Brake Rotors - Rear Pair

This procedure replaces the rear brake rotors on a 2012-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK with 3.6L V6 engine, including removal of calipers and brackets.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake rotors × 2 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
• Rotor set screws (if corroded) × 2 — M8 x 1.25

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
4. Remove rear wheels completely
5. Inspect brake pads and replace if thickness is below 3mm or if replacing rotors
6. Have container ready to catch any brake fluid drips

Procedure

1. 1

   Compress brake caliper piston
   Before removing caliper, use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the caliper piston back into its bore. This makes caliper removal easier and creates clearance for new rotors. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal. This will push brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper bolts on the back side of the caliper (14mm heads). These bolts have thread locker applied from the factory. Remove both bolts completely. If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes. Keep these bolts as they will be reused with fresh thread locker.
   ⚠Caliper bolts may be very tight due to factory thread locker. Ensure socket is fully seated to prevent rounding bolt heads.
3. 3

   Support and remove caliper
   Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and rotor. Immediately support the caliper using wire, a bungee cord, or by resting it on the suspension component. Do NOT let it hang by the rubber brake hose. Ensure the hose is not kinked or stressed. The caliper should hang at approximately the same height as when installed.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts (18mm heads) that secure the bracket to the axle flange. These bolts are torqued to high specification and may require significant force. Use a breaker bar if necessary. Remove the entire caliper bracket assembly.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torqued to 117 Nm (86 lb-ft). Use proper size tools to avoid rounding bolt heads.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rotor set screw and rotor
   If present, remove the T30 Torx set screw that retains the rotor to the hub. This screw often corrodes and may strip; if stuck, it can be drilled out as it is only for assembly purposes. Once the set screw is removed, pull the rotor straight off the hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, tap around the perimeter with a rubber mallet or use the threaded holes (if present) to press it off with bolts.
   ℹ️Rotor set screws frequently corrode and may break during removal. Replacement screws are inexpensive and recommended.
6. 6

   Clean hub surface
   With the rotor removed, use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface, removing all rust, corrosion, and debris. This ensures the new rotor seats flat against the hub. Any debris or high spots will cause rotor runout and brake pulsation. Clean the wheel studs and threads as well. Spray with brake parts cleaner and wipe dry.
7. 7

   Install new rotor
   Remove any protective coating from the new rotor using brake parts cleaner (new rotors often have an oily preservative). Clean both sides thoroughly. Slide the new rotor onto the hub, ensuring it seats completely flat. Install a new rotor set screw (or reuse if in good condition) and tighten to specification. The set screw only needs to hold the rotor during assembly.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor and align the bolt holes with the axle flange. Install both bracket bolts and thread by hand initially to ensure proper alignment. Torque both bolts to specification in a cross pattern.
   ⚠️Caliper bracket bolts are CRITICAL safety components. Must be torqued to exactly 117 Nm (86 lb-ft).
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Apply thread locker to caliper bolts
   Clean the threads of both caliper bolts with brake parts cleaner. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the threaded portion of each bolt according to the thread locker manufacturer's instructions. This prevents the bolts from loosening due to vibration.
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the caliper from its supported position and carefully position it over the bracket and rotor. Ensure brake pads are properly seated in the bracket. Insert both caliper bolts and thread by hand. Verify the caliper slides smoothly on the pins before final tightening. Torque both caliper bolts to specification.
    ⚠️Caliper bolts are CRITICAL safety components and require thread locker. Must be torqued to exactly 102 Nm (75 lb-ft).
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 10 on the opposite rear wheel to replace the second rotor. Both rear rotors should always be replaced as a pair to ensure even braking performance.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount both rear wheels onto the hubs. Install all lug nuts and hand-tighten in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tires just touch the ground but most weight is still on the jack stands. Torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
    ⚠️Wheel lug nuts must be torqued to exactly 156 Nm (115 lb-ft) in a star pattern to prevent wheel detachment.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all torque specifications were followed exactly, particularly caliper bolts, bracket bolts, and wheel lug nuts
2. Verify calipers move freely on their slide pins and are not binding
3. Check that brake hoses show no signs of damage, kinking, or stress

Verification

• Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times until it feels firm. Pedal should not sink to floor.
• Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off with Mopar DOT 4 if needed (do not overfill)
• Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area and verify brakes respond normally with no pulling to one side
• Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications (light squealing is normal for first few stops as pads seat to new rotors)
• Perform several moderate stops from 30-40 mph to begin bedding process for new rotors
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving
• Avoid heavy braking for the first 200 miles to allow proper break-in of new rotors and pads

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