Replace front brake pads on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD. This is a routine wear item, but the heavy curb weight (~4,800 lb) and instant torque mean pads should be inspected at every tire rotation.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (OEM or equivalent for Model S Long Range) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front pad set for 2024 Model S Long Range — verify by VIN
• Caliper hardware / anti-rattle clips (if supplied with pad kit) × 1 — Included with most OEM-equivalent pad kits
• Silicone brake grease (caliper slide pins) × 1 — High-temp silicone brake lubricant
• Threadlocker (medium strength, blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake via touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob (and any paired phone keys) away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disable Sentry Mode and Cabin Overheat Protection from the touchscreen or app to prevent the car from waking during service.
4. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or 16V Li-ion on Plaid) low-voltage battery — located under the nose cowl panel in the front trunk. Refer to the architecture notes for your VIN.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) before lifting — this disables air suspension self-leveling on Performance/Plaid trims and prevents the car from auto-adjusting ride height while on stands.
8. Loosen front lug nuts 1/2 turn while the wheels are still on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the factory-designated jack points using urethane Tesla pucks. Support on rated jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
10. Remove front wheels and set aside on a soft surface (forged/painted Tesla wheels scratch easily).

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect caliper, rotor, and hardware before disassembly
   Visually inspect the caliper, rotor surface, dust boots, and slide pin boots. Note pad thickness, uneven wear patterns, and any leaking fluid. Photograph the assembly so you have a reference for reinstallation orientation of clips and shims.
   ⚠If any orange cable is visible near the wheel well, STOP. The Model S front does not normally route HV cabling here, but if present do not proceed.
2. 2

   Retract the caliper piston
   Open the brake fluid reservoir cap in the frunk briefly to relieve pressure, then close it loosely. Using a piston compression tool or large C-clamp braced against an old pad, slowly press the piston back into the caliper bore to make room for new, thicker pads. Watch the reservoir level — do not let it overflow.
   ⚠Never push the piston back without opening the reservoir — back-pressure can damage the ABS/iBooster module on Model S.
3. 3

   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the bracket. Hold the slide pin with a wrench if it spins. Set hardware aside in order — do not mix front and rear, left and right.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Lift caliper off and support it
   Slide the caliper off the rotor and bracket. Support it with a wire hook or bungee from the suspension — DO NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Inspect the hose for cracking, swelling, or chafing while it is accessible.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Damaged hoses on a 4,800 lb EV are a serious safety risk.
5. 5

   Remove old pads and hardware
   Remove the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket. Note the location of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or wear-sensor wiring (if equipped). Remove the abutment clips from the bracket ears.
6. 6

   Clean and inspect the caliper bracket and slide pins
   Pull the slide pins from the bracket. Wipe clean and inspect for pitting, corrosion, or torn boots. Clean the bracket abutment surfaces with a wire brush — do not gouge the aluminum. Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the slide pins and reinstall, working them in and out to verify free movement.
   ⚠Seized slide pins are a common cause of uneven pad wear on Teslas due to heavy regen reliance — replace boots/pins if movement is not smooth.
7. 7

   Install new abutment clips and pads
   Install the new abutment/anti-rattle clips into the bracket ears (clean metal-to-metal contact). Install the new pads — friction material facing the rotor — ensuring any wear-sensor or directional pad is on the correct side per the manufacturer's instructions. Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the pad backing-plate contact points (clip ears and piston face), NOT on the friction surface.
8. 8

   Reinstall caliper and torque slide pin bolts
   Lower the caliper over the new pads onto the bracket. Hand-thread both slide pin bolts to confirm clean engagement, then torque to specification. Apply silicone brake grease to the pin shafts as noted in the verified torque data.
   ⚠Cross-threading aluminum-bracketed hardware is easy — always start by hand.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Repeat on opposite side
   Repeat steps 1 through 8 on the other front wheel. Brake pads must always be replaced as an axle set.
10. 10

    Pump the brake pedal to seat the pistons
    With the 12V battery still disconnected, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. The first several presses will feel soft as the pistons travel out to contact the new pads. Do not skip this step — the car will roll without resistance otherwise.
    ⚠️Failing to seat the pistons before driving will result in NO BRAKES on the first pedal application.
11. 11

    Top off brake fluid and seal reservoir
    Check the brake fluid reservoir in the frunk. Top off to the MAX line with the correct DOT specification for this VIN (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 against the cap marking — newer Model S typically uses DOT 4). Seal the cap fully.
    ⚠Do not mix DOT 3 and DOT 4 unless explicitly compatible per the cap label. Never use DOT 5 (silicone) — it is incompatible with Tesla brake systems.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any torque.
2. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk. Reinstall the nose cowl panel.
5. Close the frunk and verify the latch engages fully.
6. Power up the vehicle. Disable Jack Mode. Allow the air suspension (if equipped) to self-level.

Verification

• Before driving: with foot on brake, confirm a firm pedal with no excessive travel.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake system, ABS, or traction control alerts. The car may briefly display calibration messages after 12V reconnection — these should clear after a short drive.
• Perform a low-speed (5–10 mph) brake test in a safe area before going on the road. Confirm the car tracks straight under braking with no pulling.
• Bed-in the new pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure — typically 6–10 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph without coming to a complete stop, allowing cooling between. Note: Tesla's regen will fight you during bed-in; reduce regen to 'Low' (where available) or use Hold mode appropriately during this process.
• After 50–100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If the fluid in the reservoir looked dark or the service history is unknown, schedule a fluid flush.
• Reminder: Rotate tires every ~6,250 miles on this vehicle — heavy curb weight and instant torque wear tires faster than ICE equivalents.

More procedures for this vehicle