1.5L I4 TurboFWDCVTgasturbo
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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suspension

Lower Control Arm - Rear

for 2021 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo, including disconnection of the ball joint and control arm mounting points.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure and handling issues.
Ball joint separator tools can cause damage to components if used improperly. Avoid striking rubber boots or ABS sensor wiring.

Tools required

Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (0-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
17mm socket and wrenchEssential
19mm socket and wrenchEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Mallet

Parts

  • Rear lower control arm × 1 — Use OEM Honda replacement or equivalent
  • Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if damaged or per service manual
  • Control arm mounting bolts × 2 — Inspect and replace if damaged

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
  3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
  4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points
  5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands under rear subframe or designated support points
  6. Remove rear wheel completely

Procedure

  1. 1
    Access the lower control arm
    Inspect the rear lower control arm location. The control arm connects the rear knuckle to the subframe. Identify the ball joint connection at the knuckle and the two mounting bolts at the subframe end. Spray penetrating oil on all fasteners if corrosion is present and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes.
  2. 2
    Remove the ball joint castle nut
    Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut if equipped. Using a 17mm socket, remove the castle nut securing the lower control arm ball joint to the rear knuckle. Keep the nut if it is in good condition, as it may be reusable depending on manufacturer specifications.
  3. 3
    Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
    Using a ball joint separator or pickle fork, carefully separate the lower control arm ball joint from the rear knuckle. Insert the tool between the control arm and knuckle, avoiding contact with the ABS sensor wire and brake components. Tap the tool with a mallet if necessary. Once separated, support the knuckle assembly to prevent strain on the wheel bearing and brake line.
    Do not damage the ball joint boot or ABS sensor during separation. The knuckle will drop slightly when separated - support it to prevent brake line or sensor damage.
  4. 4
    Mark control arm position
    Before removing the control arm mounting bolts, mark the position of any adjustment cams or washers. Take a photo or note the orientation of the control arm relative to the subframe. This will aid in proper alignment during reinstallation.
  5. 5
    Remove the front control arm mounting bolt
    Using a 19mm socket and wrench, remove the front mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe. This bolt typically requires holding the bolt head while loosening the nut on the opposite side. The bolt passes through the control arm bushing. Remove the bolt completely and note the position of any washers or spacers.
  6. 6
    Remove the rear control arm mounting bolt
    Using a 19mm socket and wrench, remove the rear mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe. Similar to the front bolt, this may require holding one side while loosening the other. Once both mounting bolts are removed, the control arm can be pulled away from the subframe.
  7. 7
    Remove the control arm
    Pull the control arm away from the subframe and out of the suspension assembly. Maneuver it around any brake lines, ABS sensors, or other components. Inspect the removed control arm for damage, worn bushings, or a damaged ball joint to confirm replacement is necessary.
  8. 8
    Prepare the new control arm
    Compare the new control arm to the old one to ensure correct part. Clean the mounting surfaces on the subframe using a wire brush to remove rust or debris. Inspect the ball joint stud taper seat in the knuckle and clean if necessary. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the mounting bolt threads (not to the torque-critical clamping surfaces).
  9. 9
    Install the new control arm to subframe
    Position the new control arm to the subframe, aligning the bushings with the mounting holes. Insert the front and rear mounting bolts through the subframe and control arm bushings. Install the nuts on the bolts and hand-tighten only at this stage. Do not torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension.
  10. 10
    Connect the ball joint to knuckle
    Raise the knuckle assembly to align the ball joint stud with the hole in the rear knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to position the knuckle correctly. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench to the specified torque.
    ℹ️The castle nut slots must align with the cotter pin hole. If they do not align at the specified torque, tighten further up to 1/6 turn (60 degrees) to align the next slot. Never loosen the nut to align.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Install cotter pin
    Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud hole. Bend the cotter pin ends to secure it in place, ensuring it cannot back out during operation.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack until the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the suspension but the wheels are still slightly off the ground. This loads the suspension bushings to their normal operating position.
  13. 13
    Torque control arm mounting bolts
    With the vehicle weight on the suspension (wheels near or on ground), torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification using a 19mm socket and torque wrench. This is critical - torquing these bolts with the suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure.
    Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at normal ride height with vehicle weight on suspension. Torquing with suspension hanging will twist the bushings and cause premature failure.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  14. 14
    Final wheel installation
    Lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification, particularly the control arm mounting bolts which must be torqued at ride height
  2. Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and secured on the ball joint castle nut
  3. Check that no brake lines, ABS sensors, or wiring were pinched or damaged during installation

Verification

  • Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises, vibrations, or handling issues
  • Perform a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after control arm replacement - rear alignment will be affected
  • After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on all fasteners to ensure they have not loosened
  • Inspect for any signs of rubbing, interference, or leaking fluids around the work area
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