Brake Lines - Complete Set

Complete replacement of all brake lines from master cylinder to all four wheels, including junction block connections and frame-mounted hard lines.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Complete brake line set (pre-bent OEM or aftermarket) × 1 — 01469-TBA-A00 or equivalent complete kit
• Brake line clips and retainers × 1 — As needed per line set
• Brake line sealing washers × 8 — Use OEM specification
• Bleeder screw dust caps × 4 — Replace if damaged

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
2. Ensure adequate lighting and ventilation in work area. Cover fenders with protective sheeting.
3. Gather all tools, parts, and at least 2 quarts of fresh DOT 3 brake fluid in sealed containers.
4. Apply penetrating oil to all visible brake line fittings and allow to soak for 30+ minutes if fittings appear corroded.
5. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at all four corners. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
6. Remove all four wheels and set aside.
7. Photograph brake line routing from multiple angles for reference during installation.
8. Open master cylinder reservoir and use a turkey baster or fluid extractor to remove old brake fluid. Do not allow fluid to drip onto painted surfaces.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect master cylinder lines
   Locate the two brake line fittings at the master cylinder. Use appropriately-sized flare nut wrenches to carefully loosen the fittings. Turn slowly and stop if excessive force is required - do not round off the fittings. Once loose, unthread by hand and allow fluid to drain into catch pan. Plug master cylinder ports with clean rubber caps or plastic wrap secured with rubber bands to prevent contamination.
   ⚠Flare nut fittings are soft brass and easily damaged. Use only 6-point flare nut wrenches, never regular open-end wrenches.
2. 2

   Remove front brake lines at calipers
   At each front caliper, locate the brake hose banjo bolt connection. Place a catch pan underneath. Use a box-end wrench to loosen the banjo bolt, then remove completely along with the two copper sealing washers. Immediately plug the caliper port with a rubber cap or clean rag to prevent contamination. Discard old sealing washers - they must not be reused.
   ⚠Always replace banjo bolt sealing washers. Reused washers will leak and cause brake failure.
3. 3

   Remove rear brake lines at calipers
   Repeat the banjo bolt removal process for both rear calipers. Place catch pans to collect draining fluid. Remove banjo bolts and sealing washers, then plug caliper ports. Keep track of which hardware came from which location.
4. 4

   Disconnect junction block and ABS connections
   Locate the brake line junction block near the firewall and ABS modulator connections under the hood. Using flare nut wrenches, carefully disconnect all hard line fittings from these components. Label each line with tape indicating its original position. Allow fluid to drain completely into catch pans.
   ⚠Take detailed photos of junction block connections. Incorrect line routing can cause brake imbalance or complete failure.
5. 5

   Remove line retaining clips and brackets
   Working from front to rear, locate all brake line retaining clips along the frame rails, suspension components, and body. Use pliers or appropriate tools to release clips without damaging mounting points. Remove any bracket bolts if present. Keep all hardware organized for reinstallation.
   ℹ️Brake lines must be properly secured. Loose lines can contact moving parts or hot exhaust components, causing failure.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove complete old brake line set
   Once all connections and clips are removed, carefully extract the old brake lines from the vehicle. Check routing path and compare against your reference photos. Inspect old lines for routing guides and note any grommets or isolators that must be transferred to new lines.
7. 7

   Prepare and inspect new brake lines
   Unpack new brake line set and verify all lines are included and match the old set. Inspect each line for damage, proper flare formation, and correct fittings. Blow compressed air through each line to remove any manufacturing debris. Ensure all protective caps remain on fittings until installation to prevent contamination.
   ⚠️Any contamination in brake lines can cause complete brake system failure. Never install lines that have been exposed to dirt or moisture.
8. 8

   Install new lines from master cylinder
   Starting at the master cylinder, remove port plugs and thread new line fittings by hand into master cylinder ports. Ensure fittings thread smoothly without cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use flare nut wrench to snug fittings. Do not fully torque yet - allow some movement for routing adjustment. Route lines following original path, temporarily securing with clips.
   ⚠Cross-threading brake fittings will destroy the master cylinder. Always start fittings by hand and ensure smooth threading.
9. 9

   Route and connect junction block lines
   Route hard lines from master cylinder to junction block and ABS modulator following original path. Thread fittings hand-tight first, then snug with flare nut wrenches. Ensure no lines are kinked, twisted, or contact sharp edges. Lines should have slight slack and not be stretched tight.
10. 10

    Install front caliper brake hoses
    Route front brake lines to calipers following original path. Install NEW copper sealing washers on both sides of each banjo fitting. Insert banjo bolt through hose fitting and thread into caliper by hand. Ensure hose is not twisted and hangs naturally. Snug banjo bolt but do not fully torque yet.
    ⚠️Twisted brake hoses can rupture under pressure. Verify hose hangs naturally without twisting before tightening.
11. 11

    Install rear caliper brake hoses
    Repeat hose installation for rear calipers using new sealing washers. Verify routing matches original path and hoses clear all suspension components through full range of motion. Move suspension up and down to check clearance before final tightening.
12. 12

    Secure all line clips and brackets
    Install all retaining clips along the brake line routing path. Ensure lines are firmly secured but clips do not crush or deform the lines. Install any bracket bolts and torque to specification. Verify no lines contact exhaust components, suspension parts, or sharp edges. Lines should be isolated from vibration and protected from road debris.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final torque all fittings
    Working systematically from master cylinder to calipers, torque all brake line fittings to manufacturer specifications. Use flare nut wrenches for hard line fittings and box-end wrenches for banjo bolts. Do not overtighten - this can damage fittings and cause leaks. Double-check that all fittings are secure and no lines are twisted.
    ⚠Overtightened brake fittings can crack and fail. Use a torque wrench and follow specifications exactly.
14. 14

    Fill and bleed brake system
    Fill master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid to MAX line. Bleed brakes in sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. At each wheel, attach clear tubing to bleeder screw with other end submerged in brake fluid in a container. Have assistant slowly depress brake pedal while you open bleeder screw briefly, then close before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. Keep reservoir topped off during entire process. Torque each bleeder screw to specification after bleeding that corner.
    ⚠️Air in brake lines prevents proper braking and can cause complete brake failure. Bleeding must be thorough with no air bubbles visible in expelled fluid.
    ⚠Never allow master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding - this introduces more air into the system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Pressure test and leak inspection
    With system bled, have assistant pump brake pedal to build pressure and hold. Inspect every fitting, connection, and banjo bolt for signs of leaking fluid. Check master cylinder, junction block, ABS connections, and all four calipers. Wipe all fittings dry, then recheck after 30 seconds of held pedal pressure. Any sign of fluid indicates a leak that must be corrected before proceeding.
    ⚠️Even small brake fluid leaks will cause eventual brake failure. Any leak must be corrected immediately - do not drive vehicle.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall all four wheels and torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
2. Lower vehicle to ground and remove jack stands.
3. Fill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
4. Pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should feel firm and high. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air in the system requiring additional bleeding.
5. Install master cylinder reservoir cap securely.
6. Clean any spilled brake fluid from all surfaces with water and soap.

Verification

• Start engine and verify brake warning light is off. If light remains on, check for leaks or low fluid level.
• With engine running, firmly apply brakes and verify pedal is high and firm with no excessive travel. Pedal should not sink slowly to floor under constant pressure.
• Visually inspect all fittings, connections, and calipers for any signs of fluid leakage.
• Perform initial test drive in a safe area with no traffic. At low speed (under 15 mph), test brake response and verify no pulling to one side.
• Perform gradual increasing speed tests up to 40 mph with controlled stops, verifying straight stopping and firm pedal feel.
• After test drive, recheck all fittings for leaks and master cylinder fluid level.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50 miles of driving.
• CRITICAL: If at any point pedal feel is soft, pedal sinks under pressure, or any leak is observed, DO NOT DRIVE the vehicle. Repeat bleeding procedure or seek professional service immediately.

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