Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

Rebuild the rear brake calipers on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD by disassembling the caliper, replacing seals and dust boots, and reinstalling with fresh brake fluid. Note that the rear calipers also house the integrated electric parking brake (EPB) actuator, which complicates this job significantly versus a typical caliper rebuild.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 2 — OEM or OE-equivalent rebuild kit for 2024 Model S rear caliper
• Caliper slide pin boots (if not in rebuild kit) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified
• Brake pads (recommended to replace if rebuilding) × 1 — OEM rear brake pad set for 2024 Model S
• Crush washers for brake hose banjo (if applicable) × 4 — Manufacturer-specified

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (verify exact spec by VIN — newer Model S may require DOT 4) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Before disconnecting 12V power: enter Tesla service mode via the touchscreen and command the rear EPB calipers to the 'service / open' position. This retracts the EPB actuator screw and allows piston removal. Skipping this step will destroy the caliper.
3. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
4. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (under the nose cowl panel). Verify by attempting to wake the vehicle — touchscreen should remain off.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated lift points with proper pucks, and support on jack stands.
9. Remove rear wheels and set aside on the soft side to protect the finish.
10. Inspect brake fluid reservoir level in the frunk; siphon out roughly half to prevent overflow when pistons are pushed back.

Procedure

1. 1

   Verify EPB is in service position
   Confirm via service mode that the rear EPB actuators have been retracted. If you cannot enter service mode or the EPB will not retract, STOP — do not attempt mechanical override of the EPB on the rear caliper.
   ⚠️Forcing the piston with the EPB engaged will strip the internal spindle and require full caliper replacement.
2. 2

   Disconnect EPB motor harness
   Locate the EPB actuator electrical connector on the back of the rear caliper. Release the connector lock and unplug. Tuck the harness aside so it is not strained when the caliper is removed.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Unscrew the two caliper slide pin bolts (or guide bolts) holding the caliper body to the bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a wire hanger — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect brake hose
   Place a drain pan under the caliper. Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper (banjo bolt or threaded fitting depending on configuration). Cap the hose immediately to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Discard crush washers if banjo-style.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drip — protect the rotor, suspension components, and any painted surfaces.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket (optional, for full rebuild access)
   If replacing slide pins or accessing the bracket abutment clips, remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts from the knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Extract piston from caliper
   With the caliper on a clean bench, place a wood block in the caliper jaw, then use low-pressure compressed air through the brake hose port to pop the piston out. Keep fingers clear. For EPB rear calipers, the piston typically threads off the actuator spindle once retracted — confirm by inspection before applying air.
   ⚠️Never place fingers between the piston and caliper body — air pressure can eject the piston with crushing force.
7. 7

   Remove old seals and clean caliper
   Using a non-metallic seal pick, remove the dust boot and piston square-cut seal from the caliper bore. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion — if present, the caliper must be replaced rather than rebuilt. Clean the bore and piston with fresh brake fluid or brake-safe solvent. Do NOT use petroleum solvents.
8. 8

   Install new seals and reassemble piston
   Lubricate new piston seal and dust boot with clean brake fluid. Install the square-cut seal in the bore groove, then the dust boot. Carefully press the piston back into the bore by hand — for EPB calipers, thread the piston back onto the actuator spindle by rotating clockwise (typical) until fully bottomed. Confirm dust boot is fully seated in both grooves.
   ⚠Use only fresh brake fluid or manufacturer-approved caliper lube on internal seals. Silicone grease belongs only on slide pins and contact points, not piston seals.
9. 9

   Service slide pins
   Clean slide pins, inspect for corrosion or scoring, and replace boots if torn. Apply silicone brake grease to pins and reinstall into the bracket bores.
10. 10

    Repeat for opposite rear caliper
    Follow steps 2–9 on the other rear caliper. Both rears should be rebuilt as a pair to maintain even braking performance.

Reassembly

1. If removed, reinstall the caliper bracket to the knuckle and torque to specification (Bracket Bolts: 102 Nm / 75 lb-ft). Apply threadlocker if required by the OEM procedure.
2. Install brake pads with new abutment clips and anti-rattle hardware as needed. Apply silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points only — never on the friction surface.
3. Mount the rebuilt caliper over the rotor and pads. Install slide pin bolts and torque to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the brake hose with NEW crush washers (if banjo style). Torque the banjo/fitting to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reconnect the EPB actuator electrical connector and verify it locks fully.
6. Bleed the brake system: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (typically right rear), then left rear, then right front, then left front. Use fresh DOT 3 (verify by VIN) and continue until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) — do not overtighten.
7. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line.
8. Reinstall rear wheels. Hand-snug lug nuts, lower the vehicle, then torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
9. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall the nose cowl panel.
10. Wake the vehicle, exit service mode, and command the EPB to cycle (apply / release) several times via the touchscreen to recalibrate.

Verification

• Confirm no brake fluid leaks at the caliper, hose fitting, or bleeder after pumping the pedal 20+ times.
• Brake pedal should be firm with normal travel — a soft or sinking pedal indicates air remaining in the system; re-bleed.
• On the touchscreen, verify no ABS, EPB, or brake system alerts are present. Cycle the EPB on and off — it should engage and release with a clean clunk and no fault.
• Perform a low-speed road test (5–10 mph) in a safe area with light brake applications before normal driving. Check for pull, vibration, or dragging.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck wheel lug torque and inspect caliper for any seepage.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — log this service date and plan the next flush accordingly.

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