Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
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brakes

Brake Pads and Rotors - Front

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.2 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Standard floating-caliper service, but requires disabling regen behavior briefly during initial bed-in and observing Tesla's aluminum-intensive chassis cautions.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. This job does not require HV access — if you encounter HV components, stop.
The Model 3 has aluminum suspension and body components — never strike them with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or rubber mallet to free a stuck rotor.
Use only Tesla-approved lift points with hockey-puck pad adapters. Lifting on the battery pack or pinch welds will damage the vehicle.
Before opening the brake fluid reservoir or compressing pistons, note that fluid forced backward can overflow the reservoir — siphon some out first if it is full.
ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If due, perform a full flush after pad/rotor service.
ℹ️Regenerative braking does most of the stopping on this car — pads and rotors often last a long time but can develop rust/scoring from underuse. Bed-in is critical.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • DOT 4 Brake Fluid (top-up only as needed) — 0.25 qt
  • Silicone brake caliper grease (slide pins/contact points)

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place vehicle in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind the right rear seat back panel area, or under-floor on some 2024+ Li-ion equipped cars — verify before cutting power, as disconnection may also disable the parking brake actuator if depleted).
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. In the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V), enable 'Transport Mode' / 'Jack Mode' to disable air ride leveling (N/A on Model 3 coil — skip) and 'Service Mode' if available to release the electronic parking brake at the rear; not strictly required for front pads but useful if rear service is also planned.
  7. Loosen front lug nuts a quarter turn while wheels are on the ground.
  8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using puck adapters and support on jack stands.
  9. Remove front wheels and set aside on the painted side to protect finish.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and pre-check
    Inspect the caliper, dust boots, slide pins, rotor surface, and pad wear. Note any uneven wear (often indicates a sticking slide pin — common on cars that rely heavily on regen). Check brake fluid level in the reservoir under the front trunk liner; if at MAX, siphon a small amount out to make room for piston retraction.
  2. 2
    Compress the caliper piston
    With the caliper still bolted in place, use a piston compression tool or C-clamp against an old pad to gently push the piston back into the caliper bore. Move slowly to avoid damaging the seal and to prevent reservoir overflow.
    Do not pry against the rotor with metal tools — it can chip the rotor edge or damage the caliper.
  3. 3
    Remove caliper slide bolts and lift caliper
    Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and rotor. Support the caliper with a bungee cord or hanger from the suspension — never let it dangle by the flexible brake hose.
    ⚠️Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Hose damage can cause sudden brake failure.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove old pads
    Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket. Note the orientation of any wear indicators, anti-rattle clips, or shims so the new pads install identically.
  5. 5
    Remove caliper bracket
    Remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are torqued tightly and may have factory threadlocker — use a breaker bar with a properly fitting socket to avoid rounding. Set the bracket aside.
    Do not strike the aluminum knuckle to free a stuck bracket — penetrating oil and patience only.
    Torque spec
    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove the rotor
    Remove any retaining clip or screw if present. Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If corroded to the hub, apply penetrating oil at the hub center and use a dead-blow mallet on the rotor hat — never on the friction surface or the aluminum hub. Some rotors have threaded holes for jacking screws to push the rotor off.
    Do not strike the wheel speed sensor or its harness mounted to the knuckle.
  7. 7
    Clean the hub face
    Wire-brush the hub mating surface until clean and flat. Any rust or debris between the hub and rotor will cause runout/pulsation. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub center and mating face (keep it off the wheel studs and rotor friction surface).
  8. 8
    Install the new rotor
    Wipe the new rotor friction surfaces clean with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil. Mount the rotor onto the hub. If the rotor has a retaining screw or clip, install it. Optionally thread on two lug nuts finger-tight to hold the rotor flat against the hub.
  9. 9
    Service the caliper bracket and slide pins
    Pull the slide pins from the bracket, wipe clean, inspect boots for tears, and re-lubricate with silicone brake grease. Reinstall pins and verify they slide freely. Apply a thin film of brake grease to the pad abutment surfaces (clips) on the bracket.
  10. 10
    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Mount the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to clean bracket bolt threads. Hand-thread both bolts, then torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Install new pads
    Place new pads into the bracket with any wear sensor on the correct side (typically inboard). Ensure shims and anti-rattle clips are oriented as supplied. Verify pads slide freely in the abutment clips.
  12. 12
    Reinstall caliper
    Verify the piston is fully retracted. Set the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Apply silicone brake grease to the slide pin bolt shafts where they pass through the boots. Install slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Repeat on opposite side
    Perform steps 1–12 on the other front corner. Both front pads and rotors should always be replaced as a pair.
  14. 14
    Pump brake pedal and check fluid
    Before lowering the vehicle, with the 12V reconnected and ignition not yet active, manually pump the brake pedal multiple times until firm to seat the pads against the rotors. Top off brake fluid to the MAX line with DOT 4 if needed.
    ⚠️Do not drive the car until the pedal is firm. The first pump after pad replacement will go to the floor — this is normal until pistons take up clearance.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts to avoid cross-threading.
  2. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle.
  3. With wheels on the ground, final torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim.
  5. Close the frunk, ensure the brake fluid reservoir cap is fully seated.
  6. Power up the vehicle and check for any ABS, Traction Control, or Brake System warnings on the touchscreen — clear any transient warnings by cycling the system.

Verification

  • Confirm a firm brake pedal before driving — no sponginess and no travel to the floor.
  • Inspect for fluid leaks at the caliper and bleeder after the first few stops.
  • Perform a manufacturer-recommended pad bed-in: a series of moderate stops from ~30 mph followed by harder stops from ~50 mph, without coming to a complete stop, to transfer pad material evenly. Then allow the brakes to cool fully without stopping on hot pads.
  • On a test drive, momentarily disable or reduce regenerative braking via the touchscreen so the friction brakes do the work during bed-in.
  • Verify no pulsation, no pulling, no grinding, and no warning messages on the instrument cluster.
  • Re-check lug nut torque after ~50 miles — required on Tesla aluminum-hub vehicles to confirm seating.
  • Note service date and mileage. Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — if not done recently, schedule a full flush.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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