brakes

Brake Caliper - Rear

for 2016 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla with 1.8L I4 engine, including bleeding the brake system.

Warnings

⚠️This is a SAFETY-CRITICAL brake system repair. Any errors can result in complete brake failure, causing serious injury or death. If you are not completely confident in performing this procedure, seek professional service immediately.
⚠️Never allow brake calipers to hang by the brake hose. This can damage the hose internally and cause brake failure.
⚠️Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint. Cover painted surfaces and immediately wash any spills with water.
⚠️After completing this repair, the brake pedal MUST be pumped to pressure before moving the vehicle. Test brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture and degrades over time. Always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container.
Wear eye protection. Brake fluid can cause serious eye injury.
ℹ️The brake system will require bleeding after caliper replacement. A helper may be needed for traditional pedal bleeding method.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Brake line flare nut wrench or 10mm wrenchEssential
17mm socket and ratchetEssential
14mm socket and ratchetEssential
Brake bleeder kit or clear tubing with catch bottleEssential
C-clamp or brake piston toolEssential
Wire or bungee cord for caliper support
Drain panEssential
Turkey baster or fluid extractor
Penetrating oil

Parts

  • Rear brake caliper × 1 — 47730-02240 (Right) or 47750-02240 (Left) - Use OEM specification
  • Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — 90430-14003
  • Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

  • DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake firmly
  2. Remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using a turkey baster or fluid extractor to prevent overflow during caliper compression
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight
  5. Remove the rear wheel on the side being serviced
  6. Spray caliper bolts and banjo bolt with penetrating oil if corrosion is present (allow 10-15 minutes to soak)

Procedure

  1. 1
    Position drain pan and prepare brake hose
    Place a drain pan beneath the caliper to catch brake fluid. Clean the area around the brake hose banjo bolt connection at the caliper to prevent contamination. Have new copper crush washers ready for installation.
  2. 2
    Disconnect brake hose from caliper
    Using a flare nut wrench or 10mm wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the caliper. Allow brake fluid to drain into the pan. Remove and discard the old copper crush washers from both sides of the banjo fitting. Immediately cap or plug the brake hose end to minimize fluid loss and contamination.
    Brake fluid will drain from this connection. Keep drain pan positioned and avoid skin contact.
  3. 3
    Remove caliper mounting bolts
    Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper (accessible from behind the caliper assembly). Using a 17mm socket, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. The rear caliper on this vehicle uses slide bolts that thread into the caliper bracket.
  4. 4
    Remove caliper from bracket
    Carefully slide the caliper off the brake rotor and remove it from the caliper bracket. The caliper can now be removed completely since the brake hose is already disconnected. Inspect the caliper bracket and slide pin boots for damage.
  5. 5
    Inspect and prepare new caliper
    Compare the new caliper to the old unit to ensure correct part. Verify the bleeder screw operates freely on the new caliper by opening and closing it 1/4 turn. Ensure the caliper piston is fully retracted. If not, use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to carefully compress it fully.
  6. 6
    Install new caliper onto bracket
    Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align it with the caliper bracket. Ensure the brake pads (if reusing) are properly seated in the bracket. If installing new pads, apply a thin film of brake-rated lubricant to the pad backing plate contact points on the bracket.
  7. 7
    Install and torque caliper mounting bolts
    Apply a small amount of threadlocker to the threads of the caliper mounting bolts. Insert both caliper mounting bolts and hand-thread them to prevent cross-threading. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern.
    ⚠️Proper torque is critical for brake safety. Under-torquing can allow the caliper to shift during braking; over-torquing can damage threads or cause bolt failure.
  8. 8
    Connect brake hose to caliper
    Install a NEW copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting. Position the brake hose banjo fitting to the caliper inlet port, ensuring proper alignment and that the hose is not twisted. Insert the banjo bolt and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to specification.
    ⚠️Always use NEW copper crush washers. Reusing old washers can cause brake fluid leaks and complete brake failure.
  9. 9
    Bleed the brake caliper
    Attach a clear tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container with clean brake fluid. Have a helper slowly pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn until fluid flows, then close it before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream (typically 4-6 cycles). Top off the master cylinder reservoir as needed during bleeding.
    ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding, as this will introduce air into the entire system requiring complete system bleeding.
    The bleeder screw is brass and easily damaged. Do not overtighten when closing.
    Torque spec
    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Check for leaks and verify operation
    Wipe all connections clean with a lint-free cloth. Have your helper apply firm brake pedal pressure while you inspect the banjo bolt connection and bleeder screw for any sign of fluid leakage. The pedal should feel firm after several pumps. If the pedal feels spongy, additional bleeding is required.
    ⚠️Any brake fluid leakage must be corrected before the vehicle is driven. Even a small leak can lead to complete brake failure.
  11. 11
    Reinstall wheel
    Clean the wheel hub mounting surface and reinstall the wheel. Hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (still supported by jack). Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
  12. 12
    Final brake system check
    With the vehicle safely lowered, pump the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times to ensure proper caliper piston positioning. The pedal should become firm and not sink. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Wipe any spilled fluid immediately.

Reassembly

  1. If replacing both rear calipers, repeat the entire procedure on the opposite side
  2. Dispose of old brake fluid according to local regulations - never pour down drains or onto the ground
  3. Double-check all torque specifications with a calibrated torque wrench
  4. Verify the master cylinder reservoir is at the proper level and the cap is secure

Verification

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal firmly 15-20 times. The pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy or sinking
  • Start the engine and verify the brake pedal does not sink when constant pressure is applied
  • Inspect the caliper, banjo bolt connection, and bleeder screw for any signs of brake fluid leakage
  • Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (empty parking lot) to verify proper braking function before returning to normal driving
  • During the first test drive, verify the vehicle pulls straight during braking with no pulling to either side
  • After the first 50-100 miles, re-inspect the banjo bolt and caliper mounting bolts for proper torque and check for any fluid leaks
  • If the brake warning light remains illuminated or the pedal feels abnormal in any way, DO NOT DRIVE the vehicle - seek immediate professional service
🔧Stuck on this brake caliper - rear? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Toyota within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2016 Toyota Corolla repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Toyota Corolla — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 50 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →