Back to 2024 Tesla Model Y

2024 TESLA MODEL Y

Performance Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
5 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs89Labor371Torque3269Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls5
suspension

Upper Control Arm

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
12

Replacement of an upper control arm on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. The Model Y uses a multi-link rear and front suspension with aluminum components; final torque on control arm fasteners must be set with suspension loaded to ride height to prevent premature bushing failure.

Warnings

⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted directly under the vehicle. Use ONLY Tesla-specified lift points and pucks — lifting on the battery case can puncture cells and cause thermal runaway.
⚠️Do not contact, pry against, or pierce any orange HV cabling routed along the floor pan or wheel wells. If an orange cable is encountered or appears damaged, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Suspension components on Model Y are largely aluminum/forged alloy. Do not strike with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift to avoid cracking castings.
Final torque on control arm bolts MUST be applied with suspension at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels). Torquing while drooped will pre-load the bushings and cause early failure.
ℹ️An alignment is required after any control arm replacement. Do not return the vehicle to service without one.

Tools required

Floor jack with rated capacity for EV curb weightEssential
Jack stands (rated for EV weight)Essential
Tesla-approved lift pucks (puck adapters for floor-pan lift points)Essential
Metric socket set (with deep sockets)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar end link counter-hold)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod separator
Dead-blow or rubber mallet
Breaker bar
Penetrating lubricant

Parts

  • Upper control arm assembly (manufacturer-specified for Model Y Performance) × 1 — Tesla OEM upper control arm — confirm front vs rear and left vs right against VIN
  • Ball joint nut (replace if prevailing-torque/locking type) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y — refer to vehicle for exact trim panel).
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode if accessible via the touchscreen before powering down, to disable automatic air-suspension or self-leveling routines (note: Model Y uses coil suspension, but Jack Mode also disables certain stability functions).
  7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground.
  8. Identify whether the failed upper control arm is front or rear, left or right, and confirm replacement part matches.
  9. Have the new control arm and any required hardware staged before disassembly.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Raise and support the vehicle
    Using only Tesla-specified lift points with appropriate puck adapters, raise the corner (or full vehicle) and support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Never place a jack or stand under the HV battery enclosure.
    ⚠️Lifting on the battery floor pan can puncture the pack.
  2. 2
    Remove the wheel
    Fully remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off. Set aside on its sidewall to protect the finish.
  3. 3
    Inspect surrounding components
    Visually inspect the strut, lower control arm, knuckle, ABS sensor wiring, and any orange HV cabling routing in the vicinity. Do not proceed if any orange cabling shows damage or chafing — consult a certified tech.
    ⚠️Stop work immediately if orange HV wiring is damaged.
  4. 4
    Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
    If the upper control arm path is obstructed by the sway bar end link, hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key and remove the nut. Some positions may not require this — only disconnect if needed.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Support the knuckle/hub assembly
    Place a jack with a wood block under the knuckle (or lower control arm) to support the assembly so it cannot drop when the upper ball joint is released. This also prevents stress on brake lines and ABS wiring.
    Do not allow the knuckle to hang on the brake hose or ABS sensor lead.
  6. 6
    Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle
    Remove the ball joint nut. Using a manufacturer-specified ball joint separator, release the taper. Do not strike aluminum knuckles with a steel hammer. If the joint is stubborn, apply penetrating lubricant and use a proper separator tool.
    Aluminum knuckle — pickle-forking can damage the boot; a press-style separator is preferred.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Remove the upper control arm inboard fastener(s)
    Remove the bolt(s) securing the inboard end of the upper control arm to the chassis/subframe bracket. Note orientation, washer/cam positions, and any alignment marks before removal.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Remove the control arm
    Maneuver the control arm out of the vehicle. Compare old and new arms side-by-side to confirm length, bushing orientation, and ball joint stud direction match before installation.
  9. 9
    Install the new upper control arm
    Position the new arm and start the inboard fastener(s) by hand. Do not fully torque yet. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and start the ball joint nut by hand.
  10. 10
    Torque the ball joint nut
    Tighten the ball joint nut to specification. Use a counter-hold on the stud if it spins; do not over-torque to prevent spinning.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Snug — but do not final-torque — the inboard control arm bolt
    Snug the inboard control arm fastener so the arm is secured but the bushing can still rotate. Final torque must be applied with the vehicle at ride height.
    Final-torquing while drooped will pre-load the bushing and cause premature failure.
  12. 12
    Reconnect sway bar end link (if disconnected)
    If disconnected, reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft's hex with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires fully on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment rack).
  3. With the vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the upper control arm inboard bolt(s) to the verified Control Arm Bolts specification.
  4. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts to the verified Wheel Lug Nuts specification in a star pattern.
  5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
  6. Allow the vehicle to wake fully; close all doors, then open driver's door to ensure systems re-initialize.

Verification

  • Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen (suspension, ABS, traction control, or stability messages).
  • Inspect the ball joint boot for proper seating and the bushing for correct orientation with no bind.
  • Have a 4-wheel alignment performed — Model Y is highly sensitive to camber/toe, and incorrect alignment dramatically accelerates tire wear (already a known Model Y issue).
  • Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps; then at highway speed, verify tracking is straight and no vibration is present.
  • Reminder for the owner: rotate tires every ~6,250 mi as Tesla recommends — Model Y Performance wears tires aggressively due to instant torque and curb weight.
  • Re-inspect torque on the control arm bolts after the first 100–200 miles as a precaution on safety-critical fasteners.

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