Replacement of a single hydraulic brake line on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. This is a standard hydraulic repair — no HV systems are involved — but the brake system must be properly bled afterward to restore pedal feel and ABS function.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• OEM-specified brake line (rigid line or flexible hose, as applicable to the failed section) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified replacement line for 2024 Model Y Performance — match exact length, end fittings, and routing of removed line
• Copper/aluminum sealing washers (if banjo-style fitting is used at caliper end) × 2 — OEM specification
• Brake hose retaining clip(s) × 1 — OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery (located under the frunk liner on 2024 Model Y) per Tesla's published procedure. This depowers the iBooster and prevents unintended pump activation during line disconnection.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Identify which brake line is being replaced (front vs rear, rigid hard line vs flexible hose, inboard vs outboard) and trace its full routing before disassembly.
7. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel(s) while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack points with rubber pucks to protect the battery pack and pinch welds. Support on jack stands.
9. Remove the wheel(s) needed to access the line.
10. Cover painted surfaces and the HV battery edge near the work area with absorbent material to catch any fluid drips.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and photograph routing
   Before loosening anything, photograph the full routing of the brake line, including every clip, bracket, and grommet. The replacement must follow the identical path to avoid contact with suspension, driveshafts, or heat sources.
2. 2

   Minimize fluid loss at the master reservoir
   Open the frunk, remove the reservoir cap, and either cap the reservoir with a sealed bleeder cap or place a clean rag/plastic over it. This reduces siphoning while the line is open. Do not let the reservoir run dry during the job — air ingestion into the iBooster/ABS unit greatly complicates bleeding.
   ⚠If reservoir level drops below MIN, top up with fresh DOT 3 from a sealed container before continuing.
3. 3

   Loosen the upstream fitting first
   Using a proper flare-nut (line) wrench, crack loose the fitting on the upstream end of the line (closer to the master cylinder/ABS module). Loosen only — do not fully remove yet. This confirms the fitting will release without rounding before you commit to the job.
   ⚠Never use an open-end wrench on hydraulic fittings — it will round the soft fitting hex.
4. 4

   Loosen the downstream fitting
   Crack loose the fitting at the downstream end (caliper, hose-to-hardline junction, or wheel-end). If it's a banjo bolt at the caliper, note the orientation of the sealing washers. If it's a flex hose into a hardline, hold the hardline with a backup wrench to prevent twisting it.
5. 5

   Release retaining clips and brackets
   Remove any spring clips that secure the flex hose to its chassis bracket, and unbolt any intermediate support brackets routing the hard line. Set fasteners aside organized by location.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Fully disconnect and remove the line
   Place a catch pan under each fitting. Fully unscrew both ends and remove the line from the vehicle. Immediately cap or plug both open ports on the vehicle side to keep contamination and excessive air out. Discard old sealing washers if a banjo fitting was involved.
   ⚠Expect a small but continuous drip from the upstream side. Keep an eye on reservoir level.
7. 7

   Compare old and new lines
   Lay the new line next to the old one. Confirm length, bend pre-form, fitting types/threads, and any integrated brackets match exactly. A mismatched line can chafe against suspension or driveshafts, leading to catastrophic failure.
8. 8

   Install the new brake line
   Start both end fittings by hand to avoid cross-threading. Use new sealing washers if the design requires them. Once both ends are hand-tight and the line follows its original routing, snug each fitting with the line wrench. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Hydraulic fitting torque is specific to fitting size and type. Do not substitute a generic value. Overtightening will deform the flare and cause weeping.
9. 9

   Reinstall clips, brackets, and grommets
   Reinstall all chassis brackets, retaining clips, and rubber isolators in their original positions. Confirm the line cannot contact any moving suspension component throughout full travel and full steering lock (front lines).
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed the affected corner (and as needed, full system)
    Top off the reservoir with fresh DOT 3. Attach a bleeder hose and clear container to the caliper bleeder screw of the affected corner. Using a pressure or vacuum bleeder (preferred on Tesla, as the iBooster/ABS does not allow conventional pump-and-hold bleeding to fully purge upstream air), bleed until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. If air may have reached the ABS modulator or iBooster, perform a full four-corner bleed in the manufacturer-specified sequence, and use a diagnostic tool capable of commanding an ABS bleed cycle. Maintain reservoir level above MIN throughout.
    ⚠Do not reuse old fluid drained from the system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and contaminated fluid lowers boiling point.
    ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years — this is a good time to flush the entire system if it's due.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Pressure test and leak check
    With the system bled, reconnect the 12V battery, close all doors, and allow the iBooster to self-pressurize. Press the brake pedal firmly and hold for 30 seconds — pedal must remain firm with no creep. Inspect every fitting and the full length of the new line for weeping under pressure. Repeat with the vehicle 'on' (ready) so the iBooster fully energizes the circuit.

Reassembly

1. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3, then reinstall the reservoir cap.
2. Reinstall the wheel(s). Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Reinstall any frunk liner, panels, or covers removed for 12V access.
6. Confirm the 12V battery is reconnected and the vehicle wakes normally.

Verification

• Wheel lug nuts torqued in a star pattern to specification.
• With the vehicle in 'Ready' mode, pedal feel is firm and consistent — no sponginess, no sinking under sustained pressure.
• No active warnings on the touchscreen related to ABS, traction control, or brake system. A persistent warning may indicate trapped air in the ABS module requiring a tool-commanded bleed.
• Visually inspect the new line and both fittings under the vehicle after a short low-speed test drive — no fluid weeping, no contact marks against suspension or body components.
• Perform a low-speed brake test (5–10 mph in an empty area) before any road driving. Vehicle should stop straight with no pull.
• Perform a moderate-speed brake test (25–35 mph) and confirm normal regenerative-to-friction blending and no ABS faults.
• Reservoir level remains stable at MAX after the test drive — a dropping level indicates a leak.
• Log the brake fluid date — Tesla recommends a full brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle