Replace a front flexible brake hose on the 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so front brake hose routing, brackets, and hardware are largely Lotus-derived rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front flexible brake hose (Roadster / Lotus Elise-pattern, side-specific if applicable) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster front brake hose — verify left/right against the part being replaced
• Copper sealing washers for banjo fitting × 2 — New copper crush washers sized to the banjo bolt — never reuse

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on PEM-equipped units), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery per the Roadster Owner/Service documentation before working under the car. See architecture notes — Roadster 12V location differs from later Teslas.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm which front hose (LH or RH) is being replaced and obtain the correct side-specific replacement plus two new copper sealing washers.
7. Have a sealed bottle of fresh DOT 3 brake fluid on hand. Do not use fluid from a previously opened container.
8. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly while the wheel is still on the ground, then raise the front of the vehicle on a proper lift point for the Roadster's aluminum chassis and support on jack stands. Do NOT jack on the floor pan or HV pack.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side and set aside.
10. Place a catch pan beneath the caliper area and have rags ready — DOT 3 will damage paint and composite bodywork.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect routing and hardware before disassembly
   Photograph the existing brake hose routing from multiple angles: hard-line fitting, intermediate bracket on the chassis/strut, banjo at the caliper, and any retaining clips. Note clip orientation and whether the hose has a locating tab that indexes into a bracket slot. The Roadster uses Lotus-style hose brackets and clip retainers; correct orientation is essential to avoid chafing or stretching at full lock or full droop.
2. 2

   Cap off the master cylinder reservoir (optional fluid-loss control)
   To minimize fluid drain-down during the swap, top off the brake fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3, then seal the reservoir cap vent with plastic wrap and reinstall the cap to create a partial vacuum. This is optional but reduces air ingestion into the ABS unit.
3. 3

   Loosen the hard-line fitting at the chassis end of the flex hose
   Using a flare-nut (line) wrench on the hard line and a backup wrench on the flex hose hex, break the hard-line fitting loose. Do not fully remove yet. If the fitting is seized, apply penetrating oil and work it gently — rounding the fitting will require hard-line replacement.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the retaining clip and bracket hardware
   Remove the U-clip (or equivalent retainer) securing the flex hose to the chassis bracket. Then remove any intermediate brake hose bracket fastener(s) along the suspension. Keep the clip — most are reusable if undamaged.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the banjo bolt at the caliper
   Place the catch pan under the caliper. Using a properly fitting socket or wrench, remove the banjo bolt at the caliper end of the flex hose. Discard the two old copper washers — do not reuse. Allow fluid to drain into the catch pan.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Fully unthread the hard line and remove the old hose
   Finish unthreading the hard-line fitting from the flex hose. Cap the hard line immediately to prevent contamination and limit drips. Withdraw the old hose, taking care not to drip fluid onto the chassis, suspension bushings, or any composite bodywork.
7. 7

   Compare old and new hose
   Lay the new hose next to the old one. Confirm length, end fittings, banjo angle, and any locating tabs match. The Roadster front hoses are side-specific in some production runs — if the new hose does not match, stop and verify the part before installation.
8. 8

   Install the new hose at the chassis end
   Thread the new flex hose into the hard-line fitting by hand to ensure clean engagement (no cross-threading). Snug it, then seat the hose into the chassis bracket with the locating tab in its slot. Install the retaining U-clip fully. Do not final-torque the line fitting until the hose is properly indexed and unstrained.
9. 9

   Install the banjo at the caliper with new copper washers
   Place a NEW copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting (one between bolt head and banjo, one between banjo and caliper). Thread the banjo bolt in by hand, then torque to specification. Confirm the hose is not twisted — the banjo should sit naturally without the hose being wound up.
   ⚠New copper washers are mandatory. Reused washers will weep and may fail.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Torque the hard-line fitting and any intermediate bracket
    With the hose seated and unstressed, torque the hard-line (line) fitting using a flare-nut crowfoot if needed. Then reinstall and torque any intermediate brake hose bracket fasteners.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)

    Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Check hose at full steering lock and full suspension travel
    Before bleeding, turn the steering lock-to-lock with the wheel off and observe the hose for kinking, contact with suspension components, the inner fender liner, or the tire path. Cycle the suspension if possible. Any contact or stretch means the hose is mis-routed — re-route before proceeding.
12. 12

    Bleed the front brake circuit
    Remove the plastic wrap from the master cylinder reservoir if used. Top off with fresh DOT 3. Bleed the affected front caliper at its bleeder screw using your preferred method (pressure, vacuum, or pedal-pump with a helper) until clean, air-free fluid flows. Maintain reservoir level above MIN throughout — do NOT allow it to run dry, or the ABS unit may ingest air. Tighten the bleeder to spec.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw14 Nm (10 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Pressure-test the joints
    With the system bled, have a helper apply firm, steady pressure on the brake pedal for 30+ seconds while you inspect the banjo, hard-line fitting, and bleeder for any weeping. Wipe each joint dry and re-check. Any seepage at the banjo requires fresh copper washers and re-torque.

Reassembly

1. Wipe down all fittings and surrounding chassis with brake cleaner to remove residual fluid; this also makes future leak inspection easier.
2. Confirm reservoir level is between MIN and MAX with fresh DOT 3.
3. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
5. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
6. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
7. Dispose of used brake fluid and old copper washers per local regulations.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary and ignition on, pump the brake pedal — it should build to a firm, high pedal within 1–2 strokes. A spongy pedal indicates remaining air; re-bleed.
• Inspect the banjo, hard-line fitting, and bleeder screw for any sign of weeping after a hard pedal application.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe, empty area: light, then progressively firmer stops from ~10 mph and ~25 mph. Confirm straight-line braking with no pull and no unusual pedal feel.
• Re-inspect the hose at full steering lock in both directions after the test drive — confirm no contact and no twist.
• Recheck reservoir level after the test drive and top off as needed.
• Per Tesla's published guidance, brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years regardless of mileage — log this service date and consider a full flush at the next interval.
• Re-torque the wheel lug nuts after approximately 50–100 miles of driving.

More procedures for this vehicle