This procedure replaces the rear brake pads on a 2012-2018 Jeep Wrangler with 3.6L V6 engine, including caliper service and parking brake adjustment.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake pad set (4 pads total for both rear wheels) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
• Brake hardware kit (clips and springs) × 1 — Often included with pad set
• Brake cleaner spray × 1 — Non-chlorinated recommended

Fluids

• Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake firmly
2. Remove approximately 1/4 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir using a turkey baster or suction tool to prevent overflow when compressing pistons
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
4. Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands placed on frame rails
5. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
6. Spray brake assembly thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe away dust and debris with clean rags

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake components
   Visually inspect the brake rotor for deep scoring, cracks, or excessive wear. Measure rotor thickness if possible (minimum thickness is stamped on rotor). Check brake hoses for cracks, bulging, or fluid leaks. Verify parking brake cable is not seized or damaged. If any components show excessive wear or damage, they must be replaced before installing new pads.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. These are typically 13mm hex head bolts. Remove both caliper slide pin bolts completely, supporting the caliper with your hand to prevent it from falling. Note: Do NOT remove the larger caliper bracket bolts at this stage.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Carefully pivot the caliper upward and off the brake rotor. Support the caliper weight with a bungee cord or wire hung from the suspension or frame. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose, as this can cause internal hose damage and brake failure.
   ⚠Never allow the brake caliper to hang unsupported by the brake hose. Internal hose damage may not be visible but can cause catastrophic brake failure.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads and hardware
   Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the position and orientation of any anti-rattle clips, springs, or shims. Remove the pad abutment clips (metal spring clips) from the caliper bracket. Use a wire brush to clean the pad contact surfaces on the caliper bracket where the clips seat.
5. 5

   Inspect and clean caliper bracket
   Clean all pad contact points on the caliper bracket with a wire brush, removing any rust, corrosion, or old brake pad material buildup. Clean the caliper slide pin bores in the bracket. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake grease to the flat surfaces where the pad backing plates contact the bracket.
6. 6

   Compress caliper piston
   Using a C-clamp or brake caliper piston compression tool, slowly compress the caliper piston fully into the caliper bore. Position the clamp against the piston and the back of the caliper body. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir during compression and remove excess fluid if it approaches the MAX line. The piston must be fully retracted to accommodate the thickness of new brake pads.
   ⚠Compressing the piston will force brake fluid back into the reservoir. If the reservoir overflows, brake fluid will damage paint and surrounding components.
7. 7

   Install new pad hardware and clips
   Install new anti-rattle clips and pad abutment hardware onto the caliper bracket in the same positions as the original hardware. Ensure clips are fully seated and secure. Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to the metal backing plate edges of the new brake pads where they contact the abutment clips (do NOT get grease on the friction material).
8. 8

   Install new brake pads
   Install the new inboard and outboard brake pads into the caliper bracket. Ensure pads are properly seated in the abutment clips and can slide freely. Verify that any wear indicators (squealer tabs) are positioned correctly according to pad manufacturer instructions, typically on the leading edge of the pad.
9. 9

   Inspect and lubricate caliper slide pins
   Remove the caliper slide pins from the caliper bracket (if not already removed). Inspect the rubber boots for tears or damage; replace if compromised. Wipe pins clean and inspect for wear, corrosion, or scoring. Apply a generous coat of high-temperature synthetic brake grease to the slide pins. Reinstall pins into their boots and ensure boots are properly seated.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper over pads
    Carefully lower the caliper down over the new brake pads and onto the caliper bracket. Align the caliper slide pin bolt holes with the slide pins in the bracket. Ensure the caliper seats fully and evenly over both pads.
11. 11

    Install and torque caliper slide pin bolts
    Apply medium-strength thread locker to the threads of both caliper slide pin bolts. Install both bolts by hand, then torque to specification in a cross pattern. Verify the caliper can move slightly on the slide pins and is not binding.
    ⚠Caliper slide pins must be lubricated before bolt installation. Dry or seized slide pins prevent proper caliper operation and cause uneven pad wear or brake failure.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 11 on the opposite rear wheel to replace the second set of rear brake pads. Always replace brake pads on both sides of an axle simultaneously to maintain balanced braking performance.
13. 13

    Adjust parking brake if equipped
    If the vehicle has rear drum-in-hat parking brake, access the adjuster through the hole in the brake rotor or backing plate. Rotate the adjuster star wheel to expand the parking brake shoes until they contact the drum, then back off 6-8 clicks until the rotor rotates freely. Verify parking brake holds the vehicle on an incline and releases completely.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall rear wheels onto hubs. Install lug nuts by hand and snug in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact the ground but weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final lug nut torque verification in star pattern.
    ⚠Wheel lug nuts must be torqued in a star pattern to ensure even clamping force and prevent wheel warping or detachment.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Bed-in new brake pads
    Before driving normally, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times with the engine off until firm pedal resistance is felt. Check brake fluid level and top off with Mopar DOT 4 if needed (do not overfill). Start engine and verify firm brake pedal. Perform 15-20 gentle stops from 30 mph to properly bed-in the new pads (avoid hard braking for first 200 miles). Recheck lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.
    ⚠️Do NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until you have pumped the brake pedal and verified firm pedal feel. The caliper pistons are retracted and the first pedal application will travel to the floor with no braking force.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper slide pin bolts are torqued to specification with thread locker applied
2. Verify brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX marks on reservoir
3. Confirm parking brake engages and releases properly
4. Double-check that all tools and parts have been removed from wheel well area

Verification

• Pump brake pedal 10-15 times until firm resistance is achieved before starting engine
• With engine running, verify firm brake pedal with no excessive travel or sponginess
• Test brakes at low speed in a safe area before returning to normal driving
• Check for any fluid leaks around caliper and brake lines
• Verify parking brake holds vehicle on an incline and releases completely
• Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications (light squealing during bed-in is normal)
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving

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