Replacement of upper and lower front control arm ball joints on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. On this generation, ball joints are integral to the forged aluminum control arms, so the procedure typically involves replacing the affected control arm assemblies rather than pressing individual joints.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (ball joint integral) — manufacturer-specified × 2 — Tesla Model S 2024 front upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Lower control arm assembly (ball joint integral) — manufacturer-specified × 2 — Tesla Model S 2024 front lower control arm — verify by VIN
• New cotter pins for ball joint castle nuts × 4 — OEM cotter pin
• New steering knuckle pinch bolt × 2 — Single-use pinch bolt — OEM

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (Some 2021+ Plaid variants use a 16V lithium unit under the rear seat — verify by VIN.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enter Service Mode and disable the suspension / set Jack Mode before lifting.
7. Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points and support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
9. Remove front wheels and set aside on a soft surface (forged/painted wheels scratch easily).

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Before disassembly, visually inspect both upper and lower ball joints for play, torn boots, and corrosion. Photograph routing of brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, and any wiring harnesses attached to the upper control arm bracket — these vary by build and must be returned exactly to OEM routing.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   Hold the sway bar end link stud with an Allen key while loosening the upper nut. Disconnect the link from the lower control arm to free suspension travel.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the lower control arm and unload suspension
   Place a floor jack under the lower control arm spring seat to support the suspension. On coil-spring trims this is loaded; on air suspension it is not, but still support the arm to prevent it from falling.
   ⚠On coil-spring cars the lower arm is under spring tension. Lower it slowly and keep hands clear.
4. 4

   Separate upper ball joint from knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin and back off the upper ball joint castle nut several turns but do not remove it yet (so the knuckle cannot drop suddenly). Separate the taper using a ball joint separator. Once free, remove the nut.
   ⚠Do not use a pickle fork that destroys the boot if you intend to reuse anything; on this job the joints are being replaced so a fork is acceptable.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Release the steering knuckle pinch bolt (if required for arm removal)
   If the chosen control arm design requires releasing the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt or the lower ball joint pinch bolt to free the knuckle, remove the single-use pinch bolt and discard it. A replacement is required on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Separate lower ball joint from knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut, back the nut off several turns, and break the taper with a separator. Support the knuckle with a bungee or stand — do NOT let it hang on the brake hose or ABS wiring.
   ⚠Do not stretch the brake hose or ABS sensor wiring. Hang the knuckle from the strut or coil with mechanic's wire.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove upper control arm
   Unbolt the upper control arm from its chassis-side mounts. Note shim/eccentric positions and mark them — caster/camber adjusters may be present. Remove the arm.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove lower control arm
   Unbolt the lower control arm from its chassis-side bushings. Note any alignment cams. Remove the arm from the vehicle.
   ⚠Lower arm is heavy aluminum — support it as you remove the final bolt.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new lower control arm
   Position the new lower control arm in its chassis brackets. Install bolts finger tight. Do NOT final-torque chassis-side control arm bolts yet — these must be torqued with the suspension at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels).
10. 10

    Install new upper control arm
    Position the new upper control arm and install chassis-side bolts finger tight. Re-index any alignment cams to the marks made during removal as a starting point.
11. 11

    Reconnect knuckle to ball joints
    Insert the upper and lower ball joint studs into the knuckle. Install new castle nuts. Torque the upper ball joint nut to spec, then if the slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never back off) until alignment is achieved. Repeat for the lower. Install NEW cotter pins.
    ⚠️Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot. Only tighten further within spec range.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Install new pinch bolt (if used)
    If a pinch bolt was removed in step 5, install a new single-use pinch bolt and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar link to the lower control arm. Hold the stud shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground so full vehicle weight is on the wheels.
3. With the suspension at ride height, final-torque all chassis-side control arm bolts (upper and lower) to specification. Torquing bushings while unloaded will pre-stress them and cause premature failure.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery and reinstall the frunk cowl panel.
5. If air suspension equipped: exit Service Mode / Jack Mode and allow the system to self-level.
6. Perform a four-wheel alignment — this is mandatory after any control arm or ball joint service on Model S.

Verification

• Confirm all CRITICAL fasteners (ball joint nuts, control arm bolts, pinch bolt, lug nuts) have been torqued and that new cotter pins are installed and bent over.
• Verify no brake hose, ABS wire, or wheel-speed sensor harness is twisted, stretched, or contacting the rotor or control arm.
• With wheels straight ahead, check steering wheel centering. Off-center steering after this repair indicates alignment is required (and is expected — perform alignment before release).
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps, then at highway speed checking for vibration, pulling, or steering wander.
• After 100–500 miles, re-inspect ball joint nuts and control arm bolts for any signs of movement or paint-mark separation.
• Note: while the vehicle is in the air, this is also a convenient time to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and to inspect the front drive unit gear oil if mileage is approaching the 12,500 mi initial service or 25,000–50,000 mi subsequent intervals.

More procedures for this vehicle