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2.5L I4FWDAUTOMATICgas2AR-FE
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brakes

Brake Pads and Rotors - Rear

for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers the replacement of rear brake pads and rotors on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine, including proper torque specifications and bedding procedures.

Warnings

⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL REPAIR: Brake system failures can result in loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step in this procedure, have the work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands on solid, level ground.
⚠️Do not compress the brake caliper piston without first removing some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Overfilling can damage the brake system.
Brake dust may contain asbestos or harmful materials. Do not use compressed air to clean brake components. Use brake cleaner in a well-ventilated area.
New brakes require a proper bedding procedure. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles except during the controlled bedding process.
Always replace brake pads and rotors as an axle set (both rear wheels). Never replace only one side.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake firmly. Place wheel chocks behind front wheels.
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground, but do not remove.
  3. Open brake fluid reservoir cap under hood and remove approximately 1/4 of brake fluid using turkey baster or pump. Dispose of old fluid properly. This prevents overflow when compressing caliper pistons.
  4. Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points and secure with jack stands under frame rails. Ensure vehicle is stable before proceeding.
  5. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove caliper slide bolts
    Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper (typically 14mm). Remove the lower slide bolt completely, then remove the upper slide bolt. Support the caliper as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling. Hang the caliper from the suspension or frame using a caliper hanger or bungee cord. Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Bolts34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
  2. 2
    Remove old brake pads
    With the caliper hung safely out of the way, remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation and position of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or hardware. Take a photo if needed for reference during reassembly. Remove and discard all old pad hardware and clips.
    Brake pads may be hot if vehicle was recently driven. Allow adequate cooling time before handling.
  3. 3
    Remove caliper bracket
    Remove the two caliper bracket bolts (typically 17mm) that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These bolts are torqued to a high specification and may require significant force to remove. Remove the caliper bracket completely to access the rotor. Inspect the slide pin bores and clean any debris.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove old rotor
    The rotor should slide off the hub once the caliper bracket is removed. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, use penetrating oil on the hub-to-rotor interface and tap gently with a rubber mallet from behind. Do not strike the rotor face. Some rotors have threaded holes that accept bolts to push the rotor off the hub evenly. Remove and discard the old rotor.
  5. 5
    Clean and prepare hub surface
    Clean the wheel hub mounting surface thoroughly with a wire brush to remove all rust, scale, and debris. The hub face must be completely clean and flat for the new rotor to seat properly. Any debris or raised rust will cause rotor runout and brake pulsation. Clean the hub pilot diameter as well. Spray with brake cleaner to remove remaining debris.
  6. 6
    Install new rotor
    Remove any protective coating from the new rotor using brake cleaner (both sides). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, ensuring it seats completely flat against the hub face. Temporarily install a lug nut to hold the rotor in place during reassembly. Verify the rotor spins freely without rubbing.
  7. 7
    Prepare and install caliper bracket
    Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly, paying special attention to the pad contact surfaces where the brake pad ears slide. Remove all old pad material and corrosion with a wire brush. Apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease to the pad contact surfaces (where pads slide in bracket, not on friction surfaces). Apply medium-strength thread locker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the bracket to the steering knuckle and hand-tighten both bolts, then torque to specification in an alternating pattern.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Install new brake pad hardware and pads
    Install new anti-rattle clips and hardware into the caliper bracket according to the configuration noted during disassembly. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the back of each brake pad (non-friction side) and to the pad ear contact points. Install the inner and outer brake pads into the bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the hardware clips. Verify pads can move slightly in the bracket.
  9. 9
    Compress caliper piston
    Before reinstalling the caliper, the piston must be compressed fully into the caliper bore to accommodate the thickness of new pads. Use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool positioned against the piston (use an old brake pad to distribute force). Slowly compress the piston completely into the caliper body. Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood - if it begins to overflow, stop and remove more fluid. This is the rear caliper, which may have a piston that requires rotation while compressing depending on whether the vehicle has electronic or mechanical parking brake integration.
    Some 2012-2017 Camry models may have integrated parking brake calipers that require the piston to be rotated clockwise while compressing. Verify your specific configuration before applying force.
  10. 10
    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the caliper from the hanger and position it over the new brake pads. Ensure the caliper piston is fully retracted and the caliper slides completely into place without forcing. Clean the caliper slide bolts and pins with brake cleaner, then apply a thin coating of silicone brake grease to the smooth portion of the pins (not the threads). Install both caliper slide bolts and hand-tighten, then torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Bolts34 Nm (25 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 10 on the opposite rear wheel. Both rear brakes must be serviced together to maintain balanced braking performance. Verify all hardware is installed correctly on both sides before proceeding.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Remove the temporary lug nut used to hold the rotor. Install the wheel onto the hub, threading all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with the torque wrench to the first stage (approximately 50% torque). Lower the vehicle to the ground, then torque lug nuts to final specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Restore brake pedal and check fluid
    Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm. The first few pumps will move the caliper pistons back into contact with the new pads. The pedal must be firm before the vehicle is driven. Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if needed. Reinstall the reservoir cap securely.

Reassembly

  1. Verify all caliper bolts and bracket bolts are torqued to specification on both rear wheels.
  2. Confirm brake pedal is firm and does not sink to the floor when pressed with vehicle off.
  3. Check for any brake fluid leaks around calipers and connections.
  4. Verify wheel lug nuts are torqued properly in a star pattern.

Verification

  • Start the engine and press the brake pedal firmly. Pedal should be firm and not sink. If pedal is soft or sinks, air may be in the system and bleeding is required.
  • Test brakes at low speed (5-10 mph) in a safe area before driving normally. Verify vehicle stops straight without pulling to either side.
  • Perform proper brake bedding procedure: Make 6-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 15 mph with 30 seconds of cool-down driving between each stop. Avoid coming to a complete stop when brakes are hot. Allow 15 minutes for cooling, then make 2-3 harder stops from 50 mph to 25 mph. This transfers pad material to the rotor surface for optimal braking performance.
  • After 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification.
  • Monitor brake performance for the first 200 miles. New brakes may make slight noise initially as they bed in. Any grinding, severe vibration, or pulling should be investigated immediately.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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