Back to 2024 Tesla Model S

2024 TESLA MODEL S

Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs89Labor363Torque3249Fluid8DTC557Battery0Maintenance0Recalls6
electrical

Blower Motor Control Module

for 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
8
Steps
9

Replace the HVAC blower motor control module (power module/resistor) on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. The module is located in the HVAC housing under the passenger-side dash and controls blower fan speed via PWM signal.

Warnings

⚠️Even on this low-voltage job, do not contact any orange cabling. The HV pack runs under the cabin floor — no orange wiring should be present at the dash, but if you encounter any, STOP.
The Model S uses an aluminum body and lightweight magnesium dash crossmember. Do not pry against structural members or strike trim with a hammer.
The control module contains static-sensitive electronics. Handle by the housing only and avoid touching connector pins.
Disconnect the 12V battery before unplugging the module. Hot-unplugging can damage the HVAC controller and set persistent fault codes that require service tool clearing.
ℹ️Glovebox and lower dash trim on the Model S use a mix of clips and concealed fasteners. Work slowly to avoid breaking tabs — replacement trim is expensive and back-ordered frequently.

Tools required

Trim panel removal tool set (plastic)Essential
Torque wrench (1-25 Nm range)Essential
T20 Torx driverEssential
T25 Torx driverEssential
10mm socket and ratchetEssential
Small flat-blade screwdriver (for connector locks)
Anti-static wrist strap
LED inspection light

Parts

  • Blower motor control module (HVAC power module) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified module for 2024 Model S — verify by VIN

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative terminal first) located under the nose cowl panel. If this vehicle is equipped with a 16V Li-ion auxiliary battery, follow that disconnect procedure instead.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Verify the new control module matches the outgoing unit by part number and connector style — running changes occur mid-model-year.
  7. Move the front passenger seat fully rearward and recline for working clearance under the dash.
  8. Have a clean, padded surface ready for the removed module (ESD-safe if available).

Procedure

  1. 1
    Confirm fault before disassembly
    Before removing trim, confirm the blower motor control module is actually at fault. Symptoms include: blower runs at one fixed speed only, blower will not run at all (with motor verified good), or HVAC fan-speed faults logged in the touchscreen Service menu. A failed blower motor itself can mimic module failure — verify by checking for PWM signal at the module output if possible.
  2. 2
    Remove passenger-side lower dash trim
    Open the glovebox and remove contents. Using a plastic trim tool, release the lower dash kick panel/knee bolster on the passenger side. The Model S uses concealed clips and one or two Torx fasteners — work the panel free without prying against the aluminum dash structure. Set trim aside on a soft surface.
    Do not yank the panel — a wiring harness or ambient light connector may be attached behind it. Disconnect any harness before fully removing.
  3. 3
    Remove glovebox assembly (if required for access)
    If the control module is not accessible behind the kick panel alone, remove the glovebox. Open the glovebox, remove the retaining fasteners along the upper and side edges, disconnect the glovebox light/latch harness, and lift the glovebox free. Note the position of any dampers.
  4. 4
    Locate the blower motor control module
    The blower motor control module mounts to the HVAC housing on the passenger side, typically adjacent to or just downstream of the blower motor itself. It will have a finned heat sink protruding into the airflow path and a 4–6 pin connector. Verify location against the replacement part before disconnecting anything.
  5. 5
    Disconnect the module electrical connector
    Confirm the 12V battery is disconnected. Release the connector lock tab (typically a slide-lock or squeeze-tab) and unplug the harness from the module. Inspect the connector pins for signs of heat damage, melted plastic, or corrosion — a damaged connector indicates the new module will likely fail again unless the connector is repaired.
    If pins show heat discoloration or melted housing, replace the connector pigtail before installing the new module — this is a known root-cause for repeat failures.
  6. 6
    Remove the module mounting fasteners
    Remove the two (typically) screws securing the control module to the HVAC housing. Support the module as the last fastener comes free so it does not fall into the dash cavity. Withdraw the module straight out — the heat sink fins extend into the air channel and will catch if angled.
    Torque spec
    Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Inspect the HVAC housing seal area
    Inspect the gasket/foam seal on the module flange and the mating surface on the HVAC housing. Air leaks here cause whistling and reduced blower output. If the gasket on the new module is missing or damaged, source a replacement before installation.
  8. 8
    Install the new control module
    Insert the new module into the HVAC housing, aligning the heat sink fins with the airflow channel. Ensure the gasket is seated evenly with no folded edges. Hand-thread both mounting fasteners before torquing to prevent cross-threading the plastic housing.
    Do not overtighten into the plastic HVAC housing — stripped bosses cannot be repaired without housing replacement, which requires major dash disassembly.
    Torque spec
    Module Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reconnect the harness
    Plug the harness connector into the new module until the lock fully engages — listen for the click. Verify the connector is fully seated by giving a light tug. Route the harness so it cannot contact moving parts or rest against the heat sink.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the glovebox assembly (if removed), reconnecting the glovebox light/latch harness. Torque any fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
  2. Reinstall the lower dash kick panel, reconnecting any harnesses before fully seating the panel. Press clips home one at a time.
  3. Verify no tools, fasteners, or trim clips remain in the footwell.
  4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery, positive terminal first, then negative.
  5. Torque the 12V battery terminal bolts.
  6. Close the frunk and any opened panels.

Verification

  • With the vehicle awake, open the touchscreen climate menu and cycle the fan through all speed settings from 1 to maximum. Blower speed should change smoothly and proportionally at every step — not jump between two fixed speeds.
  • Set Auto mode and request a large temperature delta (e.g., 60°F vs ambient) and confirm the blower ramps up automatically.
  • Listen for new whistling, buzzing, or air leaks around the module location at high fan speed — indicates poor gasket seal.
  • Check the touchscreen Service menu for any active or stored HVAC fault codes. Clear historical codes if able.
  • Take a short drive and confirm climate control behavior is stable; the module's PWM circuit can fail intermittently when heat-soaked, so verify after 10+ minutes of operation.
  • While the dash is accessible, this is a good opportunity to check the cabin air filter service interval — Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years (3 years if equipped with the HEPA bioweapon defense system).

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