Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its front suspension and uprights with the Lotus Elise/Exige platform, so the bearing is a Lotus-style press-in cartridge — not a Tesla-specific hub assembly. Bearing replacement requires a hydraulic press and is typically done with the upright off the car.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing cartridge (Lotus Elise/Exige-spec press-in bearing) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front bearing for 2012 Tesla Roadster — cross-references to Lotus front bearing
• Bearing retaining circlip(s) × 2 — OEM internal snap ring(s) for upright bore
• Hub axle nut (if single-use) and cotter pin / stake nut × 1 — OEM-specified replacement

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P if equipped), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V accessory battery — see architecture notes; location differs from later Teslas).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points only (the Roadster's bonded aluminum chassis is intolerant of incorrect jack placement) and support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel.
9. Inspect the brake hose, ABS wiring, and CV/axle (if applicable to the front — note: the Roadster is RWD, so the front hub is non-driven and there is no front halfshaft).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the front brake caliper from its mounting bracket. Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee — do not let it hang by the flex hose. Remove the caliper bracket if necessary to access the hub face, then slide the brake rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized, use the threaded jacking holes if present or tap evenly around its hat with a soft mallet.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the brake flex hose.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the upright. Remove its retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from the upright. Unclip the sensor harness from any chassis routing clips so the upright can be removed without straining the wire. Inspect the sensor tip for damage and debris.
   ⚠ABS sensors are fragile — never pry on the sensor body. If seized, rotate gently while pulling.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the hub/axle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin (or de-stake the nut, depending on configuration). Using a breaker bar, loosen and remove the front hub nut and any washer. Note orientation of all components for reassembly.
   ⚠Discard the cotter pin / stake nut — do not reuse.
4. 4

   Separate suspension joints and remove the upright
   To service a press-in bearing properly, the upright should be removed from the car. Disconnect the outer tie rod end, the upper ball joint, and the lower ball joint from the upright per the manufacturer-specified procedure. Support the upright as the last joint is separated. Move the upright to a clean bench. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification on reassembly — refer to Tesla/Lotus service manual for exact values; these are not in the verified torque list.
   ⚠Do not let the upright hang from the brake hose or ABS wiring.
   ℹ️Suspension fastener torques for this vehicle are not in the verified list — look them up; do not guess.
5. 5

   Press the hub out of the bearing
   On the press, support the upright on its inner face with the hub flange facing down. Using a driver that contacts the hub center (not the bearing), press the hub out of the bearing. The inner race of the old bearing will typically remain on the hub.
   ⚠Old bearing inner races stuck on the hub must be removed with a bearing splitter/puller before the hub is reinstalled.
6. 6

   Remove retaining circlip(s) and press out the old bearing
   Using internal snap-ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining circlip(s) from the upright bore. Support the upright on the press so the bearing can pass out the opposite side. Using a driver sized to the bearing's OUTER race, press the old bearing out. Inspect the upright bore carefully for scoring, ovality, or corrosion — a damaged bore will not retain a new bearing and the upright must be replaced.
   ⚠Do not press against the inner race when removing — you will damage the upright bore.
7. 7

   Clean and prep the upright bore
   Clean the bearing bore with a non-residue solvent and lightly polish any minor scoring with fine emery cloth. Wipe clean. A very light film of clean assembly grease on the bore is acceptable; do not use anti-seize that will contaminate the bearing seals. Confirm the new bearing's OD matches the bore.
8. 8

   Press in the new bearing
   Orient the new bearing correctly (note any tone-ring/magnetic encoder side that must face the ABS sensor — typically this side faces inboard toward the sensor; verify with the bearing manufacturer's instructions). On the press, drive the new bearing into the upright using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race. Press until fully seated against the bore shoulder. Install the retaining circlip(s) with the chamfered side facing the bearing if applicable.
   ⚠Pressing on the inner race during installation will brinell the rolling elements and ruin the new bearing immediately.
9. 9

   Press the hub into the new bearing
   Support the new bearing's INNER race on the press (using a tube or driver that contacts only the inner race), then press the hub through the bearing until fully seated. Rotate the hub by hand and confirm it spins smoothly with no roughness.
   ⚠Inner-race support is mandatory here. Pressing the hub through with the outer race supported will destroy the new bearing.
10. 10

    Reinstall the upright on the vehicle
    Reattach the upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and tie rod end to the upright. Torque each to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual / Lotus equivalent. Install new cotter pins on castle nuts where applicable.
11. 11

    Install hub nut and ABS sensor
    Install the washer and a new hub axle nut. Torque to specification, then install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as originally configured. Reinstall the ABS sensor and bolt; route the harness back through its original clips to prevent chafing on the rotating hub.
    ⚠If the cotter-pin hole does not align at spec torque, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot lines up — within reasonable limits. If far off, recheck stack-up.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)

    ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall brake rotor and caliper
    Slide the rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper, ensuring pads are properly seated. Torque caliper and bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Confirm the brake hose is not twisted and ABS wire is clear of the rotor.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Pump the brake pedal until firm before moving the vehicle (caliper pistons should not need to be retracted unless pads were also serviced).

Verification

• With the wheel back on and vehicle on the ground, confirm no abnormal noise when rolling the car a short distance by hand or at very low speed.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for bearing growl or grinding; then at moderate speed listen for a speed-dependent hum that changes with cornering load (a sign of a bad install).
• Verify the ABS warning light is OFF after a short drive — if it sets, the wheel speed sensor is misaligned, the bearing's encoder ring is facing the wrong way, or the sensor is damaged.
• After ~50 miles, recheck wheel lug torque (140 Nm / 103 lb-ft, star pattern).
• Note: this job does not affect Tesla's published service intervals (brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, drive unit fluid initial 12,500 mi then 25,000–50,000 mi). If brake fluid is approaching its 2-year interval, this is a convenient time to service it since the calipers are already accessible.
• Torque on the hub axle nut (250 Nm / 184 lb-ft) is critical — under-torque causes bearing failure; verify the new cotter pin or stake is properly installed before returning the car to service.

More procedures for this vehicle