suspension
Lateral Arm
for 2021 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the replacement of the rear lateral arm (lower control arm) on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo, including removal and installation with proper torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension to prevent bushing bind and premature wear.
⚠Ball joint separators can damage boots if not used carefully. Ensure separator contacts metal components only.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)Essential
17mm wrench and socketEssential
14mm socketEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pry bar
Parts
- Rear lateral arm (lower control arm) × 1 — Use OEM Honda part or equivalent
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if cotter pin holes are damaged
- Control arm mounting bolts × 2 — Inspect and replace if damaged
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground
- Lift rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer jacking points
- Remove rear wheel on the side being serviced
- Spray all lateral arm fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
- Clean any rust or debris from bolt threads and mounting surfaces with wire brush
Procedure
- 1Support the rear suspensionPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle assembly to support the suspension at ride height. This prevents the suspension from dropping when the lateral arm is disconnected and makes reinstallation easier. Apply just enough pressure to support the weight without lifting the vehicle.
- 2Remove the ball joint nutLocate the ball joint where the lateral arm connects to the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin if equipped. Using a 17mm socket, remove the castle nut from the ball joint stud. Do not reuse the castle nut if the cotter pin holes are damaged or wallowed out.
- 3Separate the ball jointInstall a ball joint separator tool between the lateral arm and the knuckle. Tighten the separator to apply pressure, then strike the knuckle mounting area with a hammer to shock the taper loose. Alternatively, use a pickle fork to separate the joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot if reusing the arm. Once separated, remove the separator tool.⚠If using a pickle fork, the ball joint boot will likely be damaged. Acceptable only when replacing the entire lateral arm.
- 4Remove the front mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt that secures the lateral arm to the subframe. This is the forward pivot point of the arm. Using a 14mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and any washers. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation. The bolt may be tight due to suspension load, use a breaker bar if necessary.
- 5Remove the rear mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that secures the lateral arm to the subframe or chassis mounting point. Using a 14mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and any washers. Again, note the orientation of components. Lower the floor jack slightly if needed to access the bolt more easily.
- 6Remove the lateral armWith all fasteners removed, maneuver the lateral arm out of the vehicle. You may need to pivot or rotate the arm to clear the knuckle and subframe. Inspect the removed arm for damage, worn bushings, or a torn ball joint boot to confirm replacement was necessary.
- 7Prepare the new lateral armUnpack the new lateral arm and compare it to the old part to verify correct fitment. Inspect all ball joint boots and bushings for damage that may have occurred during shipping. Apply a light coating of anti-seize to the bolt threads (avoid getting any on the friction surfaces of the bushings).
- 8Install the lateral arm to subframePosition the new lateral arm into the vehicle and align the mounting points with the subframe. Insert the front and rear mounting bolts with any washers in their original orientation. Thread the bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Do NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension.
- 9Connect the ball joint to knuckleRaise the floor jack under the knuckle to align the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. The ball joint should seat fully into the taper. Install the new or reused castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and bend the ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall the wheelMount the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to specification. This prepares the vehicle for the final torquing step.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
- 11Lower vehicle to load suspensionCarefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the wheels. The suspension must be at normal ride height with the vehicle weight compressing the bushings to their operating position. Do not bounce or rock the vehicle. This is the critical step for proper bushing alignment.
- 12Torque the control arm boltsWith the vehicle weight fully on the suspension, torque the front and rear lateral arm mounting bolts to specification using a torque wrench. This must be done with weight on the wheels to prevent bushing bind. Torque both bolts in sequence.⚠Torquing control arm bolts with suspension unloaded will cause premature bushing failure and poor handling.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification with vehicle weight on suspension
- Verify ball joint castle nut is secured with cotter pin properly installed
- Remove floor jack from under knuckle
- Double-check wheel lug nuts are torqued to specification
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises from the rear suspension
- Check for any clunking or rattling over bumps that would indicate loose fasteners
- Verify steering feel and handling are normal with no pulling to either side
- Schedule a professional alignment check within 50 miles, as replacing suspension components affects wheel alignment
- Re-check all fastener torques after 50-100 miles of driving