Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. The front bearing is a press-fit unit retained in the steering knuckle; proper removal requires a hydraulic press or on-vehicle bearing puller kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type, OEM-spec for Model Y Performance) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front wheel bearing assembly
• New axle nut (single-use) and cotter pin or stake nut × 1 — OEM single-use axle retention hardware
• Hub flange bolts (if damaged on removal) × 3 — OEM hub bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on 2024 Model Y — refer to service manual for exact access).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. With wheels still on the ground, break the axle nut loose (do not remove) and loosen the wheel lug nuts.
7. Lift the front of the vehicle ONLY at the Tesla-designated front jack pad points. Support on rated jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel and set aside on its sidewall to avoid TPMS valve damage.
9. Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling routed near the front subframe before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper assembly off the rotor. Suspend the caliper from the strut/spring with a hanger or bungee — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Slide the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized, thread two bolts into the rotor's threaded jacking holes to push it free.
   ⚠Never let the caliper hang from the brake hose — it will damage the hose internally.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor and brake hose bracket
   Unclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the knuckle and any retainers along the strut. If the sensor is integrated into the bearing/hub assembly, leave it attached for now and route it clear. Remove the small bolt securing the ABS sensor to the knuckle if needed for clearance.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the axle nut
   With the wheel off and the brake removed, finish removing the previously-loosened axle nut and discard it. Push the half-shaft splined end back through the hub slightly. If the axle is stuck, tap with a brass drift or use a puller — do not hammer directly on the shaft threads.
   ⚠Axle nut is single-use. Have a new nut and cotter pin/stake on hand before reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate steering and suspension joints from the knuckle
   Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the knuckle (remove cotter pin/nut and use a separator). Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle per the manufacturer-specified procedure. Support the lower control arm. Depending on technique chosen, you may also remove the upper strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt to swing the knuckle free, or remove the entire knuckle from the vehicle for press work.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — use a proper separator tool. Do not pickle-fork or pry against casting webs.
5. 5

   Free the half-shaft from the hub
   Slide the outer CV stub out of the hub splines. Support the half-shaft so it does not hang by the inner CV joint, which can damage the inner tripod. Tie it up to a suspension component.
   ⚠Do not over-extend the inner CV joint. Excessive plunge can dislodge tripod rollers and contaminate the joint.
6. 6

   Remove the hub flange from the knuckle
   Remove the bolts retaining the hub flange (if a separate flange-and-bearing design is used) from the rear of the knuckle. If the hub is pressed into the bearing inner race, use a slide hammer or hub puller to extract the hub flange. Inspect the flange sealing surface and splines for damage.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Press the old bearing out of the knuckle
   With the knuckle on the bench (or using an on-car bearing tool kit), remove any retaining circlip/snap ring. Support the knuckle on the press bed using bearing-sized cups so the press force pushes the outer race in the correct direction. Press the old bearing out of the knuckle bore. Note the orientation of any tone-ring/magnetic encoder seal so the new bearing is installed the same way.
   ⚠Many modern bearings contain a magnetic encoder ring on one face for the ABS sensor. Installing it backward will cause ABS/traction-control faults.
   ⚠Press only on the outer race during removal; pressing on the inner race will destroy the new bearing if reused and can fracture the knuckle.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Clean the bearing bore in the knuckle thoroughly. Inspect for scoring, ovality, or cracks — any of these require knuckle replacement. Lightly lubricate the bore with a thin film of clean oil to ease the new bearing installation. Do not use grease in the bore; it can hydraulic-lock during press-in.
9. 9

   Press the new bearing into the knuckle
   Orient the new bearing with the encoder/sensor side facing the same direction as the original. Start the bearing square in the bore by hand. Using a press and a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race, press the bearing in until fully seated against its shoulder or until the snap ring groove is exposed. Reinstall the snap ring if equipped.
   ⚠Press on the outer race ONLY during installation. Pressing through the inner race will brinell the rollers and ruin the new bearing.
10. 10

    Install the hub flange into the new bearing
    Support the bearing on the inner race (so press force is applied to the inner race only) and press the hub flange into the bearing until fully seated. Reinstall hub retaining bolts if applicable. Confirm the hub spins freely with no roughness.
    ⚠Switch press-support orientation: hub installation supports the INNER race; bearing installation supports the OUTER race. Mixing these will destroy the bearing.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the knuckle to the strut and/or reconnect the upper strut pinch bolt; torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Reconnect the lower ball joint to the knuckle; torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
3. Reconnect the outer tie rod end and install a new cotter pin if specified; torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Slide the half-shaft splines back through the hub. Install a NEW axle nut finger-tight at this stage.
5. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper bracket; torque caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
6. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and harness clips; torque the ABS Sensor Bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft).
7. Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
8. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as required.
9. Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
10. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.

Verification

• Cycle the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the caliper pistons against the pads.
• Power the vehicle on and confirm there are NO ABS, traction control, stability control, or wheel-speed sensor faults on the touchscreen. A reversed encoder ring is the most common cause if a single-wheel ABS fault appears.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for bearing noise (growling that changes with cornering load) and feel for any steering pull or vibration.
• After the test drive, re-check the wheel lug torque to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) and inspect the axle nut/cotter pin or staking.
• Recommend an alignment check — separating the tie rod and ball joint can disturb toe and camber.
• Note: tire rotation interval on this Model Y Performance is approximately every 6,250 miles due to high curb weight and instant torque; perform rotation while wheels are off if mileage warrants.

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