Replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2024 Model S Long Range AWD. On this platform, Tesla does not service the bushing as a separate component — the upper control arm assembly is replaced as a unit, since pressing a new bushing into the aluminum arm risks deforming the housing.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Upper Control Arm Assembly (Tesla Model S 2024, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla front upper control arm — verify left/right by VIN
• Ball joint castle nut and new cotter pin × 1 — OEM specification
• Control arm pivot bolts (single-use if specified by Tesla) × 2 — OEM specification — replace if Tesla lists as torque-to-yield

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal located under the nose cowl panel (refer to architecture notes — some 2021+ Plaid use a 16V Li-ion battery under the rear seat).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm trim: if vehicle has air suspension, enter Service Mode and select Suspension → Transport / Jack Mode to lock height and depressurize as required.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved lift pads at the designated front lift points; support on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Verify side (LH or RH) — order the correct side-specific upper control arm before beginning.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and inspect
   Photograph the upper control arm, ball joint orientation, and any alignment shims or markings before disassembly. Inspect the lower ball joint, tie rod, and strut for additional wear that should be addressed concurrently.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If access requires it, disconnect the front sway bar end link from the strut or arm. Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the knuckle
   Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the steering knuckle / lower control arm to support the suspension once the upper ball joint is released. Do not lift the vehicle off its stands — only support the knuckle.
   ⚠An unsupported knuckle will swing outward when the ball joint is released and can damage the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, or half-shaft boot.
4. 4

   Release the upper ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin and loosen the upper ball joint castle nut. Back the nut off until it is flush with the top of the threads but do not fully remove it. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper. Once free, remove the nut and lift the upper arm off the knuckle stud.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly. Use the ball joint separator tool — pickle forks will tear the boot but are acceptable if the ball joint is being replaced as part of the arm assembly.
5. 5

   Mark and remove inboard pivot bolts
   Mark the position of the upper control arm pivot bolts and any cam/eccentric washers if present. Support the arm and remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) attaching the upper control arm to the body/strut tower frame.
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm
   Maneuver the upper control arm out of the chassis. Note the orientation for reinstallation. Inspect the bushing pocket in the body — if the aluminum mounting ear is cracked or elongated, STOP and consult a body shop; aluminum subframe damage cannot be repaired in a typical service bay.
7. 7

   Install the new upper control arm assembly
   Position the new upper control arm. Hand-thread the inboard pivot bolts; do not torque yet. Seat the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install a NEW castle nut hand-tight.
8. 8

   Torque the ball joint nut and install new cotter pin
   Torque the upper ball joint castle nut to specification, then advance (never back off) the nut to the next slot to align the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM practice.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect sway bar end link
   If disconnected, reattach the sway bar end link, holding the ball stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and lower the vehicle
    Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight rests on the wheels — this is required before final torquing of the control arm pivot bolts to set the bushing at neutral preload.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels (use drive-on ramps or a level shop floor), torque the upper control arm inboard pivot bolts to specification. Torquing while suspension is hanging will pre-load the bushing in droop and cause premature failure.
    ⚠This torque MUST be applied with the suspension loaded — not while hanging. This is a critical bushing-life step on Tesla aluminum suspensions.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque lug nuts in star pattern
    Torque lug nuts in a cross/star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery negative terminal.
2. Close the frunk and verify it latches fully.
3. If the vehicle is air-suspension equipped, exit Service Mode / Jack Mode so the system can re-pressurize and self-level.
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and verify no clunks or binding.

Verification

• Perform a 4-wheel alignment on a Tesla-spec rack. Front upper arm replacement on Model S typically does not change camber/caster (non-adjustable from the factory), but toe must be verified and reset.
• Test drive at 25–60 mph. Listen for clunks over expansion joints and confirm no steering pull or off-center steering wheel.
• After 100 mi, re-check the upper control arm pivot bolts and ball joint cotter pin for any movement or backing off.
• Check the Tesla touchscreen for any new suspension or chassis fault messages (especially relevant on air-suspension trims, though this vehicle is coil-sprung Long Range).
• While the vehicle is in the air, take the opportunity to verify cabin air filter age (Tesla recommends every 2 years, or 3 years on HEPA-equipped Model S) and brake fluid service interval (every 2 years) — both are commonly overlooked on Teslas due to the 'no scheduled maintenance' marketing claim.

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