suspension
Upper Control Arm - Front
for 2021 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front upper control arm on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic with 1.5L turbo engine, including disconnection of the ball joint and mounting hardware.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Torquing while suspended can cause premature bushing failure.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can damage boots on adjacent components. Use care when applying force.
ℹ️Mark the orientation of the control arm before removal to ensure correct installation position.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (10-180 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
17mm socket (ball joint nut)Essential
14mm socket (control arm bolts)Essential
Ball joint separator/pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Thread locker (medium strength)
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM Honda part or quality aftermarket equivalent
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if damaged or cotter pin hole worn
- Cotter pin × 1 — Split pin for ball joint nut
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-designated lift points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed under frame rails or designated support points
- Remove wheel completely and set aside
- Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut and control arm bolts if corrosion is present, allow to soak 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Access and inspect upper control armLocate the upper control arm assembly behind the brake rotor assembly. Inspect the control arm, ball joint boot, and bushings for damage. Photograph or mark the orientation of the control arm for reference during installation. Check for any signs of interference with brake lines or ABS sensors.
- 2Remove ball joint castle nutRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Using a 17mm socket, remove the castle nut from the ball joint stud. Keep the nut if it is in good condition and the cotter pin holes are not damaged, otherwise replace with new.
- 3Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool between the upper control arm and the steering knuckle. Strike or press the separator to release the ball joint taper from the knuckle. Alternatively, use a pickle fork, but be cautious not to damage the ball joint boot if reusing the control arm. The ball joint should separate with moderate force. Do not pry against aluminum components.⚠Pickle fork tools will likely damage the ball joint boot. Use a proper ball joint separator if reusing the control arm.
- 4Support knuckle assemblyOnce the ball joint is free, support the knuckle and strut assembly with a bungee cord or wire to prevent strain on the brake hose and ABS sensor wire. Ensure no tension is placed on brake lines or wiring harnesses.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the chassis. Using a 14mm socket and breaker bar, remove the rear mounting bolt. This bolt passes through the rear bushing of the control arm. Note the position of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 6Remove front control arm mounting boltUsing a 14mm socket, remove the front mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the chassis through the front bushing. The control arm should now be free. Remove the control arm from the vehicle, maneuvering it past any brake components or suspension members as needed.
- 7Prepare new control armClean the mounting areas on the chassis and knuckle using a wire brush. Remove any rust, debris, or old thread locker. Compare the new control arm to the old one to verify correct part. Check that all bushings are properly seated and the ball joint boot is intact. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the ball joint stud taper (not the threads).
- 8Install new control arm to chassisPosition the new control arm into the mounting location. Install the front and rear mounting bolts finger-tight only. Ensure any washers or spacers are in their original positions. Do not torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension.
- 9Connect ball joint to knuckleGuide the ball joint stud into the hole in the steering knuckle. Ensure the stud seats fully into the taper. Install the castle nut onto the ball joint stud and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. The cotter pin hole should align with a castle notch. If not aligned, tighten (never loosen) up to 1/6 additional turn to align the next castle slot.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 10Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. Bend the ends of the cotter pin in opposite directions to secure it. Ensure the cotter pin is fully seated and cannot back out.
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the tires are just touching the ground with full vehicle weight on the suspension. This is the critical position for final torquing of control arm bolts.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith vehicle weight on the suspension (tires on ground but vehicle not fully lowered), torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification using a torque wrench. This ensures the bushings are in their neutral position and prevents premature wear. Torque both bolts before fully lowering the vehicle.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Failure to do so will cause bushing bind and premature failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final wheel installationFully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack. Torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Double-check that all fasteners are tight.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification, particularly the control arm bolts which must be torqued at ride height
- Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and secured in the ball joint castle nut
- Check that no brake lines, ABS wiring, or other components are pinched or stressed by the new control arm
- Repeat procedure for opposite side if replacing both upper control arms
Verification
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock while stationary to verify no binding or interference
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify normal steering response with no unusual noises or vibrations
- Perform a complete four-wheel alignment at a professional alignment shop - upper control arm replacement will affect camber and caster settings
- After 50-100 miles of driving, re-check torque on all fasteners to ensure nothing has loosened
- Visually inspect for any signs of interference or contact between the control arm and other components