suspension
Lower Control Arm
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
12
Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance AWD. The aluminum front suspension shares architecture with the Model 3; final torque on control arm bolts must be done at ride height to preserve bushing life.
Warnings
⚠️Tesla Model Y curb weight exceeds 4,400 lb. Use only EV-rated jack stands and lift at the factory puck points — lifting on the battery pack edge can puncture HV cells.
⚠️The HV battery pack is directly above/inboard of the front subframe area. Do not pry against, drill into, or strike the pack. If you see ANY orange cable, STOP.
⚠Front suspension components are aluminum. Do not strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
⚠Control arm pivot bolts MUST be final-torqued with vehicle weight on the wheels. Torquing at full droop will preload the bushing and cause premature failure.
ℹ️A wheel alignment is required after this job. Camber and caster on the Model Y front are sensitive to LCA position.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for EV curb weight (2+ ton)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (puck-style lift adapters)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Torque wrench (extended, capable of 165 Nm)Essential
Metric socket set (deep and shallow)Essential
Metric Allen/hex key setEssential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork (or tie rod puller)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wheel chocksEssential
Drive-on ramps or alignment-height blocks (for final torque at ride height)
Parts
- Front lower control arm assembly (Model Y, side-specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model Y front LCA — confirm left/right and Performance trim fitment
- Ball joint nut (single-use if specified by OEM) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut — replace if removed
- Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (replace if specified single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec — refer to Tesla Service Manual
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) is located under the rear passenger area / front trunk depending on build — refer to vehicle documentation; disconnect negative first.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) before lifting to disable self-leveling logic and active suspension calibration routines.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while tires are still on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated puck points and support on EV-rated jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
- Inspect the new control arm against the old one for correct side and orientation before installation.
Procedure
- 1Remove front underbody aero shieldRemove the plastic fasteners and bolts securing the front aero/belly shield to access the lower control arm pivot bolts and ball joint. Set hardware aside in order.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end link from the lower control armRemove the sway bar link nut at the LCA. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key to prevent it from spinning while loosening the nut. Swing the link out of the way.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Support the knuckle/hub assemblyPlace a jack with a wood block under the steering knuckle to support its weight. This prevents the CV axle and brake hose from being stressed when the ball joint is separated.⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or CV joint — damage to the hose or axle boot will result.
- 4Separate the ball joint from the knuckleRemove the ball joint pinch bolt or castellated nut (configuration per OEM). Use a ball joint separator to release the LCA ball joint stud from the knuckle. Avoid striking the aluminum knuckle directly.⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a separator tool, not a pickle fork hammered with steel, to avoid cracking the casting.
- 5Remove the LCA pivot bolts from the subframeSupport the control arm. Remove the front and rear pivot bolts/nuts that secure the LCA to the front subframe. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams or washers — reinstall in the same orientation.ℹ️Some Tesla pivot fasteners are torque-to-yield or single-use. Replace if specified by the Tesla Service Manual.
- 6Remove the lower control armManeuver the LCA down and out of the subframe. Compare old and new arms side-by-side to confirm correct part, ball joint orientation, and bushing alignment.
- 7Install the new lower control arm into the subframePosition the new LCA into the subframe pockets. Hand-thread the pivot bolts/nuts in their original orientation. Do NOT final-torque yet — leave snug only.
- 8Reattach the ball joint to the knuckleInsert the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the pinch bolt or castellated nut per OEM configuration and torque the ball joint nut to spec.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 9Reconnect the sway bar end linkReinstall the sway bar link to the LCA. Hold the link's shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut to spec.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall aero shield and wheelReinstall the front belly/aero shield with all original fasteners. Mount the front wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- 11Lower vehicle to ride height and final-torque pivot boltsLower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the wheels (use drive-on ramps or alignment blocks if needed for tool access). With the suspension at ride height, final-torque the LCA pivot bolts to the verified spec. This is critical — torquing at droop will damage the bushings.⚠Final torque MUST be applied with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 12Final torque wheel lug nutsWith wheels on the ground, torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified spec.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Confirm all fasteners are torqued (ball joint, sway bar link, LCA pivots at ride height, lug nuts).
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative last).
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen once the vehicle is on the ground.
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle off, then with the vehicle on, to allow the EPS to recalibrate end stops.
- Drive the vehicle directly to an alignment rack — do not put significant miles on it before alignment.
Verification
- Perform a four-wheel alignment. Front camber, caster, and toe must be reset to Tesla Model Y Performance specifications — the Performance trim has unique specs vs. Long Range.
- Check the touchscreen for any suspension, ABS, or stability control faults. Clear any DTCs that resulted from disconnecting the 12V if they don't self-clear.
- Test drive: verify no clunking over bumps, no pull, and centered steering wheel. A clunk on first drive often indicates a pivot bolt that was torqued at full droop — recheck if present.
- Re-inspect ball joint and pivot torque after the first 100 miles as a safety check on a critical suspension fastener.
- Note: while the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to inspect tire wear (Model Y wears tires aggressively — Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi) and check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years).