suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Rear
for 2021 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear control arm bushings on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic with the 1.5L turbo engine, requiring partial suspension disassembly and hydraulic pressing of new bushings.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠The ball joint separator can cause sudden separation. Keep hands and body clear of pinch points.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension or premature bushing failure will occur.
ℹ️Mark the orientation of the old bushings before removal to ensure correct installation of new bushings.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (2 minimum)Essential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Socket set (10mm-19mm)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator/pickle forkEssential
Hydraulic press with bushing adaptersEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Allen key set
Parts
- Rear control arm bushing kit (both bushings) × 1 — Use OEM Honda bushings or equivalent
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed on frame rail points
- Remove rear wheels completely
- Spray all fasteners to be removed with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint from knuckleRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut using pliers or side cutters. Loosen the ball joint nut but do not remove completely (leave 2-3 threads engaged). Use the ball joint separator to break the taper loose from the knuckle. Once separated, remove the nut completely.
- 2Disconnect sway bar link if necessaryIf the sway bar link interferes with control arm removal, hold the shaft with an Allen key and remove the lower sway bar link nut. Swing the link out of the way or remove completely.
- 3Support control armPlace a floor jack under the rear control arm to support its weight before removing mounting bolts. Raise jack slightly to take tension off the bolts but do not compress the suspension.
- 4Remove control arm mounting boltsRemove both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts that attach the control arm to the subframe. Note the position and orientation of any washers or spacers. Lower the jack slowly and remove the control arm from the vehicle.
- 5Inspect and clean control armPlace the control arm on a workbench. Inspect the ball joint for excessive play or damage. Clean the bushing bore areas with a wire brush, removing any rust or debris. Mark the orientation of the old bushings with a paint marker before removal.
- 6Press out old bushingsUsing the hydraulic press and appropriate sized adapters, press out the old bushings from the control arm. Support the arm properly to prevent bending. Press from the side that allows the bushing to exit without damaging the bore.⚠Ensure control arm is properly supported in press to prevent bending or distortion of the arm.
- 7Prepare and install new bushingsClean the bushing bores thoroughly with brake cleaner. Apply a light coat of soapy water or bushing lubricant to the outer sleeve of the new bushings (do not use oil or grease). Align the bushing orientation marks with the control arm orientation marks. Press new bushings in squarely using the hydraulic press until fully seated and flush with the control arm.
- 8Install control arm to subframePosition the control arm back into the subframe mounting points. Insert both front and rear mounting bolts with any washers or spacers in their original positions. Thread the bolts by hand first. Do NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension.
- 9Reconnect ball joint to knuckleRaise the control arm with the floor jack to align the ball joint stud with the knuckle hole. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the castle nut. Torque the ball joint nut to specification and install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slot and ball joint stud. Bend cotter pin ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect sway bar link if removedIf the sway bar link was disconnected, reconnect it to the control arm. Hold the shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 11Install wheel and lower vehicleInstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the suspension is at normal ride height with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels, but keep the jack stands in place for safety.
- 12Torque control arm bolts with vehicle weight on suspensionWith the vehicle at normal ride height and weight on the suspension, torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This is critical - torquing these bolts while the suspension is hanging will cause premature bushing failure.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will twist the bushings and cause premature failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque wheel lug nutsRaise vehicle slightly to remove jack stands, then lower completely to ground. Torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification in the correct sequence
- Verify the new cotter pin is properly installed and bent to secure the ball joint nut
- Double-check that control arm bolts were torqued with vehicle weight on suspension
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speeds and verify no clunking or unusual noises from the rear suspension
- Check for proper wheel alignment - a professional alignment is recommended after suspension work
- Re-torque all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving
- Visually inspect for any signs of interference or contact between suspension components