Replacement of a front upper control arm on the 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so suspension components and procedures closely follow Lotus service practice rather than later Tesla models.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (Lotus/Tesla Roadster front) × 1 — OEM-equivalent front upper control arm — confirm fitment with VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin — replace, do not reuse
• Control arm pivot bolt hardware (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-spec replacement fasteners as needed

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed/auto units), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V accessory battery is located in the front compartment area — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location and disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster has specific reinforced jack pads on the aluminum tub — do NOT jack on the floor pan or extrusions elsewhere) and support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Inspect the new upper control arm against the old one to confirm correct side and bushing orientation before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the lower suspension
   Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the lower control arm or hub carrier to support the suspension at approximately ride-height load. This prevents the spring/strut from unloading violently when the upper joint is freed.
   ⚠Do not place the jack against any brake line, ABS sensor wire, or ball joint boot.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link routing on this corner restricts upper arm access, remove the end link nut while holding the stud with an Allen key to prevent spinning. Set hardware aside in order.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove cotter pin and loosen ball joint castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen the castle nut but do NOT fully remove it yet — back it off to the end of the threads to protect the threads and to keep the joint captive while breaking it loose.
   ⚠Discard the cotter pin — never reuse.
4. 4

   Separate the upper ball joint from the upright
   Use a screw-type ball joint separator (preferred) to break the taper between the upper ball joint stud and the upright. Avoid pickle forks if you intend to reuse the ball joint or boot — they will tear the boot. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum upright with a hammer to shock the taper loose.
5. 5

   Carefully lower the upright
   Allow the upright/hub assembly to pivot downward on the lower ball joint. Support it with bungee or wire — do NOT let it hang on the brake hose or ABS wiring.
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm pivot bolts
   Note the orientation, washers, and any shims/eccentrics at the inboard pivot points before removal — Lotus-derived chassis often use shim packs for camber/caster setting that MUST be reinstalled in the same order and quantity. Photograph and bag them per location. Remove the inboard pivot bolts and withdraw the upper control arm.
   ⚠If shims or eccentric washers are present, lost or swapped shims will require a full alignment to recover correct geometry.
7. 7

   Compare old and new arms
   Lay the new upper control arm next to the original. Verify bushing spacing, ball joint offset, and orientation. Confirm any included hardware matches what was removed.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm — inboard pivots
   Position the new upper arm at the chassis pivots, reinstalling all original shims/washers in their original locations and orientations. Start the pivot bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum chassis mounts. Snug — but do NOT final-torque yet. Final torque is performed with the suspension at ride height.
   ⚠Threading into aluminum: any binding means STOP and inspect threads. Do not force.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the upper ball joint to the upright
   Raise the upright back into position and seat the ball joint stud taper into the upright. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never loosening) only as far as needed to align the next castellation slot with the cotter pin hole, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect the sway bar end link (if disconnected)
    Reinstall the end link nut while holding the stud with an Allen key. Torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and run the lug nuts down by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground enough to prevent rotation, then torque the lugs in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    Lower the vehicle fully onto its wheels (or onto drive-on ramps that allow socket access to the inboard pivots). With full vehicle weight on the suspension, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolts. This is critical — torquing the bushings while the suspension is hanging will preload the rubber and cause premature bushing failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and inspect for any binding or contact between the new arm and surrounding components.
3. Visually re-check the cotter pin installation, all torqued fasteners, and that no brake line or ABS wire is contacting the new control arm.
4. Verify nothing was left in the wheel well or under the vehicle before lowering completely.

Verification

• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area. Listen for clunks over bumps and check that the steering tracks straight and returns to center.
• Inspect the upper ball joint boot and bushings for correct seating after the test drive.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — replacing an upper control arm changes camber and caster, and the Roadster's Lotus-derived geometry is sensitive to shim placement.
• Re-check torque on the upper control arm pivot bolts and ball joint nut after the first 100-200 miles.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, take the opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and the gearbox oil condition (Roadster transaxle uses 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil — not 'lifetime' fluid).

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