Brake Pads and Rotors - Rear

Replace the rear brake pads and rotors on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, so most rear brake hardware is Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake pad set (Roadster/Lotus Elise-spec) × 1 — OEM-equivalent rear pad set — verify against Tesla Roadster service parts catalog
• Rear brake rotors × 2 — OEM-equivalent rear rotors — verify against Tesla Roadster service parts catalog
• Caliper slide pin boots (inspect, replace if torn) × 1 — OEM-equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-off only if needed) — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place the transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V Auxiliary Power System Battery (APS) is located behind the seats / under the rear access panel — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands. Confirm stability before working under the car.
8. Remove rear wheels and set aside.
9. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check level — pushing pistons back will raise fluid level. Remove fluid if reservoir is near full to prevent overflow.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake assembly before disassembly
   Visually inspect the rear caliper, rotor, brake hose, and dust shield. Note the orientation of any anti-rattle clips or pad shims so they can be reinstalled correctly. Photograph the assembly for reference. Check the brake hose for cracking or swelling — replace if damaged.
2. 2

   Compress the caliper piston
   Using a piston compression tool or large C-clamp against an old pad, slowly press the caliper piston back into its bore to make room for the new (thicker) pads. Watch the brake fluid reservoir to ensure it does not overflow. Do not force the piston if it does not retract — inspect for seizure.
   ⚠If the piston will not retract smoothly, the caliper may be seized. Do not force it — service or replace the caliper.
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide/guide bolts
   Locate and remove the two caliper slide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the caliper bracket. Retain the bolts for inspection — replace if threads or shanks are damaged.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove and support the caliper
   Slide the caliper off the rotor. Support it with a wire hanger or bungee from the suspension — DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Inspect the slide pins and boots; clean and re-grease the pins with silicone brake grease, replace boots if torn.
   ⚠Hanging the caliper by the flexible brake hose can damage the hose internally and cause future failure.
5. 5

   Remove old brake pads
   Slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket. Note the position of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or wear sensors (if equipped). Clean the bracket pad abutments with a wire brush.
6. 6

   Remove the caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the rear hub/upright. These are typically large fasteners — use a breaker bar if needed. Retain bolts for inspection; clean threads thoroughly before reuse.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the rotor
   If the rotor is retained by a small set screw or clip, remove it first. Pull the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is rust-bonded to the hub, gently tap the rotor face (not the hub or hat) with a soft mallet, or use the threaded jack-off holes if present. Do not strike the aluminum hub or upright.
   ⚠Do not strike the hub, upright, or any aluminum chassis component with a steel hammer.
8. 8

   Clean hub mating surface
   Wire-brush the hub face where the rotor seats. Any rust or debris here will cause rotor runout and pulsation. Wipe clean with brake cleaner. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub center pilot only — keep it off the rotor friction surfaces.
9. 9

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove protective coating. Place the rotor on the hub and reinstall any retaining screw/clip if used. Spin the rotor by hand to confirm it sits flat.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Reinstall the bracket onto the upright and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install new brake pads
    Install any anti-rattle clips/shims into the bracket. Insert the new pads into the caliper bracket, ensuring the friction material faces the rotor on both sides. Apply a thin layer of anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates only — keep it off the friction surface.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper
    Confirm the caliper piston is fully retracted. Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Apply silicone brake grease to the slide pins, install the slide pin bolts, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat for opposite rear wheel
    Repeat steps 1–12 on the other rear corner. Always service brakes in pairs (both rear sides) to maintain even braking.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both rear wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Verify the brake fluid reservoir is between MIN and MAX — top off with fresh DOT 3 only if needed.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. With the vehicle still stationary and engine/drive system off, pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it feels solid. The first one or two pumps will feel soft as the pistons reseat against the new pads — this is normal. DO NOT drive the car until the pedal is firm.
7. Re-check brake fluid level after pumping the pedal.

Verification

• Confirm a firm brake pedal with no excessive travel before moving the vehicle.
• At low speed (under 10 mph) in a safe area, perform several gentle stops to confirm the brakes engage evenly with no pulling, grinding, or pulsation.
• Bed in the new pads/rotors per the pad manufacturer's procedure — typically a series of moderate stops from ~35 mph followed by a cool-down. Avoid hard stops or parking on a hot rotor for the first 200 miles.
• After the first short drive, re-check that all lug nuts remain at the specified torque and that there are no fluid leaks at the caliper or hose fittings.
• Inspect rear pads and rotors at every tire rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi).
• Reminder: Tesla recommends a complete brake fluid flush every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the fluid in the reservoir is dark or it has been more than 2 years since the last flush, perform a full fluid flush as a separate job.
• All torque values used in this procedure are flagged as critical in our database — verify final torque sequences against the Tesla Roadster Service Manual or Lotus Elise service manual before driving.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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