Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. The Model 3 uses a forged aluminum front lower control arm with a press-in ball joint at the knuckle and two bushing-mounted bolts at the subframe.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 AWD) × 1 — Refer to Tesla EPC for correct LH/RH front LCA
• New ball joint castle nut cotter pin × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Control arm pivot bolts (replace if specified as TTY/single-use) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual for single-use fastener requirements

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or low-voltage lithium) battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ builds use a lithium LV battery under the floor — verify location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Tesla in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable self-leveling logic and prevent fault codes (note: Model 3 has coil suspension, but Jack Mode also suppresses motion alerts).
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle using OEM-approved jack pad locations and support on rated jack stands. Confirm stability before working under the car.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front aero shield / splash guard
   Remove the lower aero pan / wheel-well splash shield fasteners as needed to access the lower control arm pivot bolts and ball joint. Set fasteners aside in order — the Model 3 uses a mix of plastic clips and small metric bolts.
2. 2

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a floor jack with a wood block or rubber pad under the lower control arm to support spring/strut load. Note: Model 3 uses a coil-over strut, so the spring load is mostly carried through the strut, but the LCA still carries the ball joint pre-load and steering knuckle weight.
   ⚠Do not jack against the ball joint housing — support the arm body only.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link from strut/knuckle (if required for clearance)
   If clearance is needed, remove the sway bar end link nut. Hold the stud shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove ball joint cotter pin and castle nut
   Cut and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the castle nut from the lower ball joint. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required on reassembly.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin. Failure of the ball joint retention is a loss-of-control hazard.
5. 5

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Use a proper ball joint separator tool to press the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a hammer. Once free, swing the knuckle outward and support it so it does not hang on the brake hose, ABS sensor wire, or CV axle.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle dangle on the brake line or ABS sensor wiring — support with a bungee or stand.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — pickle forks can damage the boot if reusing the joint, and hammer strikes can crack the casting.
6. 6

   Remove control arm pivot bolts
   Remove the two pivot bolts securing the control arm to the front subframe. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams/washers — reinstall in the same orientation. If bolts are corroded, apply penetrating lubricant and allow to soak before removal.
   ℹ️Some pivot fasteners may be torque-to-yield/single-use. Refer to Tesla Service Manual to confirm whether replacement is required for this specific build.
7. 7

   Remove control arm
   Maneuver the lower control arm down and out from the subframe. Inspect bushings, ball joint boot, and the subframe mounting points. Compare the new arm to the old arm to confirm correct part number and side (LH vs RH).
8. 8

   Install new lower control arm
   Position the new arm into the subframe brackets. Hand-thread both pivot bolts in the original orientation. Do NOT fully torque yet — the bushings must be torqued at ride height to prevent pre-stress.
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to steering knuckle
   Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to the verified specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the slot with the cotter pin hole — do not loosen to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM practice.
   ⚠️Cotter pin MUST be installed and properly bent. A missing or reused cotter pin can allow the ball joint to separate.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link (if disconnected)
    Reattach the sway bar end link. Hold the ball stud shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to the verified specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Snug pivot bolts (do not final torque yet)
    Snug the two control arm pivot bolts to hold the arm in place but leave them less than final torque. Final torque happens with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts, then snug in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle so the full vehicle weight is on the suspension (ramps or drive-on stands work well, or lower fully to the ground).
13. 13

    Final torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the suspension fully loaded at normal ride height, final-torque both control arm pivot bolts to the verified specification. This is critical for bushing longevity.
    ⚠Torquing these bolts with the suspension hanging will damage the bushing and cause premature failure.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final torque wheel lug nuts
    Torque the wheel lug nuts to the verified specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front aero pan / splash shield. Replace any broken plastic clips — missing clips affect aero efficiency and range on Model 3.
2. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery.
3. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to wake. Verify no suspension, ABS, or stability control fault messages on the touchscreen.
4. Exit Jack Mode if it was engaged.

Verification

• Perform a 4-wheel alignment — required after any control arm replacement. Camber and toe will have changed.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks, popping, or steering pull. Check that steering is centered.
• Re-check lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles.
• Inspect the new ball joint cotter pin visually after the test drive to confirm it is still properly seated and bent.
• Note: while the vehicle is on a lift for alignment, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla's recommended service intervals — brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years, drive unit gear oil per the current Tesla recommendation (initial 12,500 mi then 25,000–50,000 mi), and tire rotation every ~6,250 mi.

More procedures for this vehicle