suspension
Sway Bar Bushing - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
30 min
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replace the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The bushings are held by two brackets that clamp the sway bar to the rear subframe; this is a straightforward suspension job once the rear of the vehicle is safely lifted.
Warnings
⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted directly under this work area. Do NOT place a jack or jack stand anywhere except the factory-designated lift points. Striking or piercing the HV pack can cause fire, electrocution, or death.
⚠️If you see any orange cabling near the work area, STOP. Do not cut, pull, or pierce it under any circumstances.
⚠Model 3 has a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension or subframe components with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or rubber mallet if persuasion is needed.
⚠The rear sway bar may be under preload. Support the bar before fully removing the bracket bolts so it does not drop.
ℹ️Inspect the sway bar end links and their bushings while the area is exposed; replace if torn or sloppy.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for EV weight (2+ tons)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (puck adapters for Model 3 lift points)Essential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar end link shafts if disturbed)
Pry bar
Silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water
Wire brush
Parts
- Rear sway bar bushings (matched pair, correct diameter for this vehicle's bar) × 2 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear sway bar bushing — confirm bar diameter before ordering
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically a Li-ion unit — locate per the architecture notes (behind right rear seat back panel on most years; some 2024+ have lithium 12V under floor). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence to avoid waking the vehicle.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen if accessible before disconnecting 12V (this disables auto-leveling and prevents the car from waking on lift).
- Loosen the rear lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle ONLY at the manufacturer-designated lift points using approved puck adapters. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Remove both rear wheels to gain access to the sway bar bracket area.
- Inspect the work area for any orange HV cabling or HV components before proceeding. If present and in the way, STOP.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and photograph the rear sway bar assemblyTake reference photos of the sway bar, brackets, end links, and bushing orientation. Note any directional features on the bushings (split location, tab orientation). This makes reinstallation correct and matches the original geometry.
- 2Remove any underbody shielding blocking access (if applicable)If a rear underbody aero panel or splash shield obstructs access to the sway bar brackets, remove only the fasteners necessary. Set hardware aside organized by location. Do not remove HV pack shielding.⚠Do not remove fasteners that secure the HV battery pack or its underbody armor.
- 3Support the sway barPlace a transmission jack, secondary floor jack, or sturdy support under the center of the sway bar. Apply just enough pressure to hold the bar in place once the brackets are loose. This prevents the bar from dropping or twisting unexpectedly.
- 4Disconnect sway bar end links from the bar (if required for clearance)On many Model 3 rear setups the bar can be lowered enough with the end links still attached. If clearance is insufficient, disconnect the end link from the sway bar end. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.⚠If the ball stud spins, the only correct fix is to hold the shaft with an Allen key — do not grip the stud with pliers.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 5Remove the sway bar bracket boltsUnbolt both rear sway bar brackets from the subframe. Keep the bolts organized left/right. Lower the sway bar just enough to slide the old bushings off — full removal of the bar is usually not required.
- 6Remove the old bushingsSlide the old bushings off the bar. Note their orientation (split seam location, any flats or tabs). Clean the bar where the bushings sit using a wire brush — remove rust, old rubber residue, and grit. Inspect the bar surface for wear grooves or damage.ℹ️If the bar shows deep grooves where the old bushings rode, new bushings will wear quickly — consider whether a damaged bar should be replaced.
- 7Install the new bushingsApply a thin film of silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water to the inner bore of the new bushings (do NOT use petroleum-based grease — it degrades rubber). Slide the bushings onto the bar in the same orientation as the originals, with the split seam positioned per the manufacturer's specification (typically facing forward or upward, away from road spray).⚠Never use petroleum grease on rubber suspension bushings — it will swell and destroy them.
- 8Reposition the sway bar and install bracketsRaise the bar back into position with the support jack. Align each bushing into its bracket and start both bracket bolts by hand on each side before tightening either — this prevents misalignment. Ensure the bushings seat fully in the brackets without pinching.
- 9Torque the sway bar bracket boltsTighten the sway bar bracket bolts evenly, alternating sides, to the verified specification. This is a critical fastener — use a calibrated torque wrench.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect sway bar end links (if disconnected)If the end links were disconnected, reattach them now. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to the verified specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Remove the support jack from under the sway bar.
- Reinstall any underbody shielding that was removed, using the original fasteners in their original locations. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- Reinstall both rear wheels. Snug the lug nuts by hand in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery following Tesla's reconnection sequence.
- Close all doors and allow the vehicle to fully wake and re-initialize before driving.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, visually confirm both bushings are fully seated in their brackets with no pinched rubber.
- Confirm bracket bolts and end link nuts are torqued to spec using a calibrated torque wrench (not just 'tight').
- Check the touchscreen for any new suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts after the first wake cycle.
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps or during sharp turns. A properly installed sway bar bushing is silent.
- After approximately 100 miles, re-check the bracket bolt torque — fresh rubber bushings can settle slightly.
- Lug Nut Torque: 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in star pattern — verify after the first 50–100 miles, per Tesla's published guidance.
- While the vehicle is up on stands, this is a good opportunity to check tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi) and inspect brake pads. Brake fluid service is due every 2 years on this vehicle regardless of mileage.