suspension
Lower Control Arm
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
14
Replace a front lower control arm on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, so suspension components are largely Lotus-sourced — reference Lotus Elise/Exige Series 2 service data alongside Tesla bulletins.
Warnings
⚠️The Tesla Roadster has high-voltage battery modules and orange HV cabling routed through the chassis. Although the lower control arm is not part of the HV system, do NOT pierce, pry against, or route tools near any orange cable or HV enclosure.
⚠The Roadster uses a bonded/riveted aluminum chassis (Lotus-derived). Do not strike chassis members with a hammer and do not over-torque fasteners into aluminum mounting points.
⚠Service information for the 2012 Roadster is rare. If the control arm geometry, fastener type, or bushing orientation differs from what you see here, STOP and consult the Tesla Roadster Service Manual or a Roadster-experienced specialist.
⚠Final torque on control arm pivot bolts must be applied with the suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushings and cause premature failure.
ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is required after this job. The Roadster is alignment-sensitive due to its short wheelbase and stiff suspension.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10–19mm)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod pullerEssential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly stands (for final torque under load)
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Allen key set (to hold sway bar link shafts)Essential
Pry bar
Torque angle gauge
Parts
- Lower control arm assembly (Lotus Elise S2-based, Tesla Roadster-specific revision) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified LCA for 2012 Tesla Roadster — verify left vs right and front vs rear position
- New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-specified cotter pin
- Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts as required by OEM × 1 — Refer to service manual — single-use fasteners must be replaced
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place transmission in neutral or 1st gear (manual transmission on early Roadsters), and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the auxiliary 12V battery is located in the front trunk/storage area — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location and disconnect sequence.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the affected corner while the car is still on the ground.
- Raise the vehicle using manufacturer-approved jacking points only — the Roadster's bonded aluminum tub can be permanently damaged by improper jack placement. Support on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel and set aside.
- Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling or HV components before proceeding. If anything orange is visible near the work area, STOP.
Procedure
- 1Document and photograph the suspension geometryBefore disturbing anything, photograph the control arm, ball joint orientation, sway bar link routing, and any shims or alignment markings. Roadster alignment hardware is sensitive and reference photos help reassembly.
- 2Disconnect the sway bar end linkLocate the sway bar end link at the lower control arm. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut. Separate the link from the control arm and swing it clear.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Support the lower control armPlace a floor jack under the lower control arm with a wood block or rubber pad to prevent damage. Apply just enough pressure to support the arm — this prevents sudden suspension movement when the ball joint is released.⚠The coil-over strut is under spring preload. Sudden release of the ball joint without supporting the arm can cause the suspension to drop violently.
- 4Separate the lower ball joint from the uprightRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut and discard it. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Use a proper ball joint separator to release the ball joint taper from the upright/knuckle. Do NOT use a pickle fork if you intend to reuse the ball joint, as it will damage the boot.⚠Always use a NEW cotter pin on reassembly. Never reuse a cotter pin.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 5Remove any brake line or sensor brackets attached to the LCAIf the lower control arm carries a brake hose bracket, ABS sensor wire clip, or any harness retainer, release these before removing the arm. Note routing for reassembly.Torque specMounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the inner control arm pivot boltsIdentify the inner pivot bolts/nuts that secure the LCA to the chassis subframe. Note the orientation of any alignment cams, shims, or washers — mark their position. Loosen and remove the pivot fasteners. Support the arm as it comes free.⚠Some Roadster suspension fasteners are single-use. Refer to the Roadster Service Manual to confirm whether these bolts must be replaced.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 7Remove the lower control arm from the vehicleCarefully maneuver the arm out from the chassis. Compare the new arm side-by-side with the old one — confirm bushing orientation, ball joint position, and bracket locations match exactly. Confirm left vs right and front vs rear if applicable.ℹ️Roadster LCAs are Lotus-derived but may have Tesla-specific revisions. Visual confirmation of part match is critical.
- 8Install the new lower control arm — inner pivots firstPosition the new arm and start the inner pivot bolts by hand. Reinstall any alignment cams/shims in their original orientation. Snug the inner pivot bolts but do NOT final-torque yet — the bushings must be torqued at ride height.
- 9Reconnect the ball joint to the uprightInsert the ball joint stud into the upright. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never loosening) to align the next castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend it per OEM practice.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall the sway bar end linkReattach the sway bar link to the control arm. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 11Reattach brake hose / ABS sensor bracketsReinstall any brackets or clips removed earlier, ensuring the brake line is not stretched, twisted, or contacting moving suspension components throughout full travel.Torque specMounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicleReinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so suspension is at ride height (either fully on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment stands that allow access to the inner pivot bolts).Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 13Final-torque the control arm pivot bolts at ride heightWith the suspension loaded at normal ride height, torque the inner control arm pivot bolts to specification. This sets the bushing preload at the neutral position and prevents premature bushing wear.⚠Skipping the ride-height torque step will destroy the new bushings within a few thousand miles.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 14Final-torque the wheel lug nutsWith the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Verify all tools are removed from the wheel well and engine bay area.
- Confirm the cotter pin is installed on the ball joint castle nut and properly bent.
- Confirm the brake hose and any ABS sensor wiring are routed correctly and not under tension.
Verification
- Perform a static suspension check: bounce the corner and listen for any clunks, knocks, or rubbing.
- Inspect the ball joint boot, bushings, and brake hose at full steering lock both directions.
- Take the vehicle for a low-speed test drive in a safe area. Listen for clunks over bumps and verify the steering is centered and tracks straight.
- A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after lower control arm replacement. The Roadster is highly alignment-sensitive — book this with a shop experienced with Lotus Elise / Tesla Roadster geometry.
- Re-torque the wheel lug nuts after approximately 50–100 miles.
- Note: while the suspension is apart is also a good time to inspect brake fluid age — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage, and this 2012 Roadster is well past that interval if not recently serviced.