Replace the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. On this generation, Tesla does not service the bushing separately — the lower control arm is replaced as a complete assembly with integrated bushings.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (bushings integrated, OEM) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front lower control arm for 2024 Model S LR AWD — verify by VIN
• Ball Joint Castle Nut Cotter Pin × 1 — OEM cotter pin — single use
• Control Arm Pivot Bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Verify single-use status against Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery located in the front trunk (frunk) under the nose cowl panel. (If this vehicle is equipped with a 16V Li-ion auxiliary, follow Tesla's documented disconnect order for that unit.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. If equipped with air suspension, enable Jack Mode from the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Identify Tesla-approved lift points along the rocker pinch welds — use puck adapters. Never lift on the battery case.
9. Raise the vehicle, support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight, and chock the rear wheels.
10. Have the replacement control arm assembly, new cotter pin, and (if required) new pivot bolts on hand before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel
   Fully remove the front wheel lug nuts and set the wheel aside. Inspect the hub face and brake rotor for any signs of damage that may have caused the bushing complaint.
2. 2

   Remove front aero underbody panel
   Remove the plastic fasteners and Torx screws securing the front underbody aero panel beneath the affected corner. Set the panel aside carefully — these panels are aerodynamically critical to range and should not be bent.
   ⚠Note fastener locations — Tesla underbody panels use a mix of plastic clips and threaded fasteners; reusing the wrong fastener type can cause panel loss at highway speed.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   Locate the sway bar end link where it connects to the lower control arm. Hold the stud with an Allen key in the center hex while loosening the nut with a wrench. Separate the link from the control arm and support it out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support lower control arm
   Place a jack with a wide pad under the lower control arm to support it. Apply just enough pressure to take the spring/strut load — this is critical on coil-spring trims and still recommended on air suspension to keep the knuckle controlled during ball joint separation.
   ⚠️On coil-spring trims, the lower control arm holds spring preload via the strut assembly. Inadequate support can cause the knuckle to drop violently when the ball joint is freed.
5. 5

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Using a press-style ball joint separator (preferred — pickle forks can damage the boot), separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Suspend the knuckle with a bungee or strap so the wheel speed sensor harness, brake hose, and (if equipped) brake wear sensor are not stressed.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring — both are common damage points.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Mark and remove inner control arm pivot bolts
   Mark the orientation of the inner pivot bolts and any cam/eccentric washers (if present) with a paint pen so alignment is preserved as a starting point. Remove the inner control arm pivot bolts attaching the arm to the front subframe. Lower the arm out of the vehicle.
   ℹ️A four-wheel alignment is required after this job regardless of how carefully the cams are marked.
7. 7

   Compare old and new control arm
   On 2024 Model S, the lower bushing is integrated into the control arm casting/forging and is not serviced separately at the OEM level. Compare the old and new arms side by side: confirm ball joint orientation, bushing sleeve type, and any sensor brackets match. Verify left/right specificity.
   ⚠Do not attempt to press a generic bushing into the OEM arm unless using a documented manufacturer-specified service kit — the arm geometry depends on bushing crush specs.
8. 8

   Install new control arm — finger tight only
   Position the new lower control arm into the subframe pockets. Install the inner pivot bolts (use new bolts if specified single-use by Tesla) hand-tight only. Do NOT final-torque yet — bushings must be clamped at ride height. Reinstall any cam/eccentric washers in the marked orientation.
9. 9

   Reattach ball joint to knuckle
   Raise the knuckle back onto the ball joint stud. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the slot does not align with the stud's cross-hole at spec torque, tighten further (never loosen) to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per OEM practice.
   ⚠️Always replace the ball joint cotter pin with a new one. Reusing a cotter pin can lead to nut backout and loss of steering control.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link to the control arm. Hold the stud's internal hex with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the front wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts, then lower the vehicle so the full curb weight is on the suspension. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque inner control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the full vehicle weight on the wheels and the suspension at static ride height, final-torque the inner control arm pivot bolts to specification. This step is critical: torquing while the arm hangs will pre-load the bushings in the wrong rotational position and cause early failure and noise.
    ⚠If lift access prevents reaching the bolts at ride height, use drive-on ramps or a scissor lift that supports under the wheels rather than the subframe.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front underbody aero panel with all original fasteners — missing fasteners reduce range and can cause panel loss at highway speed.
2. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery in the frunk and reinstall the nose cowl panel.
3. If air suspension equipped: exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the system to self-level.
4. Power the vehicle on and confirm no chassis or suspension warnings appear on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Perform a 4-wheel alignment — mandatory after any control arm replacement on Model S; toe and camber will be out of spec even with cam bolts marked.
• Test drive at low speed first: check for steering pull, clunks over bumps, and centered steering wheel.
• After ~50 miles, re-inspect ball joint cotter pin and visually check pivot bolts for movement / paint mark shift.
• Confirm no Vehicle Dynamics or chassis fault messages on the touchscreen.
• Note in service records: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years and cabin air filter every 2 years (3 years for HEPA-equipped) — if either is due, address while the vehicle is already in the shop.

More procedures for this vehicle