolts — overtorque can crack the laminated glass at the mount points.
11. 11

    Bench-test before reassembly
    Temporarily reconnect the 12V battery (negative terminal). Without reinstalling the door card, cycle the window fully up and down 2-3 times, watching for binding, scraping on the seal, or motor strain. Listen for unusual noise. Then disconnect 12V again before continuing reassembly.
    ⚠Keep fingers clear of the window channel during the test — anti-pinch is not yet calibrated.
    Torque spec

    Battery Terminal Bolts6 Nm (4 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reseal the vapor barrier with original or fresh butyl, ensuring a continuous water seal around the entire perimeter.
2. Reconnect the door card harnesses (switch pack, speaker, courtesy light if equipped).
3. Hang the door card on the belt line first, then press the perimeter clips home with palm pressure — never a mallet. Replace any broken clips.
4. Reinstall any hidden fasteners or trim caps removed during door card removal.
5. Reconnect the 12V negative terminal and torque the battery terminal bolt.
6. Recalibrate the window auto-up/down (one-touch) function: with the door closed, hold the window switch in the FULL DOWN position for ~2 seconds after the glass bottoms; then hold the switch in the FULL UP position until the glass tops out and hold for ~2 seconds. Repeat if auto-up does not function on first try.
7. Reinstall any seat back, trim, or covers disturbed during 12V access.

Verification

• Cycle the rear window fully up and down using auto-mode from both the door switch and the front master switch — confirm one-touch operates in both directions.
• Verify anti-pinch by gently obstructing the window during an auto-up cycle (use a roll of foam, not a finger) — the glass should reverse downward immediately.
• Inspect the glass alignment in the seal at the top — even seating with no gap front-to-rear.
• With the window fully closed, spray water along the door glass and door frame; check inside the door card area for leaks indicating an improperly sealed vapor barrier.
• Drive briefly at 40+ mph and listen for new wind noise from the repaired door — a common indicator of a poorly resealed vapor barrier on Model Y.
• Confirm no error messages or window-related alerts appear on the center touchscreen.

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