Replacement of a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The front hub assembly must be removed from the steering knuckle and the bearing pressed out and replaced; this is an advanced job requiring a hydraulic press or on-car bearing puller kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in type, manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 LR AWD) × 1 — OEM front wheel bearing — confirm with Tesla parts catalog by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut or new cotter pin/stake nut as applicable
• Hub-to-knuckle bolts (if specified single-use) × 4 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual for reuse policy

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place the vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ builds use a lithium 12V unit under the rear floor — confirm before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
5. Loosen (but do not remove) the wheel lug nuts on the affected front wheel while the vehicle is on the ground.
6. With the wheel still on the ground, have an assistant firmly apply the brake pedal and break loose the axle nut (250 Nm installed torque — it will be very tight). Do not remove yet.
7. Chock the rear wheels, raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points, and support on jack stands. Never lift on the battery pack.
8. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut
   Remove the (now loosened) axle nut from the end of the front half-shaft. If a cotter pin or stake is present, remove it first. Discard the nut — a new one is required for reassembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Carefully remove the sensor retaining bolt and pull the sensor straight out of its bore. Unclip the harness from any knuckle/strut retainers and set aside so it is not strained or pulled during knuckle manipulation.
   ⚠If the sensor is seized in the bore, work it out gently with penetrating oil — prying or twisting can break the sensor tip inside the knuckle.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the brake caliper bracket bolts and lift the caliper assembly off the rotor. Support the caliper with wire — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub. Inspect for corrosion between rotor hat and hub face.
   ℹ️Torque values for the caliper bracket and caliper guide bolts are not listed here — torque to OEM specification on reassembly. Refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. 4

   Separate outer tie rod and (if required) upper control arm
   To gain clearance to remove the knuckle or push out the half-shaft, separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Depending on chosen workflow (knuckle-off vs. on-car bearing service), you may also need to separate the upper control arm ball joint from the knuckle. Use a press-type separator — avoid pickle forks on aluminum components to prevent boot/ball-joint damage.
   ⚠Mark any eccentric alignment cams before disturbing suspension fasteners so alignment is preserved as closely as possible. A four-wheel alignment is still recommended after this job.
5. 5

   Push half-shaft out of hub
   Using a hub puller or by gently tapping the splined end of the half-shaft inward with a brass drift, free the outer CV stub from the hub splines. Once free, swing the knuckle outward and support the half-shaft horizontally with wire or a bungee — do not let it hang by the inner CV joint.
   ⚠If the splines are seized, do NOT strike the threaded end directly — thread the old axle nut on flush to protect the threads, then tap.
6. 6

   Remove hub assembly from knuckle
   From the back side of the knuckle, remove the four hub-to-knuckle bolts retaining the hub/bearing flange to the steering knuckle. Withdraw the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle. If the hub is seized in the knuckle bore, use a slide hammer with hub adapter — do not pry against the knuckle's aluminum machined surfaces.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the steering knuckle (press-bench workflow) — optional
   If pressing on a bench, remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and any remaining suspension attachments to free the knuckle from the vehicle. Note orientation. Skip this step if using an on-car bearing puller/installer tool.
   ℹ️Torque values for ball joint pinch bolts and strut-to-knuckle bolts are not listed here — torque to OEM specification on reassembly.
8. 8

   Press out the old bearing
   Using a hydraulic press (or on-car bearing tool kit), support the knuckle squarely on the press bed using a bearing race plate that bears only on the outer race seat — never on the aluminum knuckle face. Press the old bearing out toward the side specified by the bearing's snap-ring/retainer arrangement. Remove any internal snap ring first if present. Inspect the knuckle bore for galling, cracks, or oversize wear — replace the knuckle if damaged.
   ⚠️A bearing under press load can release violently. Keep hands clear, wear eye protection, and use a press shield.
   ⚠Do not press on the inner race when removing/installing — only the outer race contacts the knuckle bore.
9. 9

   Clean and prep knuckle bore
   Thoroughly clean the knuckle bore with a non-abrasive method (Scotch-Brite, brake cleaner). Do not use sandpaper or abrasive wheels — removing material changes the press fit. Apply a light film of clean assembly lube or anti-seize to the bore as specified by the bearing manufacturer.
10. 10

    Press in new bearing
    Orient the new bearing per its directional markings (some bearings have a magnetic ABS encoder ring on one side that must face the sensor). Press the new bearing into the knuckle bore using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race. Press fully home until seated against the shoulder or until the snap ring groove is exposed. Install retaining snap ring if applicable.
    ⚠Installing the bearing backwards will disable the ABS / stability control because the encoder ring will not be read by the sensor.
11. 11

    Reinstall hub flange into bearing
    Press the hub flange into the new bearing's inner race, supporting the inner race only (never the outer race or knuckle) during this press. Verify the hub spins freely with no roughness or excessive drag.

Reassembly

1. If the knuckle was removed, reinstall it to the strut and lower ball joint. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Reinstall the hub-to-knuckle bolts and torque to spec.
3. Reconnect the upper control arm and outer tie rod end. Torque to OEM specification.
4. Slide the half-shaft outer stub back through the hub splines. Install a NEW axle nut finger-tight.
5. Reinstall the brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper. Torque caliper hardware to OEM specification.
6. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor with a small amount of anti-seize on the sensor body (not the tip). Torque the sensor bolt.
7. Reroute and re-clip the ABS harness exactly as removed — it must not contact the rotor, half-shaft, or tire.
8. Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
9. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (suspension still partially unloaded but wheel cannot spin).
10. Torque the axle nut to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) — CRITICAL. Stake the nut or install a new cotter pin as applicable to this build.
11. Lower the vehicle fully and torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft).
12. Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push and pull on the wheel at 12/6 and 9/3 — there should be zero perceptible play.
• Spin the wheel by hand (off the ground) and listen — there should be no grinding, ticking, or roughness from the bearing.
• Power on the vehicle. Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings appear on the touchscreen — a warning typically indicates the bearing was installed backwards (encoder ring facing wrong way) or the ABS sensor is unseated/damaged.
• Road test at low speed first, listening for bearing noise. Then test at 40–60 mph; confirm no humming or growling that changes with steering input.
• Apply brakes firmly at low speed to verify ABS does not falsely trigger and pedal feel is normal.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed — any front suspension disassembly on a Model 3 warrants alignment verification.
• Re-torque the axle nut and lug nuts after approximately 50–100 miles of driving as a safety check.
• While the vehicle is in the air, this is a good opportunity to inspect items on Tesla's real (not marketing) service schedule: brake fluid condition (replace every 2 years), tire wear/rotation interval (every 6,250 mi), and front drive unit gear oil if due (12,500 mi initial, then every 25,000–50,000 mi).

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