Brake Rotors - Rear Pair

Replace both rear brake rotors on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so most brake hardware is Lotus-spec rather than Tesla-specific — consult both Tesla Roadster and Lotus service literature when in doubt.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake rotor (Roadster/Lotus-spec) × 2 — OEM Tesla Roadster rear rotor — cross-reference Lotus Elise/Exige rear rotor sizing; verify with VIN
• Rotor retaining set screws × 2 — Manufacturer-specified — replace if damaged
• Rear brake pads (recommended if worn) × 1 — OEM-spec rear pads

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-off only if needed)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P if equipped), and engage parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the Roadster's front compartment / under access panel — refer to owner's manual).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly while the car is still on the ground.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle using manufacturer-specified jacking points only (Lotus-derived bonded aluminum chassis — incorrect jacking causes structural damage). Support securely on jack stands.
8. Remove both rear wheels and set aside on their faces to protect finish.
9. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling routed near the rear subframe before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect rear brake assembly
   Visually inspect the rear caliper, pads, rotor, and flexible brake hose for damage, leaks, or excessive wear. Note pad thickness — if pads are near the wear limit, plan to replace them with the rotors. Check that no orange HV cabling is routed near the work area.
2. 2

   Retract caliper piston
   Open the brake fluid reservoir cap to relieve pressure (place a rag around it to catch any overflow). Use a C-clamp or piston spreader to gently retract the rear caliper piston into its bore to allow clearance for the new rotor and pads. The 2012 Roadster uses a non-electric rear caliper, so no parking-brake actuator wind-back is required for the caliper itself.
   ⚠Monitor brake fluid reservoir level — pushing the piston back will raise fluid level and may overflow if the reservoir is full.
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts (or caliper bolts)
   Identify the caliper mounting style. The Roadster rear caliper is typically retained by slide pin bolts threading into the caliper bracket. Remove both bolts and slide the caliper body off the bracket. If your caliper instead uses fixed caliper-to-bracket bolts, remove those instead. Note which bolts you removed for correct torque on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the caliper
   Hang the caliper from a suspension component using a wire hook or bungee. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — this can damage the hose internally and cause a future failure.
   ⚠️A damaged brake hose can fail under pressure and cause loss of braking.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the rear hub/upright. These are typically high-torque fasteners — use a breaker bar if needed. Set the bracket aside.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove rotor set screw and rotor
   Remove the small retaining set screw(s) holding the rotor to the hub face. These are often seized — use a properly fitting bit and an impact driver if necessary to avoid stripping. Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If seized due to corrosion at the hub face, tap gently around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet (never the body or suspension).
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum upright or chassis. Use only the rotor hat as the striking surface.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Clean the hub face
   Wire-brush or scrape any corrosion off the hub mounting face so the new rotor seats flat. A rotor that doesn't sit flush will cause runout, pulsation, and uneven pad wear. Apply a thin film of anti-seize ONLY to the hub mating face (not on the rotor friction surface or wheel mounting face).
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove shipping oil. Mount the rotor on the hub and secure with the retaining set screw.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads (if specified by the service manual). Reinstall the bracket onto the hub and torque the bolts to specification.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Inspect/install brake pads
    Inspect the brake pads. If reusing, ensure they slide freely in the bracket abutments. If replacing, install new pads per manufacturer instructions, including any anti-rattle clips or shims. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to slide pin contact surfaces and pad backing plate contact points (never on friction surfaces).
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper
    Slide the caliper back over the new rotor and pads. Reinstall the slide pin bolts (or caliper bolts) — apply silicone brake grease to slide pins, and threadlocker to caliper bolts if your design uses fixed bolts. Torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1–11 on the other rear wheel.
13. 13

    Pump brake pedal to seat pads
    Before lowering the vehicle, slowly pump the brake pedal multiple times until it becomes firm. This re-seats the caliper piston against the new pads. Do NOT skip this step — the first pedal application after pad/rotor service will go to the floor otherwise.
    ⚠️Failure to pump the pedal before driving can result in no brakes on first application.
14. 14

    Check brake fluid level
    Top off the brake fluid reservoir with DOT 3 fluid to the MAX line if needed. Reinstall the reservoir cap.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both rear wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close all access panels.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary, press the brake pedal firmly — it should feel firm and high, not spongy. If spongy, suspect air in the system and bleed at the rear bleeder screws.
• At low speed in a safe area, perform several gentle stops from 5–10 mph to confirm braking action and listen for grinding or scraping.
• Bed in the new rotors/pads per pad manufacturer's procedure (typically 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph without coming to a complete stop, then a cool-down drive). Avoid hard stops in the first 200 miles.
• After the first drive, re-check rear wheel lug nut torque after ~50 miles.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — if your fluid service is due, schedule a full flush soon.
• Inspect for any fluid leaks at the caliper and bleeder screw after the first few drives.

More procedures for this vehicle