Replacement of an upper ball joint on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. On this generation, the upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm assembly — the ball joint is not serviced separately, so the entire upper control arm is replaced.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (includes upper ball joint) — manufacturer-specified part for 2024 Model S LR AWD × 1 — OEM Tesla Model S 2024 upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — New single-use pinch bolt per OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on Plaid) low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model S LR, the 12V battery is in the front trunk under the nose cowl panel — remove the cowl trim, then disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V (Jack Mode requires the vehicle awake). Alternatively, place into Jack Mode and complete the lift, then disconnect 12V.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the factory jack points using approved puck adapters and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Inspect the upper ball joint for play and confirm the failure before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and photograph suspension geometry
   Before disassembly, photograph the position of the upper control arm, any alignment shims/cams, and the orientation of the ball joint stud. This helps reassembly and gives the alignment tech a baseline.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes with access)
   If the upper ball joint and control arm bolts are obstructed by the sway bar end link on this side, remove the upper sway bar link nut. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and loosen the upper ball joint castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Discard it — a new cotter pin is required on reassembly. Loosen the castle nut but do not remove it fully yet; back it off until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stud threads. This protects the threads when separating the joint.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a critical suspension fastener.
4. 4

   Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Use a ball joint separator tool to break the taper between the upper ball joint stud and the steering knuckle. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and lift the knuckle off the stud. Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a bungee or stand — do not let it hang on the brake hose, ABS wire, or HV-adjacent wiring.
   ⚠Hanging the knuckle on the brake hose will damage it. Support the assembly.
5. 5

   Loosen the upper strut tower nuts (if removal of the control arm requires it)
   Depending on access, the upper control arm inner pivots on this generation may require the strut tower to be slightly loosened or the strut top to be unbolted to clear. If access permits leaving the strut intact, skip this step. If loosened, support the strut from below.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm inner pivot bolts
   Locate and remove the inner pivot bolts/nuts that secure the upper control arm to the body/subframe. Note the orientation of any eccentric alignment cams — mark them with a paint pen before loosening so the alignment is approximately preserved. Withdraw the upper control arm assembly from the vehicle.
   ℹ️Final torque on these bolts is done with vehicle weight on the wheels — leave them snug but not final-torqued at this stage.
7. 7

   Compare old and new control arm
   Lay the new upper control arm assembly next to the removed one. Verify bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, and overall geometry match. Confirm the new ball joint stud is clean, dry, and undamaged.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm
   Position the new upper control arm into the chassis pivots. Install the inner pivot bolts hand-tight, ensuring any alignment cams are returned to the marked position. Do NOT final-torque yet.
9. 9

   Reconnect the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle
   Lower the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud, ensuring the taper seats fully. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (never loosening) only as far as needed to align the next slot with the stud's cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over.
   ⚠️Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Only tighten further within the allowable torque window.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install new pinch bolt (if the knuckle uses one for the upper joint)
    If this Model S configuration uses a pinch bolt at the upper joint or any disturbed steering joint, install a NEW single-use pinch bolt and torque to specification. Do not reuse the original.
    Torque spec

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reattach sway bar end link and strut (if disturbed)
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the shaft with an Allen key. Torque to specification. If the strut tower nuts were loosened, retorque them.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
2. Lower the vehicle so its full weight rests on the wheels (tires on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment rack).
3. With weight on the wheels, final-torque the upper control arm inner pivot bolts to specification — this prevents pre-loading the bushings at incorrect ride height.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative). Reinstall the frunk nose cowl trim.
5. If air suspension equipped, exit Jack Mode through the touchscreen and allow the system to self-level.
6. Wake the vehicle and allow ABS/ESC/driver-assist sensors to recalibrate by driving slowly in a safe area.
7. Take the vehicle to a Tesla-capable alignment rack for a four-wheel alignment — this is mandatory after upper control arm work.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero perceptible play at the upper ball joint.
• Visually confirm the new cotter pin is installed and bent over on the ball joint castle nut.
• Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen related to suspension, ABS, or stability control after a short test drive.
• Listen for clunks over bumps and at low-speed steering lock-to-lock — none should be present.
• Confirm the post-repair four-wheel alignment is within Tesla specification for camber, caster, and toe.
• Re-torque check after the first 100–200 miles is recommended on critical suspension fasteners.
• Note: While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is a good opportunity to verify Tesla service intervals — brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years, or 3 years for HEPA), and tire rotation (every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle