Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

This procedure covers the complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, seal replacement, and reassembly of rear brake calipers on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper rebuild kit (includes pistons, seals, dust boots) × 2 — Use OEM Toyota kit or equivalent
• Brake fluid DOT 3 × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake cleaner solvent × 1 — Non-chlorinated recommended
• Copper crush washers for brake line (if disconnecting) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and place wheel chocks at front wheels
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using turkey baster or extraction syringe to prevent overflow during caliper piston retraction
4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands at manufacturer jacking points
5. Remove rear wheels completely
6. Verify you have a complete caliper rebuild kit for both rear calipers including all seals, boots, and pistons
7. Prepare clean workspace with parts cleaning tray, brake cleaner, and compressed air
8. Have fresh DOT 3 brake fluid ready from a sealed container

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt using appropriate socket. Pivot the caliper upward on the upper slide pin to access brake pads. Remove brake pads and anti-rattle clips, noting their orientation for reassembly. Remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt and remove caliper completely. Support caliper with mechanics wire - DO NOT let it hang by brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Place drain container under caliper. Using 10mm flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper. Immediately plug the brake line end with a rubber cap or clean rag to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove and discard the two copper crush washers from the banjo fitting - these must be replaced with new washers during reassembly.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from line. Have container ready and work quickly to minimize fluid loss and air exposure.
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper body
   Move to clean workbench with parts tray. Place shop rags or wood block inside caliper between pistons. Using compressed air applied GENTLY to the brake fluid inlet port, carefully ease the piston out of the caliper bore. Apply air in short bursts and keep fingers clear - piston can eject with force. Once piston starts moving, you may be able to remove it by hand. Remove piston dust boot from caliper groove. Using pick tool, carefully pry out the piston seal from the caliper bore groove, being extremely careful not to scratch the bore.
   ⚠️Never place fingers in front of piston during compressed air removal. Piston can eject with significant force causing serious injury. Use only low pressure air (30 PSI maximum).
   ⚠Caliper bore is precision-machined. Any scratches or damage to the bore surface will cause fluid leaks and require caliper replacement. Use only plastic or wood picks, never metal tools in the bore.
4. 4

   Clean and inspect caliper components
   Thoroughly clean the caliper body, piston, and all internal passages with brake cleaner solvent. Use compressed air to dry all components and blow out all fluid passages. Inspect caliper bore for scratches, pitting, corrosion, or scoring. Bore must be perfectly smooth and shiny. Any defects require caliper replacement - do not attempt to rebuild damaged caliper. Inspect piston for damage, corrosion, or pitting. Replace piston if any damage is present (replacement piston should be included in rebuild kit). Clean slide pin bores in caliper and inspect for wear.
   ⚠If caliper bore shows ANY scratches, pitting, or corrosion that cannot be removed with cleaning, STOP and replace the entire caliper. A damaged bore will leak and cause brake failure.
5. 5

   Install new piston seal
   Lubricate the new piston seal (from rebuild kit) with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Carefully install the seal into the caliper bore groove using only your fingers. Ensure seal is seated evenly all the way around the groove with no twists or folds. The seal must sit completely in the groove.
   ⚠Do not use any lubricant other than clean brake fluid on internal caliper components. Petroleum-based products will destroy rubber seals and cause brake failure.
6. 6

   Install piston and dust boot
   Lubricate new piston (or cleaned original if in perfect condition) with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Install new dust boot onto piston groove per rebuild kit instructions. Carefully insert piston into caliper bore, ensuring it does not damage or dislodge the seal. Push piston straight in - do not cock it at an angle. Push piston until it bottoms in the bore. Seat the outer edge of the dust boot into the caliper body groove, ensuring it is properly seated all the way around.
   ⚠Piston must go in perfectly straight. If you feel resistance or binding, remove and inspect for seal displacement or debris. Forcing a cocked piston will damage the seal.
7. 7

   Clean and prepare caliper bracket and hardware
   While caliper is apart, thoroughly clean the caliper bracket with wire brush and brake cleaner. Clean slide pins completely, removing all old grease. Inspect slide pins for wear, corrosion, or damage and replace if necessary. Clean slide pin bores in bracket. Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to slide pins (do not use excessive grease). Ensure slide pins move freely in bracket bores.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall caliper to bracket
   Install brake pads and anti-rattle clips in caliper bracket in their original orientation. Position rebuilt caliper over bracket and brake pads. Install both caliper slide pin bolts and torque to specification using torque wrench. Verify caliper moves freely on slide pins when pushed by hand.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect brake line
   Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of brake line banjo fitting (one against caliper body, one under banjo bolt head). Position brake line banjo fitting to caliper inlet port. Install banjo bolt and torque to specification. Ensure brake line is not twisted or kinked.
   ⚠Always use NEW copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks. Washers crush on installation to create seal.
   Torque spec

   Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1-9 for the opposite rear caliper. Both rear calipers should be rebuilt to ensure even braking performance and prevent pulling to one side.
11. 11

    Bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from sealed container. Starting with the wheel farthest from master cylinder (right rear), attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw and submerge other end in container of clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and allow fluid to flow until stream is bubble-free. Close bleeder screw before assistant releases pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles appear. Torque bleeder screw to specification. Repeat process for left rear, right front, then left front. Check master cylinder level frequently and maintain above MIN line throughout bleeding process.
    ⚠️Never allow master cylinder to run dry during bleeding. This will introduce air into ABS system requiring special equipment to bleed. Stop and refill whenever level approaches MIN line.
    ⚠Bleeder screw torque specification is critical. Overtightening will break the screw, requiring caliper replacement. Use torque wrench.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Reinstall rear wheels, threading lug nuts by hand initially. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact ground to prevent rotation. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern using torque wrench. Lower vehicle completely and remove jack stands. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all bleeder screws are torqued to specification and closed
2. Verify brake fluid level is at MAX line in master cylinder reservoir
3. Verify no brake fluid leaks at caliper banjo fittings or bleeder screws
4. Ensure wheels are torqued properly in star pattern

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times. Pedal should become firm and hold pressure. If pedal is soft or sinks slowly, system still contains air and requires additional bleeding
• Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with power assist active
• Check for any brake fluid leaks around calipers, brake lines, and bleeder screws with pedal depressed
• Perform several low-speed brake applications in safe area to verify proper braking function and ensure no pulling to either side
• Test drive in safe area at low speeds (under 15 mph) and verify firm pedal feel and straight, even braking before returning to normal operation
• Recheck brake fluid level after test drive and top off if needed
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving

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