suspension
Sway Bar Link - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Easy
Time
30 min
Tools
10
Steps
9
Replacement of a rear sway bar end link on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Straightforward suspension job requiring wheel removal and access from below; no HV systems involved.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands placed on the manufacturer-specified lift points. The Model 3 weighs ~4,000+ lb due to the floor-mounted HV pack.
⚠️The HV battery pack runs the length of the floor. Do NOT place jack stands or jacks anywhere except the designated lift points or you risk puncturing the HV pack — this can cause fire or electrocution.
⚠Model 3 has aluminum suspension components in places. Do not strike suspension parts with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is needed.
⚠Hold the link stud with an Allen/hex key while loosening or torquing the nut — spinning the stud will destroy the new link's internal joint.
ℹ️If the old link's stud spins and the nut won't break free, cut the link rather than damaging the sway bar bushings or new replacement.
Tools required
Floor jack rated for EV weight (2+ ton)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (puck adapters for pinch-weld lift points)Essential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen / hex key set (to hold link stud while loosening nut)Essential
Breaker bar
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Parts
- Rear sway bar end link assembly (Model 3 rear-specific) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear sway bar link for 2024 Model 3 — refer to VIN-matched parts catalog
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ units use an under-floor lithium 12V — verify location for your specific build before disconnecting.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated lift points and support on rated jack stands. Confirm vehicle stability before going underneath.
- Remove the rear wheel on the side being serviced.
- Inspect the new sway bar link out of the box — confirm it matches the original in length, bushing/ball-joint orientation, and stud size before installation.
Procedure
- 1Locate the rear sway bar end linkWith the wheel removed, locate the rear sway bar end link connecting the rear sway bar to the suspension knuckle/control arm. The link is a short vertical rod with a ball joint or bushed eye at each end.
- 2Clean and pre-treat fastenersWire-brush both link nuts (upper and lower) to expose the hex flats and the central stud hex/Allen socket. Apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak for several minutes. Road salt and brake dust commonly seize these nuts.
- 3Remove the upper sway bar link nutInsert an Allen/hex key into the end of the link's stud to hold it stationary. Use a wrench to remove the nut. If the stud spins despite holding it, plan to cut the link with a cutoff tool rather than damage adjacent components.⚠Do not use an impact gun on a spinning stud — you will gall the joint and risk launching debris.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Remove the lower sway bar link nutRepeat the same procedure on the lower mounting point. Hold the stud with the Allen key and back the nut off. Support the link by hand as the second nut comes free so it doesn't drop.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 5Remove the old linkWithdraw the old link from both mounting points. Inspect the mating surfaces on the sway bar and knuckle/control arm for wear, elongation, or corrosion. Inspect the sway bar bushings and brackets while you have access — replace if cracked or worn.
- 6Compare old vs newLay the old link next to the new link. Confirm overall length, stud thread size, and orientation match exactly. A mismatched link can cause sway bar preload, contact with adjacent components, or fail prematurely.
- 7Install the new linkInsert the new link studs into the sway bar and the lower mounting point. Hand-thread both nuts onto the studs to ensure clean thread engagement. Do not use power tools to seat the nuts.
- 8Torque the link nutsHold each stud stationary with an Allen/hex key and torque the nuts to specification. Torque both upper and lower nuts to the verified spec. Verify no part of the link contacts the half-shaft, brake line, ABS sensor wiring, or air spring (N/A on Model 3 coil) at any point in the suspension's travel.⚠If the new link uses a through-bolt design rather than studs (varies by supplier), torque to the manufacturer-specified value for that fastener — refer to Tesla Service Manual.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 9Final inspection underbodyVerify both sway bar bracket bolts are still tight and that no wiring or brake hardware was disturbed. Confirm the ABS sensor harness routing on the knuckle is clipped and clear of the link.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any torque.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim that was removed for access.
- Open and close a door, then allow the vehicle to wake fully. Check the touchscreen for any new alerts (suspension, ABS, or stability control faults).
Verification
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps or during turns — a properly installed link will be silent.
- Perform moderate cornering on a clear road; the rear should feel planted with no body roll knocking sounds.
- Inspect the link visually after the test drive — confirm nuts are still seated and no contact marks are present on adjacent components.
- Check the touchscreen for stability control, ABS, or chassis fault messages. None should be present.
- Note: While the vehicle is up, this is a good time to consider Tesla's actual (non-marketing) service intervals — rear drive unit gear oil service (12,500 mi initial, then 25,000–50,000 mi), brake fluid every 2 years, and cabin air filter every 2 years. Tire rotation every ~6,250 mi is also recommended given the Model 3's weight and instant torque.