Replace a single hydraulic brake line on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, most brake hydraulic hardware is Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific, and a full bleed of the affected circuit is required after replacement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Replacement brake line (manufacturer-specified for Roadster — typically Lotus-sourced hard line or flexible hose) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster / Lotus Elise equivalent for the specific line being replaced
• Copper sealing washers (if banjo fitting style at caliper end) × 2 — OEM specification — replace any crush washers disturbed
• Mounting clips / P-clamps as required × 1 — OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P (if automatic), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V auxiliary battery — refer to the owner/service manual for exact location on this chassis). This avoids inadvertent ABS/PEM activity during the job.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Identify which specific brake line is being replaced (front flexible hose, rear flexible hose, or a chassis hard line section) and confirm fitting types at both ends before disassembly.
7. Place fender/body covers over painted surfaces near the work area to protect from brake fluid drips.
8. Top off the master cylinder reservoir before opening the system, and have a turkey baster or syringe ready to remove fluid from the reservoir to limit drainage.
9. Loosen the appropriate wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground, then raise the vehicle on manufacturer-specified lift points and support on jack stands. Remove the wheel(s) needed for access.

Procedure

1. 1

   Reduce fluid in master cylinder reservoir
   Open the front trunk/service area to access the brake fluid reservoir. Use a clean syringe or turkey baster to draw the reservoir down to roughly half full. This minimizes fluid loss when the line is opened. Do not let the reservoir run dry during the job.
2. 2

   Locate and inspect the brake line to be replaced
   Trace the line end-to-end. Note all routing, P-clamps, brackets, grommets, and any heat shielding. Photograph the original routing for reference during reinstallation. Confirm fitting types (inverted flare on hard line vs. banjo bolt at caliper) before proceeding.
   ⚠Note proximity to any orange HV cabling or HV junction housings. Maintain clearance during reinstallation.
3. 3

   Crack fittings loose before full disassembly
   Using a proper flare-nut (line) wrench, carefully break loose both end fittings of the line while everything is still mounted. This prevents twisting the line if a fitting is seized. If a fitting will not budge, soak with penetrating oil and avoid rounding the nut — a damaged hard line union may require additional repair.
   ⚠Use ONLY a flare-nut wrench on hydraulic fittings. An open-end wrench will round the soft fitting and require line replacement on both sides of the union.
4. 4

   Remove line retainers and brackets
   Remove any P-clamps, retainer clips, or chassis bracket bolts securing the line along its run. Keep all hardware organized for reinstallation. If a chassis bracket is bolted on, note its torque spec from the service manual.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Disconnect and remove the old brake line
   Place a catch pan beneath the work area. Fully unthread the upper fitting first, then the lower fitting, allowing residual fluid to drain into the pan. Immediately cap or plug all open hydraulic ports to prevent contamination and limit drip. Remove the old line from the vehicle.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drip — protect HV cabling, painted body panels, and the underbody from spills. Wipe immediately.
6. 6

   Compare new line to old
   Lay the new line next to the removed one. Confirm length, bend pattern, fitting types, fitting thread sizes, and any factory protective sleeves match exactly. Do not install a line that does not match — the Roadster's Lotus-based chassis has tight routing tolerances and an incorrect line can chafe or kink.
7. 7

   Install the new brake line
   Route the new line following the photographs taken earlier. Start both end fittings by hand to avoid cross-threading — never start a hydraulic fitting with a wrench. Once both ends are hand-tight, reinstall all P-clamps, retainers, and brackets so the line is fully supported before final torque.
   ⚠If using a banjo-style fitting at the caliper, install NEW copper crush washers — one on each side of the banjo eye. Do not reuse old washers.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Torque the hydraulic fittings
   Using a flare-nut crowfoot on a torque wrench (or careful feel if a crowfoot is unavailable), torque both line fittings to the verified specification. Do not overtighten — flare seats are easy to deform, which causes weeping leaks.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Bleed the affected brake circuit
   Refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed the affected corner (and others as required by the Roadster's hydraulic layout) using a vacuum or pressure bleeder, or two-person pedal method. Open the bleeder screw, expel fluid until clean and bubble-free, then close. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout — do not let it run dry. Torque the bleeder screw carefully; over-torquing cracks the caliper boss.
   ⚠Bleed sequence on the Roadster should follow the service manual. If unknown, the conventional furthest-from-master-cylinder-first sequence is generally safe, but VERIFY with the Tesla Roadster service manual before relying on it.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Pressure test and leak check
    With the system bled, have an assistant firmly press and hold the brake pedal while you visually inspect both fittings of the new line and the bleeder screw for any seepage. Wipe each fitting with a clean dry rag and re-inspect after 30 seconds. Any wetness indicates a leak that must be corrected before road use.
    ⚠️Do not return the vehicle to service with any visible brake fluid weeping. Brake failure on a Roadster — which lacks regenerative braking redundancy at low speed in some configurations — can be catastrophic.

Reassembly

1. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and install the cap.
2. Reinstall the wheel(s). Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Close the front trunk/service area and any panels removed for access.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary and ignition on, pump the brake pedal — it should build firm pressure within 1–2 strokes and not sink under steady foot pressure.
• Re-inspect both end fittings and the bleeder screw for leaks one final time after pedal pressurization.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area, performing several gentle stops followed by progressively firmer stops. Confirm the pedal stays firm, the car tracks straight under braking, and there is no ABS warning on the Roadster's instrument cluster.
• Recheck the master cylinder fluid level after the test drive and top off if needed.
• Per Tesla's published recommendation, brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the existing fluid is older than that or appears dark, perform a full system flush at this time.
• Log the repair date and mileage. Re-inspect the new line's fittings for seepage after the first 100 miles.

More procedures for this vehicle