Brake Caliper - Rear

Replace the rear brake caliper on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4, including brake fluid bleeding and torque verification of all safety-critical fasteners.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM or quality remanufactured caliper
• Brake line banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — 90430-18008 or equivalent (2 per bolt)
• Threadlocker medium strength × 1 — For caliper bracket bolts if removed

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels.
2. Remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using a turkey baster or syringe. Dispose of old fluid properly. This prevents overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight. Place stands under designated jacking points on rear subframe or pinch welds.
5. Remove rear wheel completely.
6. Verify you have the correct replacement caliper for the side being serviced (left or right side specific).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake line from old caliper
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt on top or rear of the caliper. Place a catch pan beneath the caliper. Using a 12mm wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Brake fluid will drain out. Immediately plug the open brake line with a rubber cap or wrap with plastic and tape to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination. Discard the old copper crush washers - do not reuse them.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts (also called caliper mounting bolts or slider pins) on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are typically 14mm bolts. Remove both bolts completely and lift the caliper assembly off the brake rotor and bracket. Note: On this vehicle, the caliper slides on pins attached to the bracket.
3. 3

   Remove old caliper
   With the brake line disconnected and mounting bolts removed, completely remove the old caliper from the vehicle. Inspect the caliper bracket and slide pins that remain on the vehicle for wear, corrosion, or damage. Clean the slide pin bores in the bracket if they will be reused.
4. 4

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove the new caliper from packaging. Verify the caliper piston is fully retracted. If not, carefully compress it using a C-clamp or brake piston tool, opening the bleeder screw first if necessary to allow fluid to escape. Close the bleeder screw when done. Remove any shipping plugs from the brake line port. Lubricate caliper slide pins with high-temperature brake grease if they were removed.
5. 5

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting holes with the slide pins or bracket. Install both caliper mounting bolts by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement. Tighten the bolts evenly to the specified torque.
   ⚠️Improperly torqued caliper mounting bolts can allow the caliper to detach during braking, causing complete brake failure on that wheel.
6. 6

   Connect brake line to new caliper
   Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the brake hose banjo fitting (one washer on each side of the fitting). Position the banjo fitting into the caliper port, ensuring proper alignment so the hose is not twisted. Thread the banjo bolt by hand first, then tighten to the specified torque using a 12mm wrench and torque wrench.
   ⚠️Always use NEW copper washers on banjo bolts. Reused washers will leak and cause brake failure.
   ⚠Do not overtighten the banjo bolt as this can strip the threads in the aluminum caliper body.
7. 7

   Bleed rear brake caliper
   Attach clear plastic tubing to the caliper bleeder screw (located on the back or top of caliper). Place the other end of the tubing into a catch container. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold firm pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Fluid and air will flow into the tubing. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tubing and only clear fluid flows. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding - never let it run dry.
   ⚠️If the master cylinder reservoir runs dry during bleeding, air will enter the ABS system requiring specialized equipment to bleed properly.
   ⚠The bleeder screw is brass and easily stripped. Use the correct size wrench and do not overtighten.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Inspect for leaks and verify brake pedal
   With the bleeder screw tightened, wipe all connections dry with a clean cloth. Have an assistant apply firm brake pedal pressure while you inspect the banjo bolt connection and bleeder screw for any fluid seepage. The pedal should feel firm and hold steady pressure. If the pedal is soft or sinks slowly, additional bleeding is required. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel
   Clean the wheel hub face and inside of the wheel to remove rust and debris. Mount the wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using a star pattern, tighten lug nuts snugly but do not torque fully yet.
10. 10

    Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts
    Carefully raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Using a torque wrench and star pattern, tighten the wheel lug nuts to the specified torque in at least two passes.
    ⚠️Improperly torqued lug nuts can cause wheel detachment while driving. Always use a calibrated torque wrench.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all tools and materials are removed from under the vehicle and wheel well area.
2. Double-check that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the MAX line with DOT 3 brake fluid and the cap is securely installed.
3. Wipe any brake fluid residue from painted surfaces, wheels, and components with water immediately to prevent damage.

Verification

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times. The pedal should become firm and maintain pressure. A soft or sinking pedal indicates air in the system requiring additional bleeding.
• Start the engine and apply firm brake pressure. Verify no warning lights are illuminated on the dashboard.
• Visually inspect the banjo bolt connection and bleeder screw for any fluid leakage while applying brake pressure.
• Perform a low-speed test drive (5-10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper brake function. The vehicle should brake smoothly without pulling to one side.
• After the test drive, recheck all torque specifications, particularly the wheel lug nuts and caliper mounting bolts.
• Inspect the area around the caliper for any signs of fluid leakage. Recheck brake pedal feel - it must be firm and consistent.
• Check the master cylinder fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary. Monitor fluid level over the next few days for signs of leakage.

More procedures for this vehicle