Replace the lower ball joint on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. On this generation Model S, the front lower ball joint is integrated into the lower control arm assembly on most builds — verify your specific arm allows separate ball joint service before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower ball joint (or complete lower control arm if non-serviceable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model S LR AWD — verify by VIN
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• New steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — OEM-spec single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. Some 2024 builds use a 16V Li-ion unit — same procedure, observe terminal polarity.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place service mode if accessible via touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling (Performance/Plaid trims with air suspension). For coil-spring LR trims this is not required.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
9. Confirm the replacement ball joint or full lower control arm matches your VIN build before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Lift and support vehicle
   Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved aluminum-safe lift pads at the designated front jack points. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight. Verify stability before working underneath.
   ⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. The Model S curb weight exceeds 4,500 lb.
2. 2

   Remove front wheel
   Fully remove the front wheel lug nuts and pull the wheel. Set aside on its sidewall to protect the finish.
3. 3

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the suspension assembly before disassembly. Note the orientation of the ball joint stud, any shims, the brake hose routing, and the ABS/wheel speed sensor harness clip locations. This will speed reassembly significantly.
4. 4

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a floor jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint to support it. This prevents the arm from dropping suddenly when the ball joint is separated and keeps spring/strut tension controlled.
   ⚠On coil-spring LR trims, the strut spring is preloaded. Do not disconnect the strut tower nuts at this stage.
5. 5

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if required for clearance)
   If access requires, unbolt the sway bar end link from the lower control arm. Hold the inner shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent stud spin.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Release the steering knuckle pinch bolt
   Locate the pinch bolt that clamps the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle (if so equipped on this build) OR locate the castle nut on the ball joint stud. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the castle nut. Loosen — but do not yet fully remove — the castle nut so the stud cannot drop out unexpectedly during separation.
   ⚠Single-use fastener — discard the old pinch bolt and old cotter pin. Do not reuse.
7. 7

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Use a press-style ball joint separator (preferred) to push the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools where possible — they can damage the new boot if it is pre-installed and can mar aluminum surfaces. Once broken loose, fully remove the castle nut and lower the knuckle off the stud. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor harness.
   ⚠Do NOT let the steering knuckle hang by the brake flex hose or ABS wiring — tie it up with a bungee or wire to the strut.
8. 8

   Remove ball joint or control arm
   If the ball joint is serviceable separately: remove its retaining hardware from the control arm and press out the old joint using the manufacturer-specified press tool. If the ball joint is integral to the lower control arm (typical on 2024 Model S forged arms): remove the inner control arm pivot bolts at the subframe and remove the entire arm. Note bolt orientation and any cam/eccentric washers for alignment.
   ⚠Mark the position of any alignment cam bolts before removal so a baseline can be restored. A full alignment is still required afterward.
9. 9

   Install new ball joint / control arm
   Install the new ball joint (pressed in to the manufacturer's spec) or new control arm. Hand-thread the inner pivot bolts but DO NOT final-torque yet — these must be torqued with the vehicle at ride height. Ensure the boot is seated and undamaged.
10. 10

    Reconnect ball joint to steering knuckle
    Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the next castellation with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice. If the design uses a pinch bolt instead of a castle nut, install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to specification.
    ⚠Use the correct torque spec for your specific fastener style — castle-nut ball joints torque differently than pinch-bolt designs. Verify which your build uses.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    If disconnected, reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while tightening the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Snug in a star pattern. Final torque will be done with the vehicle on the ground.

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires on ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment rack).
2. With suspension loaded, final-torque the inner control arm pivot bolts to specification. This prevents premature bushing failure.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk. Close the frunk.
5. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle on a turn plate or with wheels free, then re-check that the cotter pin is intact and the boot is seated.
6. Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately — do not drive extended distances on un-aligned suspension.

Verification

• Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen after 12V reconnect (expect a brief 'systems initializing' period; on Performance/Plaid air suspension trims, allow the system to self-level).
• Visually verify the new cotter pin is installed and bent, the boot is intact and seated, and no fasteners were missed.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area listening for clunks over bumps, then at 30–45 mph checking for steering pull or vibration.
• Have a 4-wheel alignment performed and retain the printout — Tesla service centers and many indie alignment shops have the 2024 Model S specs.
• Re-check inner control arm bolt torque after 100–200 miles of driving — aluminum suspension components can settle.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is also a good time to inspect the cabin air filter (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years, or 3 years for HEPA-equipped Model S) and verify the brake fluid service interval (every 2 years per Tesla).

More procedures for this vehicle