brakes
Brake Hose - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
10
Steps
12
Replacement of a front brake hose on a 2024 Model Y Performance. This is a hydraulic-only job — no HV interaction — but requires a full brake bleed afterward and uses new copper sealing washers at the banjo fitting.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or route tools near any orange high-voltage cable beneath the vehicle. The HV pack runs the length of the floor on Model Y.
⚠The Model Y has an aluminum-intensive body and a structural floor pack. Lift only at Tesla-designated jack points using rubber pucks — lifting elsewhere can dent the battery enclosure or rocker.
⚠Brake fluid will damage paint and aluminum finishes. Cover the wheel well liner and any painted surface near the caliper and master cylinder area.
ℹ️DOT 3 brake fluid is hygroscopic. Tesla recommends a brake fluid service every 2 years — consider performing a full flush while the system is open.
⚠Always replace the copper washers on the banjo bolt. Reused washers commonly weep and can cause a slow pedal failure.
Tools required
Metric socket set (with 21mm thin-wall socket for lug nuts)Essential
Flare-nut (line) wrench set, metricEssential
Torque wrench (5–25 Nm range)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla jack pad pucks (prevent battery pack damage)Essential
Brake bleeder kit or pressure bleederEssential
Brake fluid catch pan and shop ragsEssential
Brake line plug / cap kit
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Front brake hose (manufacturer-specified, side-specific) × 1 — Tesla Model Y front brake hose — confirm left/right via Tesla EPC
- Copper sealing washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Match banjo bolt diameter — use new washers, do not reuse
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob (and any paired phone key) away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V/Li-ion low-voltage battery (Model Y low-voltage battery is in the front trunk area on 2024 builds — confirm in service manual). This disables ABS pump activation and sentry/cabin overheat wake-ups during the job.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen the front lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the vehicle at the Tesla-designated front jack point using a puck, support on jack stands, and chock the rear wheels.
- Remove the front wheel and set aside on its face to protect the finish.
- Place a drip pan under the caliper area to catch fluid.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and identify the hose runTrace the front brake hose from the hard line bracket on the strut/body down to the caliper banjo fitting. Identify the intermediate bracket on the strut (small clip-retained bracket with a single bolt) and the upper hard-line union.
- 2Pre-loosen banjo boltBefore disconnecting the upper hard line, crack the banjo bolt at the caliper loose by ¼ turn using a 6-point socket. This prevents twisting the hose later. Do not remove yet.
- 3Disconnect the hard line at the upper unionUse a flare-nut wrench on the hard line fitting and a backing wrench on the hose hex to prevent twisting the hard line. Loosen the fitting and allow it to drip into the catch pan. Cap the hard line immediately to limit fluid loss and contamination.⚠Use a flare-nut wrench only — open-end wrenches will round the soft fitting.
- 4Release the hose retaining clipPull the U-shaped retaining clip out of the bracket where the hose passes through the body/strut bracket. Pull straight outward — do not pry against the painted bracket.
- 5Remove the intermediate hose bracket boltRemove the small bolt securing the brake hose bracket to the strut/knuckle. Set the bolt aside; inspect threads for corrosion.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the banjo bolt at the caliperFully remove the pre-loosened banjo bolt from the caliper. Capture the two copper washers (one above and one below the hose fitting). Discard both copper washers — they must not be reused. Allow residual fluid to drain into the pan.⚠Plug the caliper port immediately to keep contaminants out of the caliper bore.
- 7Remove old hoseWithdraw the hose from the vehicle, noting routing and orientation of the upper end (anti-rotation tab usually keys into the bracket).
- 8Install new hose — caliper end firstPlace a NEW copper washer on each side of the new hose's banjo fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug, then torque to specification.⚠Verify the hose is not twisted and that any anti-rotation tab is seated against its stop before final torque.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 9Seat hose in intermediate bracket and reinstall bracket boltRoute the hose into the strut/body bracket in its original orientation. Install and torque the bracket bolt.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect hard line and install retaining clipStart the hard line fitting into the upper end of the hose by hand for several turns to ensure the threads are clean. Tighten with a flare-nut wrench while holding the hose hex with a backing wrench. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reinstall the U-clip fully into its groove.⚠If the U-clip does not seat fully, the hose end is not pulled into the bracket correctly — do not force.
- 11Bleed the affected front cornerTop off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed the caliper at the bleeder screw using a pressure bleeder or two-person pedal method until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Tighten the bleeder to spec between cycles.ℹ️Because the 12V is disconnected, the ABS/iBooster will not cycle. A full ABS bleed via Tesla service tooling may be advisable if pedal feel is poor after manual bleeding.⚠Never let the reservoir run dry during bleeding — this introduces air into the iBooster.Torque specBleeder Screw14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
- 12Leak check under pressureWith assistant pressing and holding the brake pedal firmly, inspect both the banjo connection and the upper hard line union for any weeping. Wipe dry and re-inspect after several pedal cycles.
Reassembly
- Confirm reservoir is filled to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
- Reinstall the front wheel; hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery.
- Close the frunk; allow the vehicle to wake up and complete its self-check on the touchscreen.
Verification
- With the vehicle awake, confirm no ABS, traction control, or brake warning indicators on the instrument cluster/touchscreen.
- With the vehicle stationary and brake pressed firmly for 30 seconds, pedal must remain firm with no slow sink.
- Roll the vehicle at very low speed in a safe area and apply brakes — pedal should be high and firm; no pulling to one side.
- Re-inspect the banjo fitting and upper union for leaks after the first short test drive.
- Turn the steering lock-to-lock with the wheel off the ground (or during a slow parking maneuver) and confirm the new hose does not contact the tire, suspension, or CV boot at full lock in either direction.
- Note in service log: Tesla recommends a full brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage — if the existing fluid is older, schedule a full flush.