Rebuild the front brake calipers on a 2024 Tesla Model S Long Range AWD by disassembling each caliper, replacing seals and dust boots, honing/cleaning the bore, and reinstalling with fresh DOT 3 fluid. This is a wear-related service typically prompted by sticking pistons, fluid weeping, or torn boots.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front caliper rebuild/seal kit (piston seal, dust boot, bleeder cap) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified front caliper seal kit for 2024 Model S
• Caliper slide pin boots (if included separately) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified slide pin boot kit
• Replacement caliper bracket bolts (one-time-use if specified) × 4 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if marked single-use
• Silicone brake grease for slide pins × 1 — Generic silicone caliper grease
• Assembly lube / clean DOT 3 brake fluid for piston/seal install × 1 — DOT 3 (verify by VIN — some newer Model S use DOT 4)
• Threadlocker (medium strength) for bracket bolts × 1 — Blue medium-strength threadlocker

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify spec by VIN — may be DOT 4 on newer build) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this vehicle has been retrofitted or is a Plaid variant with a 16V Li-ion unit under the rear seat, disconnect that instead.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Service Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if you want to disable air suspension self-leveling and auto-presenting doors. (On a coil-sprung Long Range this is less critical, but recommended.)
7. Verify tire size for this trim (19", 21", or 22") and have proper lug socket on hand.
8. Confirm brake fluid spec on the master cylinder reservoir cap (DOT 3 vs DOT 4) before opening any hydraulic line.
9. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
10. Lift the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved jacking points with a hockey-puck style pad to protect the aluminum pinch welds. Support on jack stands.
11. Remove both front wheels.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the caliper, bracket, brake hose routing, and pad wear sensor (if present) before disassembly. Note any fluid weeping, torn boots, or uneven pad wear — these are the typical reasons for rebuild on a 2024 Model S.
2. 2

   Clamp the brake hose
   Apply a brake hose clamp to the rubber section of the front brake hose to minimize fluid loss from the master cylinder reservoir during caliper removal. Do NOT clamp the hard line.
   ⚠Allowing the reservoir to run dry will introduce air into the ABS/iBooster module and require a full scan-tool-assisted bleed.
3. 3

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Place a catch pan under the caliper. Loosen the banjo bolt or hydraulic fitting at the caliper body. Cap the hose immediately to prevent contamination. Discard sealing washers (replace on reassembly).
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide/guide bolts that secure the caliper body to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the pads and bracket. Remove the brake pads and any anti-rattle hardware, noting orientation.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket (optional, recommended for full rebuild)
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are torqued high and may have factory threadlocker — use a breaker bar. Inspect threads. If bolts are marked single-use in the service manual, replace them.
   ⚠Do not pry against the aluminum knuckle or wheel speed sensor wiring.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Extract piston(s)
   With the caliper off the vehicle and a block of wood inside the caliper to catch the piston, use low-pressure compressed air through the fluid inlet port to push the piston(s) out. Keep fingers clear. If the piston is seized, do not hammer — replace the caliper.
   ⚠️An ejecting piston can amputate a fingertip. Use a wood block and keep hands clear of the bore.
7. 7

   Remove old seals and inspect bore
   Using a non-metallic pick, remove the dust boot and the square-cut piston seal from the bore groove. Clean the bore and piston with brake parts cleaner. Inspect the bore: light staining is acceptable; pitting, scoring, or corrosion that catches a fingernail means the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt.
8. 8

   Install new seals
   Lubricate the new piston seal with clean brake fluid and seat it fully into the bore groove with no twists. Install the new dust boot per the kit instructions (some seat into the caliper first, others onto the piston first).
9. 9

   Reinstall piston
   Coat the piston with clean brake fluid. Press the piston squarely into the bore by hand or with even thumb pressure — do not cock it. Seat the dust boot retaining ring into its groove. Verify the piston moves smoothly in and out.
10. 10

    Service slide pins
    Remove slide pins from the caliper bracket, clean thoroughly, inspect for pitting or corrosion, and replace boots if torn. Apply fresh silicone brake grease (NOT petroleum-based) and reinstall. Pins should slide freely with no binding.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. If the bracket was removed, apply medium-strength threadlocker to the bracket bolts and torque to the Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front specification (120 Nm / 88 lb-ft).
2. Install anti-rattle hardware and brake pads into the bracket in original orientation.
3. Install caliper over the pads onto the bracket and torque the caliper guide/slide bolts to the Caliper Bolts specification (88 Nm / 65 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper using NEW sealing washers. Torque the banjo/hydraulic fitting to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Remove the brake hose clamp.
6. Top up the master cylinder reservoir with the correct brake fluid spec (DOT 3 per database; verify reservoir cap).
7. Bleed the caliper at the bleeder screw using vacuum or two-person pedal bleed until clean, bubble-free fluid emerges. Torque bleeder screw to the Bleeder Screw specification (10 Nm / 7 lb-ft) — do not overtighten.
8. Repeat the entire procedure on the opposite front caliper.
9. If brake fluid is older than 2 years, perform a full 4-corner flush in the order specified by the service manual (this typically requires Service Mode or scan-tool actuation of the iBooster).
10. Reinstall front wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand.
11. Lower vehicle to the ground.
12. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the Wheel Lug Nuts specification (140 Nm / 103 lb-ft).
13. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
14. Close frunk and exit Service Mode if it was engaged.

Verification

• With the vehicle still stationary and the 12V reconnected, press the brake pedal repeatedly. The pedal must build firm resistance within 2-3 strokes. A soft or sinking pedal indicates air in the system — re-bleed.
• Check for any fluid weeping at the banjo fitting, bleeder screw, and around the piston dust boot.
• Confirm the master cylinder reservoir is at the MAX line.
• Power on the vehicle and check the touchscreen for any ABS, iBooster, or brake-related fault messages. Clear and re-test if needed.
• Drive at low speed (under 15 mph) in an open area and perform several gentle stops to confirm even braking with no pull. Tesla regen will mask weak friction braking — disable regen via Hold/Roll setting briefly during this test if possible, or use the brake pedal firmly above regen threshold.
• Bed in the new pad/seal interface: 8–10 moderate stops from 35 to 5 mph, then a 5-minute cooldown drive without coming to a complete stop, to seat the seals and transfer pad material evenly.
• After 50 miles, recheck caliper bolt torque, fluid level, and inspect for leaks.
• Note for the owner: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. Log this service date so the next interval is tracked.

More procedures for this vehicle